5th Wheel Prep and 5th Wheel with Gooseneck
#16
You can't post pics directly from your hard drive. Upload the pic to your gallery or album on FTE and then you can post it from there.
Also, if you're talking about the six big Torx head bolts on the bottom of the bed, they hold the entire bed on the frame. There is no removable center panel on these beds.
Also, if you're talking about the six big Torx head bolts on the bottom of the bed, they hold the entire bed on the frame. There is no removable center panel on these beds.
That is what I thought too but this guy emailed me a picture from Ford showing the panel removed in an exploded view. The dealer said it would take them half a day to install it and it would be between $1000 to $1200 just to put in the 5th wheel prep package. I was trying to figure out if it would be worth it to buy the prep package from a guy that has one for $200 and install it myself but not if I need to raise the bed. The only people around me that could help is my 13 year old with his headphones on, my 6 year old with his toy guns, my beagle with a bad leg, my wife who wants me to watch the kids so she can go buy or return some stuff or my neighbor who is a recovering alcoholic and has the shakes. I hope I come across a video on the internet showing somebody else doing it that way it will be easier. Thanks for the info.
#17
The only people around me that could help is my 13 year old with his headphones on, my 6 year old with his toy guns, my beagle with a bad leg, my wife who wants me to watch the kids so she can go buy or return some stuff or my neighbor who is a recovering alcoholic and has the shakes.
Man, I feel your pain. That is a great deal on the factory prep package though. I'd be tempted to go ahead and buy it anyway. I don't think the install would be that hard actually. Granted, you'd have to lift the bed but you wouldn't have to completely remove it....just raise it enough to access that part of the frame rails. The only other things you'd need would be a steady hand cutting the holes in your bed and a new set of bed bolts. Not sure where you are but you might check to see if there are any of the FTE members of your state chapter who live close enough to help you out with it.
ON EDIT: I looked at that diagram you've got in your album. I think the reason it shows as just a panel is that it's a cutaway drawing without the bedsides so that they could show the actual hitch components and frame without the bedsides being in the way.
I noticed your profile says you're in California. Several of the FTE members from the SoCal and NorCal chapters have get togethers where they work on their trucks together. You might check with some of the guys and gals in the California Chapters to see when they're having another G2G or to see if anyone lives close enough to be able to help you out with it. I'm too far east to be of help or I'd be glad to.
Last edited by powerstroke72; 02-20-2013 at 10:36 AM.
#18
Dear God....that's the hardest I've laughed all day!!!!!
Man, I feel your pain. That is a great deal on the factory prep package though. I'd be tempted to go ahead and buy it anyway. I don't think the install would be that hard actually. Granted, you'd have to lift the bed but you wouldn't have to completely remove it....just raise it enough to access that part of the frame rails. The only other things you'd need would be a steady hand cutting the holes in your bed and a new set of bed bolts. Not sure where you are but you might check to see if there are any of the FTE members of your state chapter who live close enough to help you out with it.
ON EDIT: I looked at that diagram you've got in your album. I think the reason it shows as just a panel is that it's a cutaway drawing without the bedsides so that they could show the actual hitch components and frame without the bedsides being in the way.
I noticed your profile says you're in California. Several of the FTE members from the SoCal and NorCal chapters have get togethers where they work on their trucks together. You might check with some of the guys and gals in the California Chapters to see when they're having another G2G or to see if anyone lives close enough to be able to help you out with it. I'm too far east to be of help or I'd be glad to.
Man, I feel your pain. That is a great deal on the factory prep package though. I'd be tempted to go ahead and buy it anyway. I don't think the install would be that hard actually. Granted, you'd have to lift the bed but you wouldn't have to completely remove it....just raise it enough to access that part of the frame rails. The only other things you'd need would be a steady hand cutting the holes in your bed and a new set of bed bolts. Not sure where you are but you might check to see if there are any of the FTE members of your state chapter who live close enough to help you out with it.
ON EDIT: I looked at that diagram you've got in your album. I think the reason it shows as just a panel is that it's a cutaway drawing without the bedsides so that they could show the actual hitch components and frame without the bedsides being in the way.
I noticed your profile says you're in California. Several of the FTE members from the SoCal and NorCal chapters have get togethers where they work on their trucks together. You might check with some of the guys and gals in the California Chapters to see when they're having another G2G or to see if anyone lives close enough to be able to help you out with it. I'm too far east to be of help or I'd be glad to.
I appreciate that and I will try to see if somebody close to me can help me out. Thanks.
#19
I had a guy mash my bed up and I bought a new bed and put it on.
Removing and replacing the bed is really pretty easy. Undo the 6 bolts, get four guy, one on each corner to pick up the bed and walk off. If the bolts come loose, It's a 10 minute process.
I seriously doubt you need to remove the bed. You might have to loosen it and jack it up to relieve some pressure so you can slip the gooseneck plate across the frame rails. But I suspect the OEM parts don't come into contact with the bed, because that would create a fulcrum that would make the bed floor uneven.
Before you start your project, Make sure you can get the RIGHT Torx drivers for your bed screws. They are not just a standard size 50 Torx. I had to chase around town to several industrial tool supply houses to get some drivers with the right shape angles for a snug fit into the bolts heads. These bolts are extremely tight and it is easy to strip out the heads. I know because I ruined a head on one of mine before I realized I needed special torx. I ended up having to grind off the bolt head and remove the bolt after I had pulled the bed off. Not a big deal when I was throwing the bed away anyway. But you sure wouldn't want to take a grinder to a bed you are keeping.
Removing and replacing the bed is really pretty easy. Undo the 6 bolts, get four guy, one on each corner to pick up the bed and walk off. If the bolts come loose, It's a 10 minute process.
I seriously doubt you need to remove the bed. You might have to loosen it and jack it up to relieve some pressure so you can slip the gooseneck plate across the frame rails. But I suspect the OEM parts don't come into contact with the bed, because that would create a fulcrum that would make the bed floor uneven.
Before you start your project, Make sure you can get the RIGHT Torx drivers for your bed screws. They are not just a standard size 50 Torx. I had to chase around town to several industrial tool supply houses to get some drivers with the right shape angles for a snug fit into the bolts heads. These bolts are extremely tight and it is easy to strip out the heads. I know because I ruined a head on one of mine before I realized I needed special torx. I ended up having to grind off the bolt head and remove the bolt after I had pulled the bed off. Not a big deal when I was throwing the bed away anyway. But you sure wouldn't want to take a grinder to a bed you are keeping.
#20
I had a guy mash my bed up and I bought a new bed and put it on.
Removing and replacing the bed is really pretty easy. Undo the 6 bolts, get four guy, one on each corner to pick up the bed and walk off. If the bolts come loose, It's a 10 minute process.
I seriously doubt you need to remove the bed. You might have to loosen it and jack it up to relieve some pressure so you can slip the gooseneck plate across the frame rails. But I suspect the OEM parts don't come into contact with the bed, because that would create a fulcrum that would make the bed floor uneven.
Before you start your project, Make sure you can get the RIGHT Torx drivers for your bed screws. They are not just a standard size 50 Torx. I had to chase around town to several industrial tool supply houses to get some drivers with the right shape angles for a snug fit into the bolts heads. These bolts are extremely tight and it is easy to strip out the heads. I know because I ruined a head on one of mine before I realized I needed special torx. I ended up having to grind off the bolt head and remove the bolt after I had pulled the bed off. Not a big deal when I was throwing the bed away anyway. But you sure wouldn't want to take a grinder to a bed you are keeping.
Removing and replacing the bed is really pretty easy. Undo the 6 bolts, get four guy, one on each corner to pick up the bed and walk off. If the bolts come loose, It's a 10 minute process.
I seriously doubt you need to remove the bed. You might have to loosen it and jack it up to relieve some pressure so you can slip the gooseneck plate across the frame rails. But I suspect the OEM parts don't come into contact with the bed, because that would create a fulcrum that would make the bed floor uneven.
Before you start your project, Make sure you can get the RIGHT Torx drivers for your bed screws. They are not just a standard size 50 Torx. I had to chase around town to several industrial tool supply houses to get some drivers with the right shape angles for a snug fit into the bolts heads. These bolts are extremely tight and it is easy to strip out the heads. I know because I ruined a head on one of mine before I realized I needed special torx. I ended up having to grind off the bolt head and remove the bolt after I had pulled the bed off. Not a big deal when I was throwing the bed away anyway. But you sure wouldn't want to take a grinder to a bed you are keeping.
Exactly what I was worried about and thanks for the "heads up". Did the fuel filler pipe need to be loosen or any other brackets holding the exhaust? I want to keep the truck original and I figuered the original part which is one piece would also be easier to install instead of those aftermarket ones that have to be bolted together.
#21
Filler hose has to be disconnected if you remove the bed, If you just loosen and slightly lift the bed, then no the filler would not have to be disconnected. The exhaust is all attached to the frame members. So no concern there.
Again, I'm pretty sure that the Ford parts can not put pressure against the bottom of the bed or it would flex the bed over that fulcrum point cause the bed to not be flat. So it's got to be just a matter of whether you can slide the plate in and insert the bolts with the bed in place. Lifting the bed may just give you that extra room needed to insert the bolts etc.
Installing the aftermarket B&W is an hour job. It's not difficult and does not require you to loosen or remove the bed. Since the Ford product is really a Reese Hitch. I gotta believe they also look at it from an after market perspective, since Reese sells it for aftermarket. You are just going to have to keep hoping somebody that has installed one can join in and give you their expert opinion.
I know around here, it is pretty easy to buy and have installed a B&W Turnover Ball for $500. If you are paying $200 of the 5th wheel prep kit, plus the $200 for the actual ball to install into the 5th wheel prep, You are $400 and you worrying about doing the install to save $100. Pay the $500 for the B&W and be done and keep your fingernails clean. I can't tell you how many miles I towed GN trailers on B&W GN hitches over the past 12 years. They work great, I would not loose sleep over installing one on a truck.
Again, I'm pretty sure that the Ford parts can not put pressure against the bottom of the bed or it would flex the bed over that fulcrum point cause the bed to not be flat. So it's got to be just a matter of whether you can slide the plate in and insert the bolts with the bed in place. Lifting the bed may just give you that extra room needed to insert the bolts etc.
Installing the aftermarket B&W is an hour job. It's not difficult and does not require you to loosen or remove the bed. Since the Ford product is really a Reese Hitch. I gotta believe they also look at it from an after market perspective, since Reese sells it for aftermarket. You are just going to have to keep hoping somebody that has installed one can join in and give you their expert opinion.
I know around here, it is pretty easy to buy and have installed a B&W Turnover Ball for $500. If you are paying $200 of the 5th wheel prep kit, plus the $200 for the actual ball to install into the 5th wheel prep, You are $400 and you worrying about doing the install to save $100. Pay the $500 for the B&W and be done and keep your fingernails clean. I can't tell you how many miles I towed GN trailers on B&W GN hitches over the past 12 years. They work great, I would not loose sleep over installing one on a truck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2011, 5th, bc3z19d520a, bc3z19f503a, bc3z5f057a, dealer, ford, gooseneck, hitch, install, installed, instruction, instructions, package, prep, wheel