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What should my mpg be?

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  #31  
Old 07-11-2011, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 89broncoll
Greg my truck is a daily driver.like I said I'll start with all my intercooler boots I have looked at them and there looks like there leaking.I see dirt and grime on them from like an oil leak
Seepage around the intercooler boots is normal so the only real way to check is with a leak detector. However, R&R for a good cleaning is quite alright. We all like a clean engine.

It's more likely that one or both of your up-pipes may be leaking and that is hurting your mileage. Look for soot on the pipes themselves where they enter the collector at the back of the turbo. Check the firewall pad also, since it's shiny and reflective it will be easy to see any soot stains.

Another commonly overlooked item are the bolts for the compressor housing. That will hurt your mileage as well. Check out page 7 on the attached file and you will see the bolts I am talking about. I have seen several trucks with missing bolts. My wife's truck was missing ALL 4 bolts when I first brought it home! There was black soot everywhere...
(Tip: If you do find that you are missing a bolt or two....use a small pipe cleaning brush and some penetrating spray to clean out the threads in the turbo housing. The new bolts have special threads and take some effort to turn so you need to make sure the threads are clean before screwing in the replacement bolts.)

I keep telling myself that I am going to make a leak detector for the exhaust side of the system but I haven't gotten round to doing it yet. If I do, then I'll post a write up with the necessary parts. It would be a good way to check for leaking up-pipes and turbo bolts...
 
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  #32  
Old 07-11-2011, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by gchavez
I am one of those people that's not sold on the in-tank mods as being 100% required. I have two personal 7.3 trucks and about 18 at work...all with the original pre-pump fuel system intact. As far as I know, none of our trucks have had any problem with air in fuel. I've checked the return on both of my personal trucks (prior to installing the FRx system) and there wasn't any noticeable air in the fuel. I suspect the air in fuel issue occurs if the in-tank pickup gets clogged. Then it's possible for the special fuel line fitting ahead of the pump to allow air into the system. If there isn't any problem in the tank, then there shouldn't be any air in the system. Just one of my theories though...

It if were me, I'd spend the money on a fuel pressure gauge before looking for problems in the tank. Exception being if your truck hasn't been used on a regular basis and has been known to sit for extended periods of time between uses. If so, then dropping the tank to check the screens is probably a good idea.
Greg, I'm not saying required....but...I have seen many pickups clogged and I have seen others where there was air being put into the fuel system upstream from the pickup and being dumped at the intake foot. Just seems like an easy to do maintenance/mod AND inexpensive. Good point on checking the up-pipes...
 
  #33  
Old 07-11-2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nlemerise
Greg, I'm not saying required....but...I have seen many pickups clogged and I have seen others where there was air being put into the fuel system upstream from the pickup and being dumped at the intake foot. Just seems like an easy to do maintenance/mod AND inexpensive. Good point on checking the up-pipes...
I agree Neal, clogged screens in the mixing chamber is a known issue...just not sure how common it is(as a percentage). Is dropping the tank and performing the in-tank mods pretty easy? I've never done it myself so I don't really know. I do have two in-tank kits in my garage but haven't done the mod yet because I don't appear to be having any fuel flow issues (knock on wood...). The kits I purchased were about $45 each but I've also seen them on other sites for around $150 as well. They look to have the same basic parts so I'm not too sure what the price difference is all about.

In case you are curious...I was told the reason for the mixing chamber was to help minimize possible fuel gelling in cold weather. Not too sure how effective that system is though....seems like there would be a better way to solve that problem such as a regulated return like IH has. ???
 
  #34  
Old 07-11-2011, 06:30 PM
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How long should my pecker be?

Like the mpg question, there are many correct answers.
 
  #35  
Old 07-11-2011, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by gchavez
I agree Neal, clogged screens in the mixing chamber is a known issue...just not sure how common it is(as a percentage). Is dropping the tank and performing the in-tank mods pretty easy? I've never done it myself so I don't really know. I do have two in-tank kits in my garage but haven't done the mod yet because I don't appear to be having any fuel flow issues (knock on wood...). The kits I purchased were about $45 each but I've also seen them on other sites for around $150 as well. They look to have the same basic parts so I'm not too sure what the price difference is all about.

In case you are curious...I was told the reason for the mixing chamber was to help minimize possible fuel gelling in cold weather. Not too sure how effective that system is though....seems like there would be a better way to solve that problem such as a regulated return like IH has. ???
I made up my own kit for the tank mods and it was cheap...some stainless tubing and a few clamps if I remember correctly. The tank is easy to do, just run the tank down near empty, siphon or pump out the rest, remove the fill tube, and undo the straps holding it in place. I just rolled a jack with a piece of plywood under it and loosened the straps.
 
  #36  
Old 07-11-2011, 06:43 PM
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my truck gets 15 mpg know matter what ive drove no higher then 55mph for tanks same 60 same 70 same its weird
 
  #37  
Old 07-11-2011, 08:41 PM
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Ok Everyone thanks I'll keep ya posted.
 
  #38  
Old 07-12-2011, 02:59 AM
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iv got a 2002 4x4 with a 2001 motor runnin on 265/75/16's it has some exaust dunn 3 1/2 in to magnaflow muffler then 4in out no tuner no more mods just keeping my RPM'S below 2000 and i get 16 in town babying it and 18-20 on hwy driving 70, 175,000 miles daily driver
 

Last edited by slim613; 07-12-2011 at 04:12 AM. Reason: adding 4x4, miles
  #39  
Old 07-12-2011, 06:21 AM
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Dang that's what I try to do is keep it below 2000 which is difficult
 
  #40  
Old 07-12-2011, 03:05 PM
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yes sir it is
 
  #41  
Old 07-12-2011, 11:48 PM
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I get 14 mpg mixed city/hwy and 12 mpg towing 6k.
 
  #42  
Old 07-13-2011, 01:14 AM
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mines about 16 mix and i havent pulled my trailer since i got my newer truck but i will post and let yall know wat im getting towing its a aluminum 25ft horse trailer i haul fully loaded with tires im sypost to have my cdl with it i just aint got around too it being a student in diesel mechenic
 
  #43  
Old 07-14-2011, 08:31 AM
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My tire size is like 30575r16 I believe. What's the best chip or tune producer for best economy ?
 
  #44  
Old 07-14-2011, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 89broncoll
My tire size is like 30575r16 I believe. What's the best chip or tune producer for best economy ?
If you are going with a tuner, there are a few good ones and a few that are....junk. One of the best is DP-Tuner (a site sponsor). If it was me, I'd wait on the tuner and do the suggestions given earlier...make sure the truck is running as well as it can and get all the maintenance up-to-date.
 
  #45  
Old 07-14-2011, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by slim613
mines about 16 mix and i havent pulled my trailer since i got my newer truck but i will post and let yall know wat im getting towing its a aluminum 25ft horse trailer i haul fully loaded with tires im sypost to have my cdl with it i just aint got around too it being a student in diesel mechenic

You need a Class A CDL in Texas to pull a 25' horse trailer Slim...really?
 


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