E4OD tranny shifting hard
#16
The TPS is on the other end of the throttle shaft.
I would not unplug this sensor other than to test it and I dough that the TSP is what they unplugged.
The TPS tells the computer how much fuel to supply to the engine and if you have and Auto Transmission when to shift and how much oil pressure to apply to the clutch packs. There are other items the computer does with this information also.
The TPS has three positions, closed throttle, half way open position and wide open throttle.
The computer relearns the TPS closed position every time you start the engine so you do not want to have your foot on the throttle when you start the engine.
Here is some more information on the TPS in this link:
Ford Fuel Injection » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
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I would not unplug this sensor other than to test it and I dough that the TSP is what they unplugged.
The TPS tells the computer how much fuel to supply to the engine and if you have and Auto Transmission when to shift and how much oil pressure to apply to the clutch packs. There are other items the computer does with this information also.
The TPS has three positions, closed throttle, half way open position and wide open throttle.
The computer relearns the TPS closed position every time you start the engine so you do not want to have your foot on the throttle when you start the engine.
Here is some more information on the TPS in this link:
Ford Fuel Injection » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
/
#17
SERVICE CODE 33: VERIFY VACUUM IS PRESENT AT EGR VALVE
Service Code 33 in Key On Engine Running indicates that the EVP sensor input did not change after the EVR solenoid was instructed by the processor to open the EGR valve. Because a Code 84 was not received in the Key On Engine Off Self-Test, it is known that the EVR solenoid functions electrically. It is also known that the EVP sensor is in the expected closed valve range because Code 32 and 34 were not received in either Key On Engine Off or Key On Engine Running Tests.
Possible causes:
-- Vacuum hose leaks
-- Obstructed vacuum hose
-- Obstructed EVR solenoid filter
-- Damaged EVR solenoid.
-- Damaged EVP sensor.
-- Damaged EGR valve
Service Code 33 in Key On Engine Running indicates that the EVP sensor input did not change after the EVR solenoid was instructed by the processor to open the EGR valve. Because a Code 84 was not received in the Key On Engine Off Self-Test, it is known that the EVR solenoid functions electrically. It is also known that the EVP sensor is in the expected closed valve range because Code 32 and 34 were not received in either Key On Engine Off or Key On Engine Running Tests.
Possible causes:
-- Vacuum hose leaks
-- Obstructed vacuum hose
-- Obstructed EVR solenoid filter
-- Damaged EVR solenoid.
-- Damaged EVP sensor.
-- Damaged EGR valve
#19
My 95 F-250 was doing this (BANGing hard shift 1-2-3) after the tune up I did on this past weekend. I was worried myself as to what was going on. Oddly, I lost my axillary trans oil cooler late this afternoon. I took it out and bypassed it with rubber line till I find a replacement.
On my way home from my buds shop she shifted like a caddy... Also it was pouring rain on the way home. Don't know what if any variables are related to this hard shift/poof fine. But wanted to post about it to pick brains.
On my way home from my buds shop she shifted like a caddy... Also it was pouring rain on the way home. Don't know what if any variables are related to this hard shift/poof fine. But wanted to post about it to pick brains.
#20
Im back at it again. Shifting hard, shifting too early, torque converter locking and unlocking. Since it was doing it all the way home, I pulled the codes without turning it off. First engine running: 311, 332, 536. 311: thermactor systems is disabled; 332: EGR is disabled with EGR eliminator; 536: I thought I did this during the test, but must have not. KOEO: 111, 122, 332, 542. 111: I dont understand the 111 with all these other codes but whatever; 122: I have replaced the TPS 4 times and thought maybe I needed to again, but I have .92 volts closed and full range upto 4.5 volts WOT. It does not appear to have any bad spots; 332: already covered; 542: I have a weak rear pump that I do not use, but maybe another problem? This is the first time I have ever recieved this code.
I thought for sure maybe the TPS went out again, but with the full range of voltage I'm not sure now. I am going to get under it and look at the connectors going to the tranny.
This sucks because of 4 day weekend, boat sitting in driveway, and no way to get it to the lake without fixing this cursed transmission shifting problem.
Any thoughts? Thanks
Will
I thought for sure maybe the TPS went out again, but with the full range of voltage I'm not sure now. I am going to get under it and look at the connectors going to the tranny.
This sucks because of 4 day weekend, boat sitting in driveway, and no way to get it to the lake without fixing this cursed transmission shifting problem.
Any thoughts? Thanks
Will
#21
It is a little hard to follow what you did with the codes. But the 111 means no code in one of the tests or CM contains no codes.
You can have 111 for the KOEO, then stored codes in CM and the 111 for KOER.
Is that what you are saying you read?
If you speedometer is working OK then you may be running in limp mode.
You can have 111 for the KOEO, then stored codes in CM and the 111 for KOER.
Is that what you are saying you read?
If you speedometer is working OK then you may be running in limp mode.
#22
I just checked the two transmission connectors (one on drivers side and one on passenger side). They look just fine with no signs of burnt pins or wires. I put some dielectric grease on them then slide them in and out several times to try to make good contact. I also did the same thing with the VSS even so the way I understand it, it only controls the speedometer of which is steady and I have no problems with it.
I have never recieved a VSS code or any tranny codes even so I have battled this problem for a few years now. I have also read that if the cruise control does not work while it is doing this shifting problem, then it points to the PSOM. But the cruise has worked just fine every time.
I need to fix whatever is wrong with it, but I can not afford to replace everything just trying to find the problem (PSOM, TPS, VSS, MLPS, EEC, etc.)
I have never recieved a VSS code or any tranny codes even so I have battled this problem for a few years now. I have also read that if the cruise control does not work while it is doing this shifting problem, then it points to the PSOM. But the cruise has worked just fine every time.
I need to fix whatever is wrong with it, but I can not afford to replace everything just trying to find the problem (PSOM, TPS, VSS, MLPS, EEC, etc.)
#23
First I checked the codes with the engine running because sometimes when I restart it, it will shift fine for a while and I was trying to catch it. Then I turned it off and did the KOEO test. First I got 111 then 111 again. Then after a pause I got 122, 332, 542.
Yes the speedometer has never failed to work correctly.
Yes the speedometer has never failed to work correctly.
#25
I think I will clear the codes and drive it around a little (I need to get gas anyway) then see if the 122 code comes back. I can not imagine why i have had such problems with the TPS. I did buy the cheap ones at Advance to start. Then I read on this site about getting OE sensors beacause the cheap ones are made inferior. So the one that is one there now came from NAPA and is supposed to be an OE part.
#26
Well I drove it maybe 5 miles without the CEL on and shifting perfectly. I know it is only 5 miles but that is the most I have been able to do in a few days. I pulled codes anyway and got KOEO 111. And running got 311, 332. Speaking of that, how do I fool the computer with these two codes? I have the EGR eliminator so I thought that would take care of 332. I just have the vacume lines disconnected from all the thermactor crap but the electrical connectors still connected. It would be nice to not have to look at that bright beaming amber CEL light every where I go.
Anyway, I am very scepticle about it being fixed because I did not do anything but apply dielectric grease to the tranny connectors and the VSS connector which I have done in the past.
Anyway, I am very scepticle about it being fixed because I did not do anything but apply dielectric grease to the tranny connectors and the VSS connector which I have done in the past.
#27
So far the only problems I have had since adding the dielectric grease is the torque convertrer unlocking and locking back up while driving with the OD on. It will unlock for maybe a second and a half then lock back up. It did this several times while driving to work on Wednesday. Driving home yesterday and to work this morning, I had no problems.
This has got to be electrical, but it is so sparatic that it is hard to pin point it.
This has got to be electrical, but it is so sparatic that it is hard to pin point it.
#28
I went a few days without any problems at all, even while towing my boat. But this morning it started again after getting gas and restarting. The only thing it seems to be doing is locking the converter too soon at low speeds, and unlocking at highway speeds. I have not had the "teeth jarring" slamming into gear problem since I put the grease on the tranny connectors.
I dont know if it might be the MLPS or solinoid pack on the tranny, or something else. I will try to pull codes again and see if the TPS shows up again but I doubt it.
Any thoughts?
I dont know if it might be the MLPS or solinoid pack on the tranny, or something else. I will try to pull codes again and see if the TPS shows up again but I doubt it.
Any thoughts?
#29
I have been reading a little information about Dielectric grease and started wondering if that might possibly be my problem. I have put quite a bit on every connector I have came in contact with. If the pins dont make the best of contact to start with, the dielectric grease could cause them to not make at all.
I am wondering if I might need to take some brake cleaner and clean off at least the MLPS and the connector on the passenger side, then barely put some grease just on the boot of the connectors?
Any thoughts?
I am wondering if I might need to take some brake cleaner and clean off at least the MLPS and the connector on the passenger side, then barely put some grease just on the boot of the connectors?
Any thoughts?
#30
There is a plug (C103) on the drivers fender apron (inter fender) that goes down to the transmission. You could unplug that plug (C103) and take ohm readings there to see if the TR sensors pins are making good contact and are in the right ohm range.
C103:
Ohm Readings for the TR Sensor:
C103:
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C103:
Ohm Readings for the TR Sensor:
C103:
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