I have a 65 100 and am just about done rebuilding a 390. The previous motor was a 351W w/ C4 Transmission. I still have all the prior hardware and engine mounts.

Does anyone know if my old engine mounts may work for the 390? If not, any suggestions on places to look for mounts and brackets?

Also, any header suggestions?

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

- Mike, a newbie hotrodder

 

Does this truck still have the factory mounts? If it was an original V8 (352) truck, the mounts would be correct for the 390 if they're original. I'm using Hooker Super Competition headers on my 66. They fit good. The only issue is I can't change the starter without unbolting the header. I installed a good hi-torque mini-starter so I hopefully won't have to deal with it.

 

Mike Welcome to FTE

The prior engine perches will work. There were 2 engines available in 66 and both used the same perch. I would suggest that you grab a drivers side perch from a 73-76 pickup with power steering in case you want to do the upgrade later. The ps gear will hit your current perch.

I run the same header as Jeff, and they will will consume cheap starters, that can take several hours to complete a 15 min. starter change out.

a couple things to chew on




John

 

I also have to remove the right side header to remove the starter on my '65 F100 with a 390. As John indicated, the headers have a tendency to cook the starter. I thought about trying to come up with some sort of a heat shield thinking it could help preserve the starter, but haven't built one yet. So when you plan to change your cooked starter, plan on a new header gasket as well. I have stopped letting the 390 idle very long - no more than a couple minutes, which I think has helped extend the starter life. Be careful of the placement of the starter cable so it doesn't hit/touch the header primary pipes. I ran a longer cable from the starter forward close along the block (behind the header) and then up and over to the solenoid to reduce that potential problem. Good Luck!
BarnieTrk

P.S
Are you planning to use the C4 with the 390? If not, what trans are you planning to use? .

 

I just installed a set of Hedman Elite headers (#89810) on my 66 352 a couple of weeks ago. As the others have said, I couldn't find any way to install the passenger side header without removing the starter. That's part of the deal when installing headers on an FE engine! Once you get the header part way in, you have to reinstall the starter before bolting up the header. Yes, it will be a total PITA when/if the starter goes! These headers offer pretty good clearance around the starter and also have some kind of thermal coating on them so hopefully it will won't have too much of a negative effect on the starter. Time will tell. There is a thread of my installation somewhere on here.

 

I had headman headers. but pulled them and sold them as I was happy with the fit.... Sanderson Headers FF427 will bolt up to an FE without pulling the starter loose. but they are a bit more pricey, at $325 for painted, and $425 for ceramic coated... A buddy of mine owns an exhaust shop and he puts a piece"Rattle Trap" sound proofing, and heat proofing around the Starter, and it prevents heat build up in the Starter. Rattle trap is just like Dynamat, but quite a bit cheaper in price. So far it has kept my starter pretty cool, but the long haul will tell.

 

Jet, yours is also a '64 and the difference in the front frame/cross member probably makes it easier to install your headers vs the '65 & newer with the twin-i-beams. The heat shield material around the starter is probably not a bad idea either way.

 

You are right Ford guy about the front suspension, Vs the headers in the 65 it is different. The Sandersons though are a shorty header of sorts, that is made to fit around all of those obstacles... I know there is no one perfect fit, each set up is different.

The "Rattle Trap heat and sound shield really seems to be doing the trick quite nicely so far.. actually it seems the Starter turns over a bit easier now on hot days, but I attribute that also partly to a new 140 amp Alternator too! My battery used to sit at rest at about 12.4-12.6 volts, now it is at 13.1-13.4 volts, witha a steady 14.5 when running.

@ Ms_Davis if the motor mount becomes an issue CPP has an engine swap mount kit for the slicks, and the FE series I used it on mine, it sure made life easy,, it can either be bolted or welded in and with everything it was about $140.. it is an option, or more a last resort. I used it because it contained the engine torque a little better than the stock setup. Which means more torque to the rear wheels. It also fit nicely with the headers.

 

I have a set of FE mounts from my 66 left over after the 460 swap if you need them.