I'll start by letting you all know I"m an idiot when it comes to these trucks.

It is a 99 ford f250 7.3. It died while driving and I got it towed home. I haven't been good about maintaining certain things so I put in a new fuel filter. I let the key cycle a few times to prime it and tried to start it. Nothing, it just cranks. I opened the fuel filter and it was dry. I poured some fuel in it up to the threads and tried again. It seems to want to start but nothing. Do I need to bleed the system? If I do, how do I do that. Pics would be great. I'm in Reno if anyone is close. Thanks.

Reiner
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When it died, was it like you turned off the switch, or did it chug a bit and die? Can you hear your fuel pump when you turn you key to "on"? (It's located inside the frame rail under your drivers seat. You have time to turn the key, hop out and listen down there, it should run close to 20 seconds)

After you filled up the fuel bowl, and it didn't start, did you open it back up and check the fuel level?

When your' cranking the engine, is your tach moving at all?

Your at the right place, some good wrenchers here, we'll hook you up.

 

It chugged a bit and died .

I don't hear it or feel it working.

After you filled up the fuel bowl, and it didn't start, did you open it back up and check the fuel level? Yes, it appeared to be at the same level. At least there wasn't a notable change in level.

When your' cranking the engine, is your tach moving at all? Yes, a bit.

Your at the right place, some good wrenchers here, we'll hook you up. Thanks I needed to hear that.

 

Well, now there's a problem, won't run without fuel. You should have two fuse boxes, one under the hood, and one under the dash. I may be wrong, but under the hood you should have a Maxi-30 (green I think) that is closest to the cab, in the middle row, you'll want to check to ensure it isn't blown. (best would be get you owners manual and find the fuel pump fuse, cause I'm a bit senile ) That would be a start. Before it died, did the engine sound "louder" than usual? Does your Wait to Start light come on as usual?

 

Well, now there's a problem, won't run without fuel. You got that right!!!


You should have two fuse boxes, one under the hood, and one under the dash. I may be wrong, but under the hood you should have a Maxi-30 (green I think) that is closest to the cab, in the middle row, you'll want to check to ensure it isn't blown. I checked fuses they seem to be in order, I'll check again.

Before it died, did the engine sound "louder" than usual? I don't remember.

Does your Wait to Start light come on as usual? yes.

 

Check the inertia switch for your fuel pump just to be sure it's not tripped. It's located behind the kick panel on the passenger side (under glove box). You will see a hole about 1" dia that you can stick your finger in there and press down.

Then cycle the key and see if you can hear the fuel pump going. If not, double check your fuses again and then check for power at the pump itself. Do you have a test light or multi meter?

Sorta sounds like your fuel pump has called it quits. If you get to that point, here is a good source.
Riffraff Diesel: Bosch Electric Fuel Pump

 

Check your fuses and do you have anyway to pull your codes.

 

I checked fuses and they all are ok. I checked the fuse panel under the hood and under the dash.

The reset button is depressed, if I was pressing the right thing in there.

I don't have any voltage at the fuel pump when I cycle the key on.

I have a code reader and I get p1670, p1212 and p0304.

I jumped the fuel pump directly off the battery and it clicks like it wants to engage but no pumping action. If there is enough fuel/pressure in the system would it respond like this?

I still am wondering why there is no voltage at the fuel pump.

Thanks guys.

 

I'm a little stumped myself. Sure sounds like fuse #19 (20A) under the hood is blown but your WTS light is working.

Not sure what good it will do but you could swap relays under the hood and see if the truck starts. (See the attached files). Relay 30 is for your PCM. Relay 31 is your blower motor and relay 32 is for your IDM.
Swap 31 and 30 and see if the truck starts. If no change, then swap 31 and 32 (using the original blower relay that was in spot 31).

I provided the fuse diagrams for under the hood and under the dash....but I am only talking about the under hood box right now....(just wanted to clarify...)

 

If it turns out to be the pump I just picked up 1 at RockAuto Auto Parts for $177 Goood luck .

 

I would have your batteries load tested and make sure the terminals are clean. You may not have enough juice to activate the relays. When checking for voltage at the fuel pump keep in mind it only stays on for about 20 seconds when you turn on the key.

 

Keep in mind the pump will only have power on it for the first 20 seconds or so after key on and without engine start. You can check your pump by opening the drain valve and turning the key on. If it sprays fuel, the pump is working.

 

WTS light does come on.

I pulled off the rubber boots on the pump just enough to get the multimeter leads in there to make contact, and the boots hold them in. While meter is on the ground by the driver door I turn the key and no voltage. I'm in the 20 seconds.

I haven't done a load test but, internal meter says it is good and it has been on the charger.

I will try relay swap and get back to you guys.

 

Few thoughts:

-Make sure you are using a good ground for testing the fuel pump voltage. If not you will not get a reading. Try across the terminals on the fuel pump. Also check from the hot wire to the frame.

-To rule out a bad ground at the fuel pump you can jump from the frame to the ground terminal. You could also check the resistance between the ground terminal and the frame. It should be under 1 ohm I would think.

-Check your batteries like I previously stated.

-There is a fuel pump relay located by the blinker flasher to the left of the radio. I have never messed with mine but have seen online that's the location.


Good luck...just some basic checks...

 

Loose UVCH? I know everyones been chasing the fuel pump...but wouldnt loose UVCH cause similar problems? I know when mine went out, it started, was running, but then got rough and died and wouldnt start afterwards. It would crank like all get out, but would not catch. It would seem to me that if fuel is getting to the bowl after it being drained, then the fuel pump should be working, maybe not great, but it is working enough to get the bowl filled which should be enough to start it. Therefore, why not at least ohm out the UVCH?