bought 03 f350, round egr cooler. 174k in march
after 5k went to service found coolant low and brown grease/scum in degas bottle.
serviced truck and bought scangauge II
saw high delta on eot and wt. up to 45-48
checked this forum and tried to flush coolant system to fix prob.
after flush (3 with resolve and 2 with vc9) temps seemed worse
had mech put in factory oil cooler, picked up yesterday and test ran;

EOT temps still high
after truck is hot on level ground at 60mph, 10 miles
105'inlet 193fwt and 238eot, had to back down because it kept slowly climbing, dont think oil temp should be that hot.
truck idleing in yard with hood, up hose to degas bottle from intake bubbling like water is boiling off

new oil cooler does not seem to have made a diff

oh yeah, i live in the high desert and i think the increase in ambiant temp over the past several weeks has made it worse

what else besides oilcooler (oil or coolant side) blockage would cause this?

 

oh and thanks for all the info out there

 

Sounds like it had oil in the coolant from a failed oil cooler? if that's the case was it also flushed with simple green and were all the hoses replaced?

Either your new oil cooler replugged or you have insufficient coolant flow from a bad water pump or water pump housing or both.

 

no oil or exhaust in coolant
no coolant in oil
did not use simple green
and did not replace hoses

how do i determine if it is water pump?

and would coolant temp stay low if pump was bad?

 

Yes, the coolant temp could stay low. For example---new water pump installed, several new oil coolers installed, flushed 9 or more times with vc-9 still had a problem with steadily increasing EOT's. Turns out that the water pump housing (front engine cover) had cavitated to the point that enough water would flow to cool the block but not get enough coolant flow through the oil cooler. All this work performed by a VERY good diagnostic tech who has done a LOT of oil cooler changes.

Another possibility is that your EGR cooler is plugged not allowing sufficient coolant flow but I've never seen or heard of that.

 

so i should i still have a steady stream out of the hose intake to degas.
is there a way to test coolant flow?

 

There are a too many scenarios for your problem that aren't just cut and dried. Yes you should have a steady stream from the intake to degas bottle hose. I don't know the proper procedure to test coolant flow. Hopefully one of our knowledgeable tech's will chime in.

 

no such test. sorry.

 

guess its water pump next
will closley inspect housing for wear
thanks guys

 

So how do you figure out if you have a bad water pump/coolant flow?

 

i guess change out the pump
autozone has one in stock
86bucks
cheapest fiif it works) yet

 

If you pull the water pump out and find cavitation in the front cover you will also have to replace the front cover

usualy when the water pump fails it leaks

If you do find cavitation in front cover do some research I think bismic may know about this but since its 03 ford and in 05 IIRC they got a bigger water pump but you need the newer front cover for the bigger water pump

IIRC you would have to get a front cover and water pump for an 05

 

picked up pump
will install in the morning
thanks

 

i would start flushing every nook and cranny in the block,then move to the radiator before you put a new pump in.also, if you didnt get the oil flushed out real good it could be clogging your passages for coolant in the oil cooler.it dont take nothing at all to restrict the flow to it........trust me.backflush the oil cooler also and put a pan under the bottom radiator hose after you disconnect it from the radiator and see what you get out of it.did your mechanic do a flush on it?.

 

got a little sand when i drained it, dark
the old cooler was caked with it , also looked like it popped a hole in the cooler(a curve of casting was missing , looks like from the oil galley to downstream of oil filter)
no i dont believe he flushed it
some pitting 30%of face area
no plate today
test ran
60mph, 115'f ambiant,15miles, 228'eot, 190'fwt
climbed to 232eot 197'fwt up the few mile grade to my house
idleing with 134'f inlet air about 10 min to 210eot and 188'fwt, seemed to cool down better than a couple weeks ago when it was much cooler out

thinking i should weld up the ends of the egr cooler (to take the heat load off),
being after oil cooler, if boiling coolant in the egr cooler creating back pressure i will never be able to fix this sereous design flaw ........
does anyone make a blank that i could put in the egr cooler exhuast inlet?
just a temp fix to see if its worth welding the cooler.

cant get scan gauge to read exhaust temp.
whats max a stock truck should make?

and thanks again for the help guys