Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Ford Vans and other vehicles > 1968-2013 Full Size Vans
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1968-2013 Full Size Vans Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #16  
Old 05-22-2013, 05:02 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 6,512
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by B-O-B'03 View Post
Man am I glad I came across this post, my '97 E150

Is it possible I have accidentally disconnected a vacuum line some place to create this issue?


-Brian
Brian try this link---I posted a few photos that might be helpful: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...-problems.html

If you need more info let us know!
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 05-22-2013, 04:19 PM
B-O-B'03 B-O-B'03 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11
B-O-B'03 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
Brian try this link---I posted a few photos that might be helpful: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...-problems.html

If you need more info let us know!
Thanks JWA,

I opened things up and it looks like all of the vacuum lines are attached and the 3 different vacuum solenoids I found seem to be operating. There are the 2 up in the access hole on the top of the dash and one down beside the black blower plenum under the dash by the passenger foot well.

As near as I can tell the top left actuator is the blend door, the right one is the defrost / vent / floor actuator and the one in the foot well is for recirculate / outside air?

No matter what position any of them are in, once the heater core gets hot all I get from the vents is hot air. Even from the rear unit.

Any ideas, are there more actuators some place?

Thanks for your help.

-Brian
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 05-22-2013, 09:10 PM
B-O-B'03 B-O-B'03 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11
B-O-B'03 is starting off with a positive reputation.
OK, I spent the afternoon taking the dash area apart, there is an electrically driven device on the side of the blower housing that controls the hot/cold blend door.

It turns out that I actually have the Ford electrical and vacuum trouble shooting manual

I pulled the blend door actuator off and plugged it back in, changed the position of the temperature control **** and the actuator was working.

Then I took the actuator apart and took the gear and shaft out of it that fits in the end of the blend door shaft and it seems the door shaft is broken, I cannot find a way to fit the actuator shaft in it such that it would move the door.

So, I took the cover of the plenum off, exposing the heater core and behind that is the blend door, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get that door out, unless I (possibly) remove the heater core. (not sure if that is going to do it either)

Does anyone have the procedure for removing the heater core and replacing the blend door??

Thanks.

-Brian
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 05-22-2013, 10:26 PM
EffoneHunded's Avatar
EffoneHunded EffoneHunded is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 118
EffoneHunded is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.EffoneHunded is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
a couple years ago i had to replace the blend door on my 97 e150 and i know i had to remove the heater core.

book instructions for heater core removal

1. Working in the engine compartment, remove and plug heater inlet and outlet hoses from the heater core. Note: Some models use quick disconnect couplings on the heater hoses and require coupling tools. My Note: i just cut the heater core hoses as i did not have the tool to remove couplings but what i did have was aviation snips and plenty of hose clamps.

2. Remove the hush panel along the lower edge of the instrument panel on the passenger side of the vehicle by gently prying it out of its retainers

3.
Remove the heater core cover screws from both sides of the heater case.

4.
Remove the heater core cover, being careful not to tear any sealing material that may be in place.

5.
Remove the heater core.

the blend door removal was all blind as the only thing i could see was the front of my dash, in my next life i would like to have eyes on the end of each finger.

good luck i hope you get it working
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 05-23-2013, 06:18 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 6,512
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
Brian as you've discovered the blend door located in the heater core plenum or box can also be a problem. You've also found the "easy" way to access the heater core as the factory manual procedure is to first remove the entire dash board!

Here's something I posted a while back: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/97...r-problem.html By now its a bit after the fact but maybe helpful anyway.

Your heater core needs to be disconnected from the supply/return hoses which requires the so-called quick connect fittings. These are under the hood, should be easily identifiable. Once those have been successfully removed the heater core should pull out leaving the blend door accessible.

The Quick Disconnect fittings can be removed by way of a specialized tool (OEM/Heater hose disconnect tool (27106) | Heater Hose Disconnect Tool | AutoZone.com) for the job of a suitable pair of stout needle nose or Channel-Lok pliers will work too. At the moment I don't have any images of those fittings as installed, I've eliminated my own since adding a non-factory rear heating system. Here's another link to a thread that might be helpful: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/52...nect-tool.html

BTW the blend door and actuator or drive motor are available as separate items on eBay. Ford sells only the entire heater core case, not just the blend door. This of course assumes Ford still isn't selling just the blend doors in 2013?
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 05-23-2013, 06:39 PM
B-O-B'03 B-O-B'03 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11
B-O-B'03 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks JWA and EffoneHunded,

I found a blend door on ebay for about $40 as well as a new heater core, but how the !@#$ do you get the !#@%$# plastic hose retainer pieces off of the old heater core?

I am about ready to destroy them, if they are replaceable.

I also found there is a hot water control valve, under the body, that controls the rear heater that I suspect must be stuck open.

One more thing, the check valve the is hidden with the vacuum tank, can I just put another one in the line some place? anyone know of a part number?

I sure hope the new owners (who ever they are) appreciate all the pain and agony I have gone through here.

I appreciate all of the helpful suggestions.

-Brian
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 05-24-2013, 07:25 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 6,512
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
Brian I know your frustration with the fittings---you'll chuckle at yourself if you ever self discover how they work, what to do to release them.

Your '97 must have the factory rear heat & A/C unit yes? If so there shouldn't be a factory-supplied coolant valve---much like the front its the blend doors that control if you're heating or cooling (assuming compressor is running anyway.) There is a vacuum servo on the rear heater case but its to open/close the refrigerant flow to the evaporator.

I've tried to get an image of the front heater core fittings to better describe how they're released; couldn't do that very easily though. You can "destroy" them easily enough but even after the female ends of the hoses will still be tough to pull loose. Try twisting them around the heater core tubes carefully to loosen them before working to free them.

There is a lock and an O-ring needed for each fitting, they've available from Ford or aftermarket too I'm sure, cost was about $30 complete. (If I can find my receipts before you do something I'll post Ford part numbers for those pieces.) Do keep in mind on your year there will most likely be two different sizes, 5/8" and 3/4"; later models used just the 5/8".

Its just as easy to cut the quick connect fittings off the factory hoses and replace with standard worm-drive clamps---many do this and its not a problem.

Takes longer for me to type this than you to do it I'll bet. If you're still frustrated PM for my phone and I'll try talking you through this.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 05-24-2013, 08:01 AM
uwss uwss is offline
New User
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1
uwss is starting off with a positive reputation.
After two days of troubleshooting the problem, I found that the a/c switching to defrost is caused by a bad hose. The a/c switching due to acceleration is due to a bad 3 way check valve . IN addition, your air will blow much harder after you replace the check valve. Cost was $14.00 for the part at the local Ford dealer. I cut the hole above the passenger side tire. Total time was about 1 hour. I would suggest that once you access the check valve and hose, you replace all hoses and the 3 way check valve. If you can suck or blow threw the check valve then you know it is bad. If you listen you can hear a slight hiss like I did on mine. Anyway, thanks for all the good posts.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 05-24-2013, 11:20 AM
B-O-B'03 B-O-B'03 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11
B-O-B'03 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Hi JWA,

I did manage to get the hoses off, I just can't get the plastic fittings off of the core tubes and it looks like you have take them off before the tube will pass through the holes in the firewall.

As for the rear heat/ac, it is an after market unit, made by Pro-air, that the conversion company (Explorer) installed, so the heater is controlled by the valve I found in the hot water line under the body. The air always flows through both the heater core and the evaporator in it.

I am still trying to find out if I can just add another check valve in the vacuum circuit ahead of the one that is hidden by the tank, to fix the system switching to the defrost when accelerating on the highway.

Thanks for all of your help.

-Brian
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 05-24-2013, 02:29 PM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 6,512
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
Brian you're correct about the core tubes needing to be completely "clean", nothing attached at all. You can cut the plastic pieces away and either buy new or use the worm drive clamps mentioned.

I also have a Pro-Air rear unit but have never worked on them installed so a bit unaware---thanks for your input on that, now I know.

Here to help if possible but you're almost finished now!
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 05-24-2013, 03:36 PM
B-O-B'03 B-O-B'03 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11
B-O-B'03 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
Brian you're correct about the core tubes needing to be completely "clean", nothing attached at all. You can cut the plastic pieces away and either buy new or use the worm drive clamps mentioned.

I also have a Pro-Air rear unit but have never worked on them installed so a bit unaware---thanks for your input on that, now I know.

Here to help if possible but you're almost finished now!
HI JWA,

Do you have a part number for the clips and does the kit include the O-rings and plastic washers (I seem to have lost one of the O-rings).

Thanks,

-Brian
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 05-24-2013, 03:38 PM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 6,512
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
Got it now---hope you're still tuned in:

If you already have the QD's apart replace all the parts----not "cheap" but better than them failing down the road.

E69Z-18 D434-A

&

E69Z-18 D434-B

Confirm with your parts guys or try NAPA etc etc and use those numbers for cross reference. I believe these clips and O-rings are kinda common to Ford in general so they should be readily available in the aftermarket---cheaper too.

Please let us know if the above isn't correct.

HTH
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 05-24-2013, 09:57 PM
maples01's Avatar
maples01 maples01 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Maryville
Posts: 3,169
maples01 has a good reputation on FTE.maples01 has a good reputation on FTE.maples01 has a good reputation on FTE.
facebook.com/TheCrip Maples01
The door that changes the front from heat to AC, closes off the heater core, that is controlled by an electric motor, so if you ever have either heat or AC up front, you can look forward to replacing it, it's on the side of the unit on the passenger side of the van, I did mine while seated in my wheelchair beside the van, used a nut driver.
__________________
My wheelchair has yet to stop me from wrenching on my vans.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 05-25-2013, 05:09 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA JWA is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 6,512
JWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputationJWA has a superb reputation
A few other things worth mentioning about all this..........

-In Max A/C mode air is recirculated instead of flowing past the heater core, sometimes reducing leaving air temps at the vents a full 10*. It makes a noticeable difference on extremely hot and high humidity days.

-There have been several threads about a "cold air mod" that allows for stopping heater coil coolant flow. I've noticed even in the lowest temp setting in Vent mode air flow is warmer than ambient. I'll be adding a cut off valve to my van in the very near feature, electro-vacuum controlled and separate from the normal factory set-up. This way if I needed warmer air for defrost even in the summer it'll be available by pushing a button, not hand operating a valve under the hood.

Hey Maples---kudos for getting to that pesky blend door and motor---it ain't easy for anyone!
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 05-25-2013, 04:51 PM
B-O-B'03 B-O-B'03 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11
B-O-B'03 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
Got it now---hope you're still tuned in:

If you already have the QD's apart replace all the parts----not "cheap" but better than them failing down the road.

E69Z-18 D434-A

&

E69Z-18 D434-B

Confirm with your parts guys or try NAPA etc etc and use those numbers for cross reference. I believe these clips and O-rings are kinda common to Ford in general so they should be readily available in the aftermarket---cheaper too.

Please let us know if the above isn't correct.

HTH
Hi JWA,

Those seem to be the correct part numbers.

I found everything I need on ebay (heater core, blend door and clips) for $103, with free shipping.

For the heat control to the rear unit I am looking at this
Hot water valve"><font color=Hot water valve" /> Hot water valve">Hot water valve

It might be a good thing to pin in-line with the dash core too, I just need to make sure it is closed with vacuum applied.

Still trying to figure out what to do for the check valve too.

Thanks for all of your help!

-Brian
Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 04:51 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Ford Vans and other vehicles > 1968-2013 Full Size Vans

Tags
2006, 99, ac, blower, box, clean, control, e250, f150, ford, head, heater, hvac, line, located, vacuum

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Everything You Wanted To Know About The IWE System...And Then Some xjcamaro89 2004 - 2008 F150 342 Yesterday 07:45 PM
help with 09 E359 van SuperDutyScaler Super Duty & Heavy Duty 2 06-19-2014 09:13 AM
Vacuum operated heater valve question AK FORD GUY 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 5 04-24-2014 07:42 AM
New member needing advice on 95 E-350 mikekfr 1968-2013 Full Size Vans 12 01-13-2014 06:51 AM
Easy cheap quick fix for Ford defrost/vent problems auric Cooling, Heating, Ventilation & A/C 11 10-28-2013 06:55 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup