Got a '69 with a '72 302.
Has been sitting for ten years. Grabbed a battery out of my ;98 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6.
Replaced Positive battery terminal to starter relay wire.
Checked for voltage at relay- 12.8v
Checked for voltage at starter- 12.8v
Checked for ground at block- says there is ground.
Changed oil and filter.
Cranked it over by hand a few times.
Tried to start her with key.
Engine rotates, but very slowly- all most like its got a dead battery.
The battery is for sure good- I use it every day. it may be the wrong size. what is the right size/group, cranking amps for this truck?
What else is could be the issue?
Doesn't seem to have enough rotation to pump fuel.
What should I do to get her to turn over strong enough to start?

 

Timing way off, weak starter or bad starter connection for a few. Don't believe batt is the problem. Engine should have been primed using oil pump shaft before attempting, but pull the plugs and shoot a little Marvel Mystery oil in each cyl and let it set a bit. Then see if you can get it turning freely with the plugs out. Need to get oil pumped into all the bearings and lifters. Just cranked one setting for over 25 years.

 

Welcome to the forum (& site)! Hope U stay awhile, good folks here.

Like Richard sez that battery group's fine (unless real weak). Was the motor dry for those yrs it sat? Chuck a varable speed drill on the shaft set on lowest speed, follow ideas above. Don't wanna score the bores, break rings, etc.

enough rotation to pump fuel.
If it spins a little more freely then 2 oz pour of gasoline into the carb could help (hadda start mine that way all the time B 4 the carb rebuild). But free it up 1st!

 

Thanks for the welcome.
Marvel Mystery down the spark plug hole's eh? Sounds like a good idea. What are we talking...a couple tablespoons? or more? I'll have to pick some up. I think I might have a can of Sea-Foam lying around. Probably should stick with something more of an oil type product though right? Would straight oil due the trick?
I've been following the wire diagrams at
SeaBiscuit68 decent site- it seems to have everything I need.
I wonder if the ground to the block is weak- if that were the case, it wouldn't crank at all...right?

On a side note, does any one have a list of any swap meets for old Ford stuff in the Massachusetts/New England area?

 

Couple tablespoons is fine. Save the Seafoam and pour in carb once it's running to clean the carbon off the valves. Ground can be weak, take it loose and clean it, as all connections. Carb is a crapshoot. You can just pour a little fuel in the carb to see if it fires. Actually should be torn down and rebuilt. Disconnect the fuel tank line. Mine was completly dry and full of crap. I rebuilt it before even trying to fire it up and ran the fuel pump off a gallon gas can because you know that tank can't be in good shape after sitting so long. Good luck. It's satisfying hearing something run after so many years.

 

I removed all the plugs- they are autolite 124's. [I thought AP45's were stock. I dunno I didn't put 'em in] any way- they looked dirty so I cleaned and gapped them all. I didn't have any Marvel so I introduced a few tablespoons of 5w-30 into the spark plug hole, let it sit fot 10-15 minutes, rotated the crank shaft by hand, and then I did it again.
Right now I'm trying to remove the ground strap from the block to clean it up and re-install. Also trying to figure out the voltage regulator and where each wire is supposed to go.
I got 4 lines coming from the harness that plugs into the regulator. The first set [starting at the top] is green, then a set of two yellow wires. Then a I think a set of two white wires. Then lastly a single wire. Is the yellow & white sets supposed to go to somewhere individually or are they supposed to be wrapped together forming one line?
do you know whatI'm trying to desrcibe?

 

whatI'm trying to desrcibe

gwf1985 is a great "electrics man"! He'll B along shortly.

The best bronk prts exchange in our area (besides MY house ) is bronco bones, a yahoo grp. (ME to NJ). Owner swaps sales etc. Brought to U by the same guys that have BYOB @ May. Check em out in B. Driver! Where R U? Whadda U need?

Marvel has some additives that'll help cut thru, 30 W is a low 2nd, but workable...give THAT over nite.

I like his idea bout rotatin the oil pump shaft. Patients rather than brute force is the ticket. Whatever oil is in there will burn off fast when started.

Keep talkin 2 us...

 

Lets see if this loads.

 

That's what it is supposed to look like!? Oh boy- this thing is a mess! I better start from scratch.

With a fully charged battery I tested the voltage it is at 12.8v.
When I turn the key to attempt start up, it drops to 5.5v-6.5v.

What is that telling us? Bad Starter Motor? To much resistance in the Starter line between solonoid and starter motor? if Im getting 12.8v at the strter before the crank the lead should be in good enough shape...right?

The engine turns over very smoothly[by hand]. I do not suspect frozen cyliders or something similar.

 

Hey North42, I have a 3-point voltmeter test that is very simple and works every time. Let me know if it works for you.

 

Sounds like rotating freely now, electrics R next.
Do U hear the gear pop outta it's lill home & hit the fly wheel? >turns over very smoothly[by hand< Is it "spining" the engine then snapin back when key released? May B bad starter?(as per gwf above). B 4 it moved the 8 pistons slo/hard, easier now?
Gettin pretty close to running now!
Last 'ill B fuel...
(oil, air, water, fire, fuel, ahe?)

 

Are those older style starters rebuild-able? available?
Since this all began; I installed a new Voltage Regulator, A new Ignition Coil, new batt terminals and hot side 4 gauge lead from batt to Starter solenoid/relay.
I cleaned and tested resistance to Starter to Starter Sol/Relay lead & Batt Neg to Block ground.
Removed and cleaned out Holley 4 barrel 1850-4 carb.
Cleaned and gapped all plugs.

Its going to need new Spark plugs and ignition wires. I Had a ignition wire in my box that goes from Distributor to IG Coil.

I am going to remove starter and bench test.

 

yes & no.
Usta B U could get stuff easy (auto prts store). Like drum break prts ( 1 spring, 1 retainer, etc) now all U can get is a bag a stuff that replaces all the "miscellaneous" prts, needed or not. With the started (if it is 1 a the probs) you'd hafta take it apart then search a fasenall store or something, then go to a re-winder, etc. No prts stores have what U need to rebuild. I'd say ID if that's it - & if so - get a starter.

 

well I'm going to bench test it-[the starter]
What are the spec's? I'm having trouble even getting a part number.
Should have a certain amp draw/voltage drop when cranking right?

 

Maybe this will help;





Good luck.