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Old 06-21-2011, 11:39 PM
workinstiff workinstiff is offline
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Ford Ranger Fuel Pump Replacement

I just changed the fuel pump on my 2002 2.3L Ranger and if I can do it you can too.
The only things I had to buy were the fuel pump ($240 for an OEM Motocraft at Amazon com) and a T-55 Torx socket ($6 at NAPA). Special tools were NOT needed for the fuel and vapor line connectors.
The easiest way for ordinary folks to access the pump is to remove the bed. It’s not difficult and took me about an hour. First remove the tailgate. For the bed bolts you’ll need the T-55 Torx socket and a breaker bar (a long handled socket wrench). If there is rust involved, you could spray some penetrating lubricant on the bolts first (I didn’t). I put a piece of pvc pipe on the end of the wrench to increase leverage. After a while you can switch to a ratchet. The bolts are about six inches long, with the two forward ones a bit longer. Once the six bolts are out, take off the fuel cap and remove the three screws on the gas filler pipe/hose. Push it through so it hangs down and put the cap back on. Disconnect the electrical connection for the taillights (between the bumper and the bed) and lift the bed off, making sure there’s nothing still connected. I did it with my wife on one side, my teenage daughter on the other and me at the rear. Two strong people could manage it.
There’s the fuel pump on top of the fuel tank. If it’s dead like mine was there probably won’t be pressure in the lines. Check online to see about relieving pressure if you’re concerned. It is also been recommended that you disconnect the battery.
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“Quick disconnect” tools were not required to get the fuel and vapor lines off my pump. Two connectors are of the “pinch” variety, meaning that you just press the colored tab and they come right off. Here’s a short video of the same connectors on a Ranger fuel filter..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCOkKAsD3_s
The larger two connectors just require a small screwdriver and some gentle pushing and pinching/spreading to pull/push the locking clips through the connector. There’s a small “shipping” tab on the plastic clip that should be bent out of the way. Don’t loose the clips! The electrical connection has a simple locking tab. Clean the pump area so that stuff doesn’t fall in the tank.
Next comes the locking ring. It unscrews counter clockwise. Mark how the tabs line up so you can see how far to tighten the ring when reinstalling. There are wrenches available, but a punch and plastic hammer or a screwdriver (with plastic handle) and a regular hammer will work. Don't bang metal on metal over the fuel tank because it might blow you up. Place the screwdriver tip on one of the tabs on the side of the ring and start tapping with the hammer. Be careful, as the tabs will break. Keep tapping and the ring should start to unscrew. Once it’s loose, hold down the top of the pump (because it sits on springs) and unscrew the ring the rest of the way.
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Installation is the reverse. Put the filter in and hold it down making sure that it’s lined up right with the gasket as you screw the ring back on. Tap on the ring tabs until the marks are close to original tightness. Hook up the lines, pulling on them to make sure they’re secure, and plug in the electrical connection. Reconnect the battery. Hop in and turn the key to “ON” (when the dash lights come on) and then off again a few times to build fuel pressure. Next, take a deep breath and see if she starts. Mine did and it was a great feeling! If you can, try to tool around with the bed off. It’s a trip.
My bed went back on pretty easily. Line it up to within about a finger’s width from the back window gasket. Take a flashlight and check that the holes are lined up. Put some oil on the bolt threads. They still will take some muscle to screw them all the way down. Tighten to about 40 ft/lbs if you have a torque wrench or to real tight if you don’t.
Reconnect the taillight plug, bolt the filler pipe back on and you’re good to go!
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:38 AM
tomw tomw is offline
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I have used a large 'water pump pliers' to move the tabs on the lock ring. You can position the jaws and just sqeeze. Less sparkage around potential fuel mix.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:07 AM
workinstiff workinstiff is offline
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Good point about sparks. I've edited my post to mention the danger. Thanks for the pliers tip. I wonder what others have used...
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:22 AM
pawpaw pawpaw is online now
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Welcome to FTE.

Nice write up on changing your fuel pump. Yup most folks that have done this, agree with you that sliding the bed back is the easiest & fastest way to do it.

Edit: Wonder if a strap wrench would work to loosen the fuel pump "crown" type retainer ring???? If so, most strap wrenches are plastic & like the brass tools we used in the Navy when working around flammabale av gas, would offer less chance of sparks!!!! I still have a couple of the brass screwdrivers!!!!

Wish my 99's fuel filter connections would come apart that fast & easy!!!! lol
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:40 PM
tomw tomw is offline
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pawpaw, i have {somewhere} a brass adjustable crescent wrench from the Nav. Not sure where I picked it up during my service.
I don't think a strap wrench would work because the strap would want to 'fall inwards' at the top when you tried to put the tension on. I'll let someone else do the experimenting.
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:40 PM
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2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 94, 99, clip, filter, ford, fuel, lines, location, lock, pump, ranger, replacement, retainer, ring, tighten

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