Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel SPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 07-09-2011, 10:56 PM
CPUNeck's Avatar
CPUNeck CPUNeck is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Campbell, KY
Posts: 864
CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.
Rebuilding a Double Cardan Joint (Vid/Pics)

How to rebuild the Double Cardan joint found on 137” to 142” wheelbase SD F250's.


Parts needed:
Double cardan joint repair kit (Neapco, 77-0081 NG) Qty-1
Joint replacement U-joints (Spicer, 5-1350X) Qty-2
Rear pinion U-joint (Spicer, 5-1410X) Qty-1
High quality grease (for the slip joint)
Clamps (for the slip joint if you have to cut the old ones off, Zip ties can work)
Lock tight (for U-joint straps at the pinion)
Anti-Seize (for the U-joint caps)


Tools needed:
8mm socket (pinion U-joint straps)
12mm, 12point socket (champion flange at the transfer case)
Needle nose pliers
Flat blade screw driver (1-large, 1-small)
Channel locks
1” Deep well, 1/2” drive socket
Press, conventional hydraulic or C-press (screw type), if you do not have either...
21mm 1/2” drive socket (to drive the U-joint caps in and out)
4lb mallet
Hard flat surface to do the driving
Something to mark on the driveshaft (grease pencil, paint pen, zizwheel, white fingernail polish)
Parts washer, or other cleaning solution
A creeper is a huge plus, you shouldn't have to jack up the truck.




[If you want to add the Zerk fitting]
You'll need a small fitting
7/16th drill bit
90 degree grease fitting for the Zerk


When do you rebuild/how do you know it's time? Well for me, I knew there was close to a quarter million miles on the centering ball, and the U-joints have only been replaced once. That was enough for me. Most people for some reason neglect this joint.


Removal:
Take your marking tool and mark the orientation of the driveshaft at every removable point. So you should have a mark on the pinion, tail section of the slip yolk, driveshaft at the slip yolk, up front you should have a mark on the driveshaft, the center section of the double cardan joint, the spider trunnion attached to the center section, and the output champion flange from the transfer case. Mark it well enough so you can put it all back together exactly like you took it apart.


Loosen the 4 bolts at the transfer case using a 12mm, 12 point socket. Remove 3 of the bolts, leaving one installed loosely so you can access it with one hand.


Use your 8mm socket to loosen and remove the U-joint straps bolted to the pinion. Then remove the rear of the driveshaft from the pinion, reach toward the transfer case and remove the remaining bolt. You should be holding your driveshaft now, completely free from the truck.



If your double cardan joint does this, it's probably time to rebuild!


You need the needle nose pliers, channel locks, and a flat blade screw driver. Start with the center section of the joint. I did most of the work on my tailgate. Remove the keepers, and drive the old U-joints to one side, once the caps are extended past the center section, take the channel locks and remove the caps. (If you caps are stubborn, try some vise-grips and soak the cap with PB Blaster)


From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Once you disassemble the joint you'll have the driveshaft, center section, and the front spider trunnion. The front spider trunnion houses the centering ball, along with its seal, and the drive shaft has the small shaft that engages the centering ball, a spring, and the outer dust shield for the centering ball.


From Double Cardan joint rebuild

The centering ball is pressed in the front spider trunnion, but not very tight. There is a tiny seal pressed around the centering ball, it pops right off with the screw driver. Then the centering ball can be removed with the same screw driver and 21mm socket. You may have to give it a couple good “prys” in order to unseat the centering ball.


From Double Cardan joint rebuild


Finish removing the U-joint from the driveshaft and from the spider trunnion, and your finished with disassembly. Now clean everything up, and get ready to reinstall.


From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Installation


Start with installing the centering ball in the spider trunnion, use the 1” Deep well socket to drive it in. I greased the spider's cavity well with caliper grease to help dispel water, and assist in the prevention of other contaminants from entering the centering ball's cavity. There is a small hole in the spider trunnion at the rear of the centering ball cavity, perhaps to allow moisture to exit. After driving the centering ball in with the socket, you will need to use the flat blade screw driver and tap it around the edges to completely seat it. (unless you have a THIN walled socket) Now install the new seal around the centering ball using the same socket. Your done with this part, leave that cap in the centering ball. (but take the spring out of the inside of it, it goes in the driveshaft end.)


From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Next install the dust shield on the driveshaft. Be careful not to damage it. I lubed it up good with caliper grease after it was cleaned, so it went on pretty easy. Use the flat blade screw driver with a small hammer to completely seat the dust shield on the driveshaft. Install the spring into the end of the driveshaft.


From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Now install the first U-joint in the driveshaft and center section. Use the 21mm socket (or press), coat the caps with anti-seize so in the future they will come back out. Just ensure you do not get the anti-seize into the needle bearing grease or the cap. **Make sure you line up your marks!**


From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



The Spicer U-joints ship with 3 different sized keepers, while they all would fit, the ugly green ones where the best.
From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Last U-joint will be installed in the spider trunnion first, then into the center section. **Make sure you line up your marks!**
From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Make sure the keepers are completely seated.
From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Now the fun... installing the spider trunnion into the center section. Make sure the driveshaft is stationary (not easily rolling around), and that you can articulate the joint. You'll have to cant the joint in one direction, and shift the U-join in the spider. You'll have to remove the shipping cap (red in my case) from the centering ball, and this exposes the needle bearings, they're smaller than U-join bearings, and a pain in the A$$, so take your time lining everything up. As you assemble, you'll see that the spring in the driveshaft is in your way, and will be what knocks your needle bearings out. Take the flat blade screw driver and compress the spring enough to clear the centering ball and pay attention to the U-joint insertion. Both need to happen at the same time, it will if your angle is right. Once you clear the spring and your U-joint is landing in the hole, push it in straight as far as you can, then actuate the joint a small amount to ensure your all the way in the centering ball with the driveshaft. You'll know if some of the needle bearings fell out when you articulate the joint. No biggy if they did, you'll just have to R&R the spider and reset all the bearings. (don't ask me how I know) You don't want to force it because you might damage one of the bearings.


From Double Cardan joint rebuild



I couldn't get a shot of the exact positioning, because I'd need 3 arms and an editor for the language It's not that hard though. That's it for the double cardan.


The slip yolk end is straight forward, and you can see I added a Zerk fitting for the addition of grease without having to remove the driveshaft.


From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Hole for the Zerk
From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Couple of notes:
Your keepers should be extended a little in the center, indicating that the U-joint is “squeezed” a small amount in the yolk.
From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Your U-joints should be quiet tight. When installing the keepers on the opposite sides, if your having trouble getting them seated, check how easily the joint pivots. If it's easy, the cap isn't pushed in enough. If it is tight, ensure you cleaned the grove well so the keeper can ride there. Prior to installing the slip yolk, I greased her up WELL. The manual calls for adding grease to the boot also.


From Double Cardan joint rebuild



From Double Cardan joint rebuild



Last but not least, reinstall the driveshaft. Hopefully you lined everything back up the way it was removed. Put all your bolts and tools close to where you're working, have the lock tight already on the 8mm bolts. Install one rear strap on the pinion (closest to the bottom) loosely so you can slip the U-joint in there and have it stay, then move toward the transfer case and install the 12mm bolts. Then put the other strap on the rear. When all the bolts are in, torque the pinion to 26ft/lbs (8mm), and the transfer case to 76ft/lbs (12mm).


End result...

Very pleased with the out come. You really have to crank on this thing now to get it to move.


So a road test confirmed that this joint was in dyer need of maintenance. Smoother, no vibration, less backlash, etc. There's plenty more pictures in the album, I just hate how Google only lets you put the pictures in a single vertical row, and 30pics are the limit on this site.
__________________
Casper - Early 99' Upgraded to 99.5' F250 XLT SWB PSD, 4x4, GTP38R, Adrenalin, OE Swamps AD Injs, EBPV Delete, Perf Friction 2-pcs rotors, 4" MBRP turbo back, AFE, 6leaker OEM cooler, Detroit TruTrac, BTS, Lunar Autometer gauges, NVK4 w/(BTS Tunes/DP-F6C) 140vIDM, 238k mi
SVO Conversion Updated SVO stuff

Last edited by CPUNeck; 07-10-2011 at 10:41 AM. Reason: Spelling error
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-10-2011, 02:45 AM
hotroddsl's Avatar
hotroddsl hotroddsl is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Gilbert Az.
Posts: 2,364
hotroddsl has a very good reputation on FTE.hotroddsl has a very good reputation on FTE.hotroddsl has a very good reputation on FTE.
one of the best how to's I've seen....kudos great detail!
__________________
"I'm Jim and I'm a modaholic"PAA#111 '02 CC lariat, 4x4 6" 37x12.5 70R17 BAJA TA's, JW trans, 7.3, AFE intake, blade runner, AFE 5" exh., GTP38R non-wastegated, Beans stage II, Mahle ceramics, crower rods, 6.0 spearco CAC, Adrenaline HPOP, ceramic manifolds, TS Performance by BDP and yes, it's FAST!;'07 4x4 DRW CC Lariat moonroof & leather, 6", 6.0L PSD, 4" AFE, CAC & high ram, tuning by spartan, '07 Warrior 39 CR. '98 &'99 Expey's, custom rack by Dr. Fam
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-10-2011, 05:08 AM
ChunderDownUnder's Avatar
ChunderDownUnder ChunderDownUnder is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Man Cave
Posts: 2,048
ChunderDownUnder has a great reputation on FTE.ChunderDownUnder has a great reputation on FTE.ChunderDownUnder has a great reputation on FTE.ChunderDownUnder has a great reputation on FTE.ChunderDownUnder has a great reputation on FTE.
this is what makes this site what it is. reps sent
__________________
Brian
03 F250 XLT LB . Full Engine build with all the goodies.
- cant wait until my motor blows so I can blame someone else -
join the Australian Chapter here-Join Chapter
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-10-2011, 06:08 AM
megawatt00's Avatar
megawatt00 megawatt00 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Rochdale MA
Posts: 13,115
megawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputationmegawatt00 has a superb reputation
Excellent Job. Reps sent.
__________________
Jim
01 F350 DRW, Autometer Gauges, Custom CAI with Petes Cover, 6" Miter Stacks, 38R Turbo, Casserly SS Injectors, Live tuned by DP-Tuner (F6) , and a bunch of other stuff some show, and some go. PAA #14
www.roadsidehelpnetwork.org
RIP Robin Gone but not forgotten....RIP Mark.. I'll never forget you!!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-10-2011, 07:28 AM
hhcobra hhcobra is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Lowcountry, S.C.
Posts: 236
hhcobra is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Great write-up and pictures!!! Tried to rep you.
__________________
Fred

2001 X 7.3 PSD LIMITED, 4X4, Pro Comp 22210 Springs, 4" Rear Blocks, RS9000XL Ranchos, 203 Stat, Happy Truck!!!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-10-2011, 08:23 AM
big poppa's Avatar
big poppa big poppa is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lancaster, Pa.
Posts: 10,970
big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.big poppa has a spectacular reputation.
Glad your here with us at FTE, we appreciate all your hard work and documenting, sweet writeup, thanks again Brother...
__________________
Mike's 03 [FONT=Verdana]F-250 7.3 CC SB XLT 4x4 Auto and just joined the 229,000 miles and counting. [FONT=Comic Sans MS]PAA#26 Wife's: Whoops, I mean an 08 (Explorer) Eddie B. 4.0 v6 4x4 109,000
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-10-2011, 10:40 AM
CPUNeck's Avatar
CPUNeck CPUNeck is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Campbell, KY
Posts: 864
CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.
Thanks guys , I thought there was only two of us with these backward driveshafts.. LOL .

I searched on how to do this, and came up with a goose egg, so I threw sumtin together. Just a very SMALL pay back for the untold amount of great information I've received from the fine fellas (and gals) on this site.
__________________
Casper - Early 99' Upgraded to 99.5' F250 XLT SWB PSD, 4x4, GTP38R, Adrenalin, OE Swamps AD Injs, EBPV Delete, Perf Friction 2-pcs rotors, 4" MBRP turbo back, AFE, 6leaker OEM cooler, Detroit TruTrac, BTS, Lunar Autometer gauges, NVK4 w/(BTS Tunes/DP-F6C) 140vIDM, 238k mi
SVO Conversion Updated SVO stuff
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-10-2011, 12:35 PM
cj45lc's Avatar
cj45lc cj45lc is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Smyrna, DE
Posts: 1,814
cj45lc has a very good reputation on FTE.cj45lc has a very good reputation on FTE.cj45lc has a very good reputation on FTE.
Great write up, tried to rep
__________________
2000 F250 7.3 Auto SCLB 2WD PHP Tunes AIS 4"TBEXH CCV Mod W-W
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-10-2011, 09:15 PM
Persona's Avatar
Persona Persona is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Shuswap
Posts: 84
Persona is starting off with a positive reputation.
Man I hate doing these things, but thanks for the great post. Should be added to the tech sticky at the top.
__________________
2000 F-550 XLT 2WD
2002 Dodge 2500 4x4 HO Cummins ECLB
Various other vehicles...
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-10-2011, 09:23 PM
rat49f6's Avatar
rat49f6 rat49f6 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mcafee, NJ
Posts: 3,961
rat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to behold
Jim Jam Sanders
Casper does this joint bolt to the trans???
__________________
JIM
e 99 F250 super duty ext cab xlt 7.3 PSD ZF6 this describes it best... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ld-thread.html
1997 F-250 eclb 4x4 7.3 auto, dana 60, rsk, reverse hangers, sd springs 36x12.50x16.5 tires on 16.5 x 9.75" wheels
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-10-2011, 10:42 PM
woodnthings's Avatar
woodnthings woodnthings is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Posts: 2,908
woodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud ofwoodnthings has much to be proud of
Awesome job!
__________________
Ken

2002 F-350 CCLB 4X4 Website, HD4R100 , T-500, Melling LPOP, Gen-2 FRx, Bellowed Up-Pipes, Riffraff OCR, , Braided Brake Lines, CAC Boots & Billet Plenums, Aeroforce Scangauge, 4" Diamond Eye, Powerslots, Ported Compressor Housing, DP Tuner-F6, AE, KCM S.S. HPX, S&B Filters intake, Quad pod w/ISSPRO EV2's, Big Head , 6.0L Trans Cooler,
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-11-2011, 07:47 AM
CPUNeck's Avatar
CPUNeck CPUNeck is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fort Campbell, KY
Posts: 864
CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.CPUNeck has a very good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rat49f6 View Post
Casper does this joint bolt to the trans???
No, it bolts to the transfer case. Exactly like the front, only bigger.
__________________
Casper - Early 99' Upgraded to 99.5' F250 XLT SWB PSD, 4x4, GTP38R, Adrenalin, OE Swamps AD Injs, EBPV Delete, Perf Friction 2-pcs rotors, 4" MBRP turbo back, AFE, 6leaker OEM cooler, Detroit TruTrac, BTS, Lunar Autometer gauges, NVK4 w/(BTS Tunes/DP-F6C) 140vIDM, 238k mi
SVO Conversion Updated SVO stuff
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-11-2011, 03:02 PM
rat49f6's Avatar
rat49f6 rat49f6 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mcafee, NJ
Posts: 3,961
rat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to beholdrat49f6 is a splendid one to behold
Jim Jam Sanders
oh yes 4wd ... i need to figure out how to put one on my 2 piece drives haft, on the rear section
__________________
JIM
e 99 F250 super duty ext cab xlt 7.3 PSD ZF6 this describes it best... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ld-thread.html
1997 F-250 eclb 4x4 7.3 auto, dana 60, rsk, reverse hangers, sd springs 36x12.50x16.5 tires on 16.5 x 9.75" wheels
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-18-2011, 08:31 AM
davidjurss's Avatar
davidjurss davidjurss is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Atascosa, TX
Posts: 68
davidjurss is starting off with a positive reputation.
davidjurss11b davidjurss
Thank you very much for this write-up. My double cardan just went bad, so this will help a lot with fixing it!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-27-2012, 11:20 AM
chalupien chalupien is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 2
chalupien is starting off with a positive reputation.
Can I take this driveshaft out and still drive my truck

So I have a chirping/grinding driveshaft, that "all of a sudden" after a rear end collision while parked against a curb with the hubs locked, after $15000 of front end work, the hubs and bearings had to be replaced along with some body work. The brunt of the collision hit the tow hitch.

Anyway, all that was fixed but the dudes at the shop say that my driveshaft is rusted and from normal wear and tear it broke at the same time the accident occured, AND the insurance wont cover the repair of the driveshaft. ( I hardly use my trans in 4x4, although I always keep my hubs locked, which I found out turns the driveshaft) ANYWAY,

I would like to do this job, and I'm wondering it is OK to remove the driveshaft and have it out while I drive around town getting parts, and using my truck for work? I know I have to line everything up perfectly before re-installation. But would there be any other downsides?
Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2012, 11:20 AM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel

Tags
1999, 90, bronco, cardan, double, enthusiastcom, f250, ford, joint, rebuild, rebuilding, spicer, truck, trunnion, ujoint

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New shop in town shorebird Garage & Workshop 14 03-26-2014 07:30 AM
Pictures of my new truck! DIYiT 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 22 09-27-2013 11:08 PM
Torn apart '12 F-150 shorebird 2009+ F150 25 10-29-2012 02:34 PM
PRNDL pointer adjustment or repair shorebird General Automotive Discussion 3 09-20-2012 07:51 AM
Econoline roof converion. brandonorban 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 10 08-29-2012 07:56 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup