Hello, here is a picture of my dusty Ford F100, it came with a 352 engine (power sterring)and a Manual stick TRansmission.

This truck runs but the Starter give up, and the water pump has a leak and the shaft of the water pump wobbles real bad,,the bearrings /seals are gone bad.
How hard is to replace the wather pump? I purchased the starter and water pump two days ago..so I'm ready to get durty.

Thanks.



militos.

 

Should be able to pull it off in a couple hours. Dive in get your knuckles dirty.


John

 

Dive in and get your knuckles scraped on the radiator is a better term.

Good solid looking truck... the bed lines up nice with the cab.

This is one of the best starter jobs there is.

If you have to remove the alternator, do not let it hang by the wires, you can use a metal wire to hang it so it does not pull on the electric wiring.

After you get the fan bolts loosened, you can use a 1/4 inch ratchet and socket to take them out. When going back on, line up the pump flange with a bolt hole at the top so you know where it is when you put the fan and spacer back on.

Get gaskets and a termostat. Best replace the thermostat while you have it apart.

I use #2 Form a gasket on the water pump and thermostat gaskets.

When refilling the radiator, leave the level down about 2 1/2 inches (if you can touch the level with your index finger tip , it is just right. If you over fill, it will over flow.... just the nature of these old girls.

Disconnect the battery before doing the starter, inspect the teeth on the flywheel ring gear while you have the starter off. Do not over tighten the starter wire nut, use a backup on the lower nut to keep it from turning. This goes for all electrical nuts with a lower support nut.

Good luck.

 

Hayayayayyy!!! Viva viva!! you guys are great!! just by reading everyones sugestions I feel like if I'm done with the labor!!!


Thanks very much.

And Yes,,this is a very stright body truck,,no Rust at all except for that littel rusted throuhg in the Hood lip..but other than that,,, this truck is solid...I love this trucks,,I can stay with out one for too long.



militos.

 

Suggestion on water pump removal and reinstallation. Make a diagram or tracing of the water pump on a piece of cardboard. The diagram should have all the bolt holes drawn on it. When you remove a bolt from the water pump put it where it belongs on your drawing. You will discover that some bolts are longer than others, and you want to put them back where they belong.

 

Nice truck militos. Is this the same truck you were installing a new transmission? What transmission is in this truck? Take pictures of everything before you disassemble. It only takes a few minutes. You may never need them, but in case you do, they help. My water pump on my race car is starting to squeal. I'm going to have to replace it soon. Have fun getting dirty!

 

Wills1966F100, NO,, that one is Long gone,,for some strange reasons.

Than after that one I had a 1961 UNibody short bed big window with a 352 and a Automatic transmission,,That one ended on some one up in Washington State.

This one is a real nice one...I love the Power sterring, and the power brakes,,plus it have a limited slip diferential.

I'll make this one my priority...as son as I finish another project that I have in my garage right now..(1963 Forl Falcon Futura HArd top 2 door, 6Cyl/170, Auto), The truck is very solid,,nice body, and nice power train for hauling. more info and pictures to come as soon as I install the wather pump and the Starter,,plus I need to clean lot's of cleaning begfore I cna take more pictures.

Thanks.

militos.

 

I have a question about the fan. On GM(Goverment Motors) water pumps the fan is held on by studs. The stud usually have to come completely out. Of course one end of the stud is longer then the other one. The short end goes into the water pump. But it seems like everyone puts them back on wrong. Are Fords the same way? I was reading the detailed instructions and didn't see anything about that and was just wondering.

 

@ OBP

66 The Ford fan has 4 bolts that connect to the pump that have to be removed from the pump but can be left in the fan shaft.


John

 

Just completed the same procedure and appears members have made suggestions that pretty much cover all the bases so I will add my $.02, IMO found removing the radiator makes the project much easier. Place 5 gal bucket and drain what little water remains in the radiator, then remove the 4-6 bolts that secure it to the support then removing the fan and water pump is by far less labor intensive. As mentioned, note position of each bolt for the water pump, both length and their location is important, as well as, the brackets.

Had to take a second look to see if my black 65 was still there until noticed yours is a 66. Have the same/similar rims on my other 65 and receive quite a few good comments.

 

This one has some heavy duty features and very nice to have upgrades.

The 352 option (includes 11" HD clutch and 1125-lb. front springs) having 3-speed cruise-o-matic or Warner T-85 overdrive transmissions came with a dana 44 limited slip rear end with a 3.50:1 or a 3.54:1 gear ratio. If it has a NP 435 4-speed transmission came with a dana 60-2 limited slip rear end with either a 3.54:1 or a 4.10:1 gear ratio.

 

Hello all. I was away for a wile ,,but I'm back with good news.
I fixed the water pump, and some other vaccum tubing issues that were preventing the vaccum advance thingy from moving when taking off and when loads were added to the truck.

The truck runs great,,I have driving it for trips of 200 miles and more arround the Coast of Ca. and the central valley, like modesto stockton Visalia and more.

One question I do have for all of those Experts, How do I service the Oil on the Rear End? and what type of Oil should I use? I never had a rear end like this in any of my cars..here are the specs from the rear end.

A9 = Dana 60.3 Rear Axle / 3.54-1 / Limited Slip / 3,300 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity,

Thanks very much every one .

militos

 

Where did you come up with this wild mule p!ss?

1965/66 F100 2WD 352 came standard equipment with 1175 lb. load rate front coil springs, 1250 lb. load rate front coil springs optional.*

1965/66 F100 2WD 352: Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual all syncromesh standard equipment,* Borg Warner T-85N 3 speed w/Overdrive and MX Cruise-O-Matic optional.

Optional 4 speed manual could be a Borg Warner T-18, or a New Process 435.

1965 F100 352: Ford 9" standard equipment, if optional Limited Slip was ordered, FoMoCo either installed Dana 44 or Dana 60.2.

1966 F100 352: Same as above applies, but Dana 60.3 w/Limited Slip also available as an option.

Basic 1965/66 F100 was a 'stripper' Standard Cab 115" wheelbase Cab & Chassis (no 'back of cab equipment') with 240 I-6 and Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual, EVERYTHING ELSE was optional!

* 1965/66 F100 Camper Special package included: 1250 lb. load rate front coil springs, 300 I-6 or 352, 4 speed manual or MX Cruise-O.

 

HUyuyuyyy!! Hayayayayyayyyy!!

 

If there is not a drain on the rear end, remove the cover to drain and be sure to clean out the gunk and metal. Put in a new gasket using #2 Form a Gasket.

OR

Use an oil suction pump to pull the old oil out, it is real slow and a pain. I guess you could syphon it out but the pull type suction pump works well. After removing the old oil, you can flush with some 30 wt and syphon that out.

I always use 90 wt for replacement but I am sure there are a lot of opinions on what is proper. I figgure the old 90 worked for 50 or 60 years, fresh 90 will work another 10 which is all I ask from any oil.