And it also smelled like burned oil, to my surprise it turned out to be this:
Yes, one of the boots busted.
And upon, jacking up the vehicle there seemed to be a little loose in that tie rod when pushing/pulling the passenger side tire.
Just to be safe, both tie rods will be changed, the other one looks like:
Notice how cracked/dry the rubber is? I will start spraying these(and the other rubber boots) with silicon at every oil change from now on.
Purchase some new tie rods:
Lift up vehicle using notches on the radius arms, and position some axle stands, safety first.
Before doing anything, measure everything!
Counting the number of turns when taking off a tie rod end is not going to work, one of them turns in the wrong way. Measure the distance instead, 1 turn will make a noticeable distance difference.
I would also advice on measuring the total length of the tie rod bar, this should allow you to put it back pretty much like it was.
Now spray plenty of this stuff:
Try to drown these:
You might want to secure the steering wheel with a seat belt, just in case.
Now, undo the bolt on the passenger side, use a puller and/or a hammer to separate them. Then unbolt the driver side, same strategy. (Sorry no pictures)
Now that you have tie rod bar in your hands, put it into a vice to undo one end.
Inspect, mine had this:
Spray more of that stuff:
Now with the adjusters loose (take that bolt out!), try to pry this a little, and use a pipe wrench to unscrew the tie rod. (If you feel like counting the number of turns be my guest, good luck)
Now put the new end on, and turn the same exact number of turns, or better yet just measure the gap (this is assuming the new part is exactly like the old part):
Once both ends are done, re-installation is easy.
Just bolt it up, I think the torque specs are 85lb-ft for the tie rod ends and 41lb-ft for the adjusters but double check this, I could be wrong.
Measure the distance between the front tires in the front and in the back, it should be about the same.
Now it's time to get an alignment and you're done!
what year is your truck my tie rods alittle diff but thats ok still about the same work
the only boot thats leaking is the Tie rod at the steering box
I was going to count the turns and also try and mark its position on the steering linkage
funny how 1-2 turns one way or another can throw alignment off
funny I measured the distance same way you did on my car and with some driveing and adjustment I got it right on It was easy but also only had one tire wearing funny so I knew I had to adjust that one by the time I had it going straight down the road the steeringwheel ended up centered perfict
2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe, TC SX8000
HI, I am changing the Right one with Moog, mine is a 2006 and looks pretty well the same, the left looks OK but maybe I should do both.
What is the Moog number for the Left side (driver), I could not get a number. They want $184.00 for one here.
I got the Right one replaced 16 month ago with a ford Motorcrap, 11,000 miles on it and it's got a gook half inch play now, what a crarp. I also replaced the left hand ball joint, the upper one had quite a bit of play, may be it scrapped the tie rod??
F350 Lariat, 6.0, crew cab diesel, 8 foot box, 2006, SRW, 4x4, 2" front puck, scan gauge II, Rotella ELC, Coolant filter, Adjustable Ranchos, Rear adjustable Air lift, Rear sway bar, on order blue spring, stc.
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