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Broken connection between key cylinder and ignition switch

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  #1  
Old 07-08-2011, 11:48 AM
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Broken connection between key cylinder and ignition switch

I have a 1995 F150 4.9 automatic. One day the key cylinder quit working except that it would move against the spring load into the start position and then come back into the run position. Once in the run position it would rotate freely without having any effect on the operation of the vehicle, i.e., I couldn't stop the engine from running. Well I finally figured that out--I pulled a 50 amp fuse that resides under the hood. Unfortunately the ignition switch was still stuck in the run position, so the battery would have drained down had I not disconnected a cable.

What I have done so far:
I replaced the key locking cylinder to no avail. Same symptoms continued.
I pulled the ignition switch off of the steering column. It works fine. I can manually click it through all the required positions using the post that sticks out of it, and even start the truck by holding the post over against the spring loading.

So it appears that the key cylinder must be good (it's brand new) and the ignition switch is good (it works the way it should), but the two aren't connected anymore. It seems it would be easy enough to check the rod that connects them, but I can't figure out how to get to it. The steering column is wrapped in steel--for theft prevention I guess, but it's making repair a pain. How do I replace the broken rod?

Any help out there?

Thanks.

Keith
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:43 PM
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Jas88 did a write up on it. Search him and see if you can find his thread on it. Sorry can't remember the title to it.
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:12 PM
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:16 PM
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Go to this site:
Steering Column Parts, Replacement, & How to Instructions
It used to be Stolen and recovered.com

You can download exploded views, and purchase instructions and parts there.
The part you most likely need to replace is the upper Ignition Actuator (#3E723 in the diagram). It's the plastic rack gear that the key cylinder pushes on. It connects to the Lower Ignition Actuator, which pushes on the pin on the ignition switch. The connection between the two actuators allows for tilt columns. Ford used the same parts for tilt & non-tilt columns.

I had to do the same thing last year, and their instructions were good.

Good luck!
Phy
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:20 PM
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I just looked at the thread that Hunt89 posted. That's for the earlier style, but your '95 is different...
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:29 PM
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:41 PM
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You're in luck!
I just found the instructions I downloaded before they changed the web site & started charging for it.

Email me & I'll email back a pdf...

Phy
phydeaux@myqci.com
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Phy
You're in luck!
I just found the instructions I downloaded before they changed the web site & started charging for it.

Email me & I'll email back a pdf...

Phy
phydeaux@myqci.com
Thanks Phydeaux! I sent you an e-mail.

Keith
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kjhansen
Thanks Phydeaux! I sent you an e-mail.

Keith
I have the same job to do on my 95 F150, sent email as well. After 218,000 mi, I can't complain. The 4.9L runs great & gets good mileage.
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:09 PM
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I found it easier to just replace the column with a junkyard one and put my new ignition switch in it.
 
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  #11  
Old 07-09-2011, 04:18 AM
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it is almost easier to just change the column, but there is no guarantee the column you put in does not have a broken actuator or it will not break next week.
 
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Old 07-09-2011, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Phy
I just looked at the thread that Hunt89 posted. That's for the earlier style, but your '95 is different...
Sorry I did not realize it was for a earlier style.
 
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Old 07-13-2011, 01:01 PM
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Well, thanks to Phydeaux and the file he sent me, I got the steering column apart and found the broken piece.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...s/100_1067.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...s/100_1068.jpg
Now I just have to get the new piece or pieces (although everything else looks fine) and put it back together.
Keith
 
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Old 07-13-2011, 01:45 PM
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F2DZ-3E723-A
$15.60 from your Ford dealer
 
  #15  
Old 07-13-2011, 07:32 PM
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$16.73 with tax... and hours taking the old one out and putting the new one in. Not done yet. On the other hand, I'm retired and only work part-time as a substitute teacher when school is in session, so I have more time than money... The broken tooth was part of the problem--the pin falling out was the other part.
 

Last edited by kjhansen; 07-13-2011 at 07:33 PM. Reason: clarification


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