You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
The previous owner, in addition to hooking up a manual button for the glow plugs, also hooked up a toggle switch which controls the fuel shutoff solenoid.
I wasn't able to get a straight story on why this was done -- I got some mumbling about a relay going bad -- but to make a long story short, I want to get rid of it. It drives me nuts because if the truck isn't running (like it has been lately -- getting air in the lines and won't start) I often forget to turn the switch back off. It's hot all the time since it's wired to the battery, and so I come back days later to a set of dead batteries.
I want to hook it back up to the ignition switch. But I don't know how to do so.
I'm also installing an electric fuel pump and getting rid of the mechanical pump. I've already got a blockoff plate and all that.
What I'd like to do is hook both the fuel shutoff solenoid and the electric fuel pump up to the ignition switch, both preferably through the same relay.
How much current does the fuel shutoff solenoid draw? My electric pump says it takes just a hair over an amp when going full tilt, so unless the solenoid draws a lot more than that, I should be able to get away with a smallish relay.
Any advice? The biggest part of the problem is that I don't have any idea where/how to hook a relay up to the ignition switch. Although I have a wiring diagram, it doesn't make that clear, especially for a diesel.
while I maynot be able to help you out on the relay wiring problems, on the air suction problem I believe there is a fuel/water seperator on your truck, the drains on them DON'T seat properly check that out or bypass it. Goodluck with your other issue's
while I maynot be able to help you out on the relay wiring problems, on the air suction problem I believe there is a fuel/water seperator on your truck, the drains on them DON'T seat properly check that out or bypass it. Goodluck with your other issue's
Hi, yeah -- the water separator has already been bypassed. In fact I'm going to put a valve on the drain line and undo the bypass, since I want to have a separator.
I would hook the FSS wire to the relay. When the FSS is activated, that is when you need the pump to switch on. Any other time is a waste of power because the engine is not running.
I would find a wire coming from the switch on the column that is hot with the key in the run and start postions. Splice into that to run a relay for the pump and FSS. That is what I did on mine. In my case I used the wire in the harness that used to run the coil when it was a gasser.
__________________
DON'T BUY IT ..FAB IT!!!!
81 BRONCO 6.9 IDI, ARP headstuds, 3" dual straight pipes, isspro pyrometer, T18 4 Speed, 10.25 rear, d60 front, 4:10 gears, 37x12.5x16.5 wrangler m/t's (humvee takeoffs), 4" body lift. I am building the Bronco Ford should have! Kentucky Chapter Member
Here is a schematic of what the starting system should be:
Check the threads at the top of the forum for information on the glow plug system that is on your truck. hope this helps also this schematic may differ from your truck it is for a newer model but it should be close.
You can power your FSS from its original factory source, which is directly off the GP relay's small post (important - SMALL post) with the red wire which is hot in start and run. The wire should run to the FSS, then the temperature switch, then the cold timing advance and cold idle advance.
Run a wire from the same post to your relay's 85 terminal, ground to the 86 terminal, battery to the 30 terminal, and your pump to the 87 terminal. It would be advisable to put a fuse between the battery and the 30 terminal, rated at 1.5x or so of your pump's rating.
A standard automotive relay typically has a 40A rating on the 30-87 terminals, so you're well within the limits. You could likely wire the pump directly to the same feed as the FSS at 1A, but I'd bet the pump surges at startup and you don't want to pop the fuse on your GP trigger/ FSS circuit and be stuck somewhere.
__________________
____________________________________
1994 F250 XLT HD 7.3L IDI E4OD 4x4
Banks Sidewinder (w/g), D60 Front, Detroit Lockers, 4 Wheel Disc, Hydroboost, Buckstop Bumper, Warn Winch
1976 Bronco 5.0L (Awaiting 4BT), 1967 Mercedes-Benz 230S Fintail I-6
"And god created Mine Rescue; so firefighters could have heroes too"
Deleted the mechanical fuel pump, ran all new fuel lines, and installed a new fuel selector valve and electric fuel pump. The truck fired right up, hiccuped a few times, then ran normal.
The real test will be to let it sit for a few days and see if it will restart.
Thanks for the help guys.
__________________
'94 F-250 XLT 4x4 SRW, 7.3 NA (ATS 093 waiting to be put on), E4OD, 3.55, Alaskan telescopic camper, ATAS 120 and various ham radio gear (320k)
'91 Explorer XLT, 4.0, A4LD (192k), '96 Mercedes E300D (223k), '94 KX80, '96 PW80
Previously: '84 F-350 DRW, 6.9 NA, T-19 and '86 F-250 DRW, 6.9 IDI turbo (ATS 088), T-19, GVOD
Fuel shutoff solenoid. It's on your injection pump and needs +12V for the pump to get fuel. Cutting the power shuts off the engine.
__________________
'94 F-250 XLT 4x4 SRW, 7.3 NA (ATS 093 waiting to be put on), E4OD, 3.55, Alaskan telescopic camper, ATAS 120 and various ham radio gear (320k)
'91 Explorer XLT, 4.0, A4LD (192k), '96 Mercedes E300D (223k), '94 KX80, '96 PW80
Previously: '84 F-350 DRW, 6.9 NA, T-19 and '86 F-250 DRW, 6.9 IDI turbo (ATS 088), T-19, GVOD
Not to rehash old items but I have a ?. There are 2 wires on the connector for the fss. Both are white with red stripe, I believe. Which 1 gets cut and spliced into the relay for an electric lift pump?
Not to rehash old items but I have a ?. There are 2 wires on the connector for the fss. Both are white with red stripe, I believe. Which 1 gets cut and spliced into the relay for an electric lift pump?
mine are red w/green stripe on my '93.but anyway,either one.they are both the same wire so to speak.hooked directly together in the clip.when you turn the key forward,both sides of this line becomes hot.so it makes no difference where you tap into it.
whats important to remember is then after you cut the line,that you now have three wires to go into a connecter.the two sides to the line you just cut,along with a now new line.so you'll have to use a 3 way butt connecter or simply hook two wires together into one side of the butt connecter (that's all i did.) the blue connecter was used to simply extend this side of the wire from the fss clip.i took that into a yellow butt,where i crimped it together back with the other fss line i cut,then hooked my larger gauge into the single side over to the relay for,important: not for power for e-pump.to trigger open relay only.
you may be tempted to use a blue scotch lock connecter for this because they're much easier.resist the urge!
e-pumps are rated for just a couple amps.
iv been using a 5 amp issue free for my duralift/transicold.
__________________
'93 BRG/BLK F250HD XLT 4x4 1st Gen Navistar 444ci IDI Diesel w/ Intercooled 2nd Gen Banks Sidewinder Turbo, Built E40D, Hydroboost Brakes, Dually, Dump, & Plow
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
