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Six Door Centurion F350 Powerstroke Project

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  #16  
Old 06-29-2011, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BrettMavriK
Allrighty,
(Flame Suit On)
If you don't already like the 9 inch mod, boy you are really gonna' hate me when you see what else is in store for this rig.
I can only see one reason to hate you, and it is not the build of your truck, after all it is your truck. The reason I can see if that if you hurt or kill one of your innocent children, OR some other innocent person / persons when your axle breaks. They or your children after all have no choice to ride with you, or drive next to you, safe or not.

Again, I really don't like words put in my mouth, so I thought I would post this, and not to flame here, but to clarify my position.

Enough said, good luck with your project.

David
 
  #17  
Old 06-29-2011, 03:29 PM
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That's Just it!!! Your Misinterpretation...
"A Far Cry From A Bronco"
It's NOT a Bronco...It's an F350 Crew Cab Long Bed Diesel With an extra set of doors and a Bronco SHORTY Bed with a Bronco Fiberglass Top in place of where a Long Bed with Dually Fender Flares were. The Weight gain may be just a Hair more...
My Axles will be turning 37"x13.5" Toyo Open Country Tires on 18x10" Aluminum Rims, hence the necessary 4.56 gears to bring the final drive ratio back to near stock.
10,000 lbs. Loaded? Way Off.
Let go to more like 7500 lbs. Loaded to be more Realistic. (My Family and I are thin and fit...)
and the 9 in Big Bearing Style Tapered Roller Bearings could handle what I pull just fine. My friend has a 1976 Ford Camper Special with a big block & 9 inch and has pulled a 6000 lb. trailer with it for over 15 years on one bearing change.

All in all...I'm really not worried about it in the least bit.



Originally Posted by dizzyfingers03
What size tires you plan on running? 4.56s with smaller street tires and a first-gen power stroke isn't gonna cruise well. The ideal cruise rpm on that engine is like 2,000 to 2,200. Just thought I'd ask.

I don't think we're understanding each other correctly here. I (and as far as I can tell, the others) aren't questioning that the axle will hold up the right-foot abuse and/or the power output of a 7.3. In fact it sounds like you've built it up quite well to handle a lot of power.

What I'm (and others it seems) concerned about is the dead weight of such a rig. You're gonna be a far cry from a bronco there. I'm guessing, you'll scale in around 10,000 lbs, fueled, and carrying 6 people, before cargo and/or trailers. My concerns were that a 9" axle will wear out bearings and such quickly when subjected to that much weight. And, the diff fluid is gonna get warmer in a 9" compared to a 10.25" under the same driving. The Sterling is a full floater designed to spend it's hole life under a heavy, loaded truck.

At the end of the day, it's your truck and your money. Do what you want and enjoy the build. I, for one, look forward to watching a build like that.
 
  #18  
Old 06-29-2011, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BrettMavriK
Let go to more like 7500 lbs. Loaded to be more Realistic. (My Family and I are thin and fit...)
and the 9 in Big Bearing Style Tapered Roller Bearings will handle what I pull just fine. My friend has a 1976 Ford Camper Special with a big block & 9 inch and has pulled a 6000 lb. trailer with it for over 15 years on one bearing change.

All in all...I'm really not worried about it in the least bit.
Again, what you can tow or how much horsepower a axle can be made to take HAS NOTHING to do with how much it can carry.

WOW is all I can say.

Each to there own, something my Dad always said about leading a horse to water, but you can't make it drink comes to mind here enuff said.

David
 
  #19  
Old 06-29-2011, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BrettMavriK
RLA2005,
Thank you so much! You have got my gears in this project spinning once again.
I really appreciate the knowledge man...that's what these forums are for!!!

The Solution:
I went to the Brea Auto Electric website and looked at their Speed Sensor Relocater product and That Design Definitely Is The Solution.
HOWEVER, $300 for a piece of aluminum with pressed in steel reluctor squares is a little steep for me, considering I have access to a machine shop and could make one myself for peanuts comparatively.
The Challenge therein would be the MATH to get it right. A VSS needs 8,000 pulses per mile. The PSOM needs 4 times that amount because it is after the reduction on the ring gear, but before it is sent to the computer, it is divided back by 1/4th (in layman's terms). SO, I would then use the wiring to the F350's PSOM and straight wire it to a magnetic pick up VSS of 8,000 PPM, and install a reluctor of a given number of steel teeth right on the Borg Warner 4407's Flange Style Output Before the Drive Shaft. Problem Solved!!!!
EXCEPT - Figuring out the math to do so correctly...
The Known's:
-The Flange Output on the back of the BW 4407 is 5-3/16"
-A VSS from, say a '97 Ford Explorer 4R70W (AODE) should have the 8k PPM
base readout and should wire right up to the '96 F350's PSOM harness after it is shortened up considerably.
- I could fabricate a bracket (I own a Welding and Fab Shop) to hold the VSS in Position 1mm off the Output Shaft Custom Reluctor
- The Reluctor Disc non magnetic base material of 5/16" thick Aluminum will be made to 8" in diameter to keep magnetic interference from the Steel 5-3/16" Output Flange Diameter.
- The Steel Pick Ups for the VSS will be screwed into threaded holes with Red Loc-Tite on the outside diameter of the Aluminum Reluctor Disc.
- The Steel Pick Ups will be nothing more than 6mmx10mm hex head black carbon steel bolts.
The Unknown:
-The quantity of pick ups and spacing to attach to the reluctor disc to correctly send the right PPM through the VSS to the Computer.

Any Math Guru's Out There...???
I've got an idea of an equation, but my math isn't all that spectacular, unless we are dealing with Geometry.

Almost got this thing licked.
Here is some info from other threads on this topic:

Relocate Rear Abs/Vss Sensor?? - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®
Swap Ford 8.8 to 9
 
  #20  
Old 06-29-2011, 05:29 PM
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just 1 more opinion , the weight of the truck can easily come to around 10,000# and with that 9" axle under it big bearing or not , well it would be like putting a elephants body on a set of mules legs !
 
  #21  
Old 06-29-2011, 06:02 PM
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BrettMavriK you are an ***. Your truck as you decribed it will weigh in at approx 8-9,000lbs. Which at 1/2 of that is 4-4500 which is TOO MUCH WEIGHT for a 9" axle to carry. HP holding capacity had nothing to do with WEIGHT CAPACITY.

Now. her eis a link to put a VSS on a 9" Relocate Rear Abs/Vss Sensor?? - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®
 
  #22  
Old 06-29-2011, 10:40 PM
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Wow...didn't think this 9" idea would twist up so many panties like it has...
Tell you what...
I'll build this thing and beat the snot out of the 9 inch just for a test for all you naysayers. I will flog the truck on a familiar deep mud run not far from here. I'll pull my friend's 6000 lb. trailer at 100 miles an hour down the freeway. I'll do a brake stand burnout with the rear brakes disengaged with some old 37 inch Nitto Mud Grapplers I have laying around until the tires blow out. Then I'll pull the axle apart and inspect everything for wear and breakage. Anything to shut you up about this because this thread is definitely going the wrong way, and I'm already thinking about deleting the whole damn thing and posting it elsewhere.
The later model axles under the 3/4 tons were well chosen by Ford for more than just strength. They were chosen because they definitely will last over 100,000 miles under the work loads that may be bestowed upon them from various owners. The other reason is cost over quantity; where the Sterling pricing couldn't be beat.
I will not be using this truck for that heavy duty service! Period! Nowhere near it actually....

Guys, PLEASE!?!?!? The truck will weigh 9-10,000 lbs??? How the Hell do you figure this!??!?! Weight of the F350 right now is 6500lbs. So you are going to tell me that upon removing the Dually LONG BED to add 2 doors, a shorty Bed Bronco back end with a Bronco fiberglass top, AND Removing the Behemoth Sterling 10.25" Dually Rear End in favor of a built to the hilt light weight 9 inch is going to add 3500 lbs!?!?!?!?!
SHOW ME HOW YOU FIGURED THIS OUT....
I'm sticking with the 35 spline, Strange Nodular Iron Housing, Richmond Geared, Detroit Locker, 1330 U-Joint Billet Steel Pinion Yoke, Tapered Big Bearing, Cadillac Calipered Disc Brake Ford Nine Inch Rear End.
You don't like it? Tough Shyte!!!
That's not what this thread is about. It's about building something unique that I'm not sure has been done before, solving obstacles, being creative, making mistakes and correcting them along the way, and maybe learning something by keeping an open mind.
I'm through debating on the validity of the axle I'm choosing for this build. It's not your rig, it's mine.
You don't approve of what I'm doing? Hey that's cool...
There's a hundred other threads out there you can naysay to your heart's content. Either way, it doesn't matter to me, but This Particular Thread is moving forward, onward, and upward or elsewhere.
'Brett
 
  #23  
Old 06-29-2011, 10:55 PM
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With your attitude elsewhere sounds the best!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
  #24  
Old 06-29-2011, 11:15 PM
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Opinions are like a-holes, everyone has one right or wrong.

Go ahead, build it-it sounds awesome.
 
  #25  
Old 06-29-2011, 11:19 PM
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Really!?!?
Why don't you re-read the thread from the beginning. Pretty much after the name calling, I got fed up and wasn't going to be so nice any longer.
It's not my attitude...It's everyone else attacking me for ideas and things they THINK they are the authority on, when they don't really have all the facts straight...
Hey, no problem at all...
This is Brett and his Big Centurion Project Signing Off



by naysayers and jerks



You know what...I'm not going anywhere but forward from here on out with this build.
I'll just choose to ignore the naysayers and bigots here as if they're non-existent
 
  #26  
Old 06-30-2011, 11:28 AM
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SOME ONE HAS A ATTITUDE PROBLEM , might be why he needs a 6 door truck so wife and kids can ride in the rear !
 
  #27  
Old 06-30-2011, 08:50 PM
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ok guys seriously lets not bash him for his project, i kinda like the centurion trucks, heck id buy one if they didn't cost an arm and a leg plus ga$...


@op: I do see where they are coming from, granted you want to save weight however a 9" axle isnt going to be 100% up to par for the weight your going to be placeing on it (im assumeing the axle is what they are fussing about) so what I would like to recommend and strongly suggest for your safety and your family safety is using a better built axle like the sterling or dana axles, they would be better suited for the weight reqs your going to be putting on them with this project. in something like this you will be placing a lot of demand on your axles, springs, and shocks as well as other parts, I really would suggest you consider using stronger parts and parts that are really beefy and better suited for the task, I can't speak for the others but personially im not going to bash you, and hope you do post lots of pics, but i am going to suggest you at least consider the advice we give you for your project so you can enjoy the truck and remain safe.

but one thing is correct, its your project so do what feels good to you and just be safe and careful ok.
 

Last edited by Jaime74656; 07-01-2011 at 12:20 AM. Reason: correct mistype
  #28  
Old 06-30-2011, 10:57 PM
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Thumbs down 9" for this project

Originally Posted by BrettMavriK
making mistakes and correcting them along the way
Like finding out the hard way that the parts aren't meant to do what you are going to ask of them?

Unfortunately, this
Originally Posted by BrettMavriK
and maybe learning something by keeping an open mind.
is promptly cancelled by this
Originally Posted by BrettMavriK
I'm through debating on the validity of the axle I'm choosing for this build. It's not your rig, it's mine.
While the overall build sounds interesting and properly done should be sharp as hell, count me in the camp of don't use the 9". Look at it this way, the 9" is rated at approximately 3300 lbs, now standard engineering calls for a 33% safety factor. So something rated at 1000lbs is "USUALLY" good for 1300lbs. Keep in mind that is also at the end of its safe range, and IF a failure happens it will be a catastrophic major failure. Using the 3300lb rating on a 9", you can figure on roughly a rating of 3900 lbs before you have gone beyond the engineering tolerance. All the extra goodies are not going to help on the weight rating of the axle. What the axle can handle in power and what it can carry in weight are two different things. The Strange case, heavier shafts, etc all will let it handle the power from the 7.3 with no issue. Thats not a big deal... for years guys have built 9" rears and run them on the dragstrip behind 800-1000hp motors. BUT, the load bearing capability is still limited by the size of the axle bearing, and that will be the weak point in the setup. In this case, even using your figure of 7500lbs, you are already depending on the engineering tolerance to hold up to things (7500/2 = 3750) and if it ends up being 8000lbs, you are already over the engineering tolerance.

Now, I spent the past 15 years, before I retired, running Heavy Haul. Tractors, machinery, farm equipment, etc. and I can tell you that a catastrophic axle failure is NOT something you want to see or experience. Several times I watched guys come in with rears rated at 36000 lbs and watched them load them up way beyond what they were capable of. When they failed, they FAILED. Axle and wheel assembly's coming out the axle tube. Bent tubes, bearing's burned and seized on the rear end. Fortunately, none of the ones I rescued by coming in with the right equipment to pull the trailer had injuries, but still expensive lessons were learned. Now I have built Frankenstein's, am building a Frankenstein, and will continue to build Frankenstein's. However, there is also a time to not just do something because it's there. If its a money issue, the you need to sell the 9" and save the money and do a 10.25 or D80 for the rear. If it's just doing it to do it, then step back, take a deep breath and ask yourself what you are going to accomplish and is it worth the risk. Afterall, you can beat your head with a hammer just because you have a hammer in your hand, but does that really mean that you should?

If you look at the thread, most everybody saying to skip the 9" rear are all elder or senior users. Check the posting history, and you will see that there is a wealth of knowledge and experience being shared by us. We have been down the road, tried things, broken more things and learned the hard way what works and doesn't work.
 
  #29  
Old 06-30-2011, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BrettMavriK
Wow...didn't think this 9" idea would twist up so many panties like it has...
Tell you what...
I'll build this thing and beat the snot out of the 9 inch just for a test for all you naysayers. I'll pull my friend's 6000 lb. trailer at 100 miles an hour down the freeway. Then I'll pull the axle apart and inspect everything for wear and breakage.
'Brett
no.you wont be inspecting anything after such a test Brett.
the axle will be no longer,nor would you im afriad.
reconsider you plans,or you put your,your families,and everyone sharing the road around you,in serious risk of injury or death.

some may have worded this in a way that offended you.however when life or death is on the line,what can you expect?

no one can tell you not to do it.thank god we have state safety inspections here so i know me,and my loved ones are not at risk with vehicles unfit for the roads.

you can take offense and leave,carry on about your business,and risk death.or worse.you live through a horrific accident but a family member or more dies,and you have to live with the consequences of your actions.

if you don't heed the advice given here.i wish you and yours a safe journey.
just do me a favor,should you ever see my truck in passing,flash your lights to give me warning.i'll gladly wave and thank you as i pull well over off the road to let you by.
 
  #30  
Old 07-01-2011, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
no.you wont be inspecting anything after such a test Brett.
the axle will be no longer,nor would you im afriad.
reconsider you plans,or you put your,your families,and everyone sharing the road around you,in serious risk of injury or death.

[...snip...]

if you don't heed the advice given here.i wish you and yours a safe journey.
just do me a favor,should you ever see my truck in passing,flash your lights to give me warning.i'll gladly wave and thank you as i pull well over off the road to let you by.
I would hope that you Brett will at least consider what were saying about the 9" and reconsider but it is your project and your call, and I would ask that if you see any of our trucks after you do the freakinstein (which one day I may do one my self because I like odd looking vehicles) you at least flash your lights so we may pull off and move aside for your truck...were not trying to be mean or dbags (least im not) but were just expressing concern for you because most of us have experience with these things and some of us have even broken things on our trucks the hard way just to learn so we do have a vast welth of knowledge, that we have no problem sharing with others because thats why were here, to help others and teach others so they may do things them selves...
 


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