Good call on the fuel pump. I've never been happy with an aftermarket electric pump and regulator on a low fuel pressure engine setup where a mechanical will work just fine. Electric is just an over fueling problem waiting to happen eventually. Everything has to be too perfect for it to work right long term.

 

Back at it again. Got the rear of the truck jacked up then I dropped the drive shaft so I could replace the bad rear trans output seal. Got it all apart grabbed the new seal and it's about 1/16" loose in the end. Wrong seal. Head back to town and between two different parts store found the right one finally. Got it buckled back up.

Hoping tomorrow to swap to a Mopar H090 oil filter to see if that solves the very low oil pressure at hot idle. No one in town had a Motorcraft one that would fit. This one looks just like the ford one inside with the extra rubber seals inside, etc so it should do the trick.

It looks like I am down to swapping out one front tire, wipers, glove box and new glove box door hinge, trans cover, seat work, radio and some rubber seals before it's ready to to get some tags and see what it's do.

 

I always love watching these back yard builds. Keep it up

 

did you have the seat recovered at upholstery shop or did you buy the cover as an aftermarket. The seat looks great. Needing to get my grandsons recovered. Your seat is very nice.

 

I think you got the wrong build. I have that plan in the works but it's not done on my truck yet. lol.

On mine I am looking at covering what I have with a new custom bottom for storage or using a mini truck seat with manual shift cut out I have in the shed. Just haven't test fitted it yet to see if I like it.

 

Back at home still got about a week and half left home before I got back. Finally got to do some work on the truck today. The wife had surgery right before I got home so I have been helping her alot.

I hope to have a lot of stuff in the interior knocked out this time home. Make kick panels, cut speaker holes if I decide to go that way, cover in white vinal. Make a headliner (not sure how that one is going to go yet). Make new bottom seat frame for storage, behind the seat storage, and maybe see what bench seat I am going to use between the two I have.

I did get the kick panels cut out today and stuck into place for testing. Hope to test cover one tomorrow. I also got the bottom for the new glove box cut out. I wanted some heavyduty as the radio is going into the glove box.

20160216_164327 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr

20160216_164319 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr

20160216_163115 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr

20160216_164311 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr

20160216_165234 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr

20160216_171219 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr

 

Are you running a remote oil filter?

I would be questioning the gauge from your description. Can you swap it out with another?

Along come summer, you might be questioning your decision to swap back to a mech fuel pump. I'd keep what you have, 4+ psi shouldn't hurt a 4 barrel.

 

No I am running a shorter oil filter. Currently the mopar MO-090 the ford version is FL-300. No one in my area had a FL-300 in stock. Looking at all of the alternatives the mopar one is exactly the same looking inside as the FL-1A I looked at.

The Fram I had swapped had dropped the pressure down to nearly zero after it had ran for about 30 minutes. It wasn't doing that with the first filter I had on there. It was a WIX I think.

The reason I changed the oil was it all smelled like gas bad. Last time home I had to pull the plugs and sand paper clean them to get them to fire, they were fowled out bad.

Firing it up today and moving it out close to the shop to work on it sounded like it was flooding out again. I checked the gauge and the fuel pressure was back up to 7 psi. For some reason over 5 psi and Edelbrock carbs start to flood. Edelbrock themself say don't go over 6.5 psi. But they seem happier with even less than that psi.

I have some motorcraft Holley's but I think they all need a rebuild. I have a mallory regulator out in the shed I think I am going to swap to, or add to the fuel system and make a return line. I have never had this problem on either of my mustangs or my comet gt with mech fuel pump all with Edelbrock carbs. The other edelbrock carb was doing the same thing before it developed other problems.

If I do go to the mech fuel pump I will be swapping a lot of parts at once. Timing cover, HO roller cam, GT40 3 bar heads, flycutting the pistons, 1.7 factory cobra roller rockers. I have all of this already.

 

What regulator do you have? Is it one of those round chrome ones? If so, junk it and get a Holley 12-804 (1 to 4 psi) or 12-803 (4.5 to 9 psi). The round ones just don't hold against pressure.

 

Not much done today(tax day, got that out of the way). The truck wouldn't start and wound up drawing the battery back down. Got to charge it back up now. Fuel pressure is still high. Tomorrow I am redoing some of the fuel system and taking the holley blue pump regulator off and putting a mallory one I have on there. Suppose to be able to regulate between 4 and 12 psi on it.

If that doesn't work I am going to pull the carb off again and pull the top end off. Check for trash and float level. There shouldn't be any trash considering everything fuel system was new except the carb. I am using non-ethanol fuel as well for now.

Today I pulled the bench seat I had in it out and mocked up another seat to see how I like it. Now to decide what seat and then build a new bottom for it.

20160217_165523 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr


I am going to cut my sample of the white and grey vinal I have on hand and see what I like on the kick panels and decide on colors.

 

I had one of those to begin with, here is the full history on the fuel system right now.

I originally had a different Edelbrock 600 cfm carb on it with a Mr gasket electric fuel pump and one of those cheap regulators going to a used 8 gallon aluminum tank. Worked perfect. Since it was pretty much a stock engine I thought that would be fine. It was around the yard and never missed a beat idling.

Went to work, came home. Went to crank the truck. Nothing. The fuel pump was dead. Took it off to trouble shoot, nope, still dead. Decided to get a heavy duty fuel pump. Holley blue pump. Put it on and used the round regulator that I had already. First cranked it, ran fine with the PSI I had set. Walking around the truck all of a sudden is sounded like it was flooding out. Looked at the fuel pressure it was at 15 psi. The holley blue pump busted the cheap regulator.

Next I installed the Holley blue pump regulator on it, adjusted it. It was fine. Went to work, came back. Problems. Wouldn't stay running and fuel pressure was higher than it needed to be. Couldn't get the pressure down how I wanted it.

Pulled the holley blue pump and put a Carter electric on it with a 4 to 8 psi out put to help keep pressure down. After a short time the Truck would die every time it was put into gear but would idle fine until you killed it. Then it wouldn't start up unless you put gas in it. It turned out something was messed up with that carb, since I had another one I just swapped them for now. Swapped the manual parts off the old one to the other used one. Truck would then crank and idle fine, even keep running when put into gear.

Went to work, came back and problems again. I have adjusted the pressure down many times. Every time I turn around it's back up higher than when I set it up. I either need a new carb, need to pull and fully check out the inside of this carb. Going to swap a different regulator I have also to see if that will do it. If not new carb or bypass fuel regulator with return line or just trash it all and go with a Fitech efi conversion.

Got to go back to the drawing board with my camshaft upgrade as well. I thought I had a HO camshaft. A few years ago I purchased a 5.0 from a guy junking cars. The intake was a 1986 5.0 HO intake with the smaller runners and smaller throttle body and roller cam so I thought it was a HO long block, kept the cam put up. I just pulled my stuff out to spec it. It turns out it's another base roller cam so the most likely the whole engine was swapped at one time.

So now when I upgrade the engine parts I need a new roller cam or see if the local junk yard still has the F4TE camshaft in that explorer I got the heads off of.

 

The Holley Blue pump is a roller-type pump, it really needs a recirc line. The pump itself has an internal bypass that can be adjusted, that may be all it needs with the good regulator to help.

 

I put my mallory fuel pump regulator on it, and it started spraying fuel though a hole in the top as soon as I turned it on. It turns out the internal seal was busted. They don't make the exact repair kit on it anymore so I will have to try another one from a simular model.

I took the holley blue pump regulator apart to look at it. It only has a strong spring pushing to open and you push it more by turning the screw. The rubber is holding it nearly all the way open even though I have it backed all the way off. I am looking at putting another spring it it for temp to push it back so it will properly regulate again.

 

I am back at work but did get it back going, then ran into another problem.

I ordered the holley regulator repair kit after finding out the mallory one I have some people complain that the new style rebuild kits won't work on it. So I will just rebuild it when I have more time. I wanted to make sure it would work before putting it on.

I left the original rubber in the holley body saving the newer one incase this didn't work and put the stronger spring on the bottom where there is no spring and put the weaker spring up top to push down. I then could adjust the pressure like I wanted it. I could even go to zero psi if I wanted. I have it at 3.5 right now.

After all that was right the carb was still flooding out so I pulled it out. I was cruddy as hell inside so I went to clean it then remembered the other carb I had on it before. Pulling both of them part I found out that the first ones problem where it would idle but die when you give it the gas was the accelerator pump as it was damaged. I then decided to pull the really dirty ones accelerator pump out and drop it into the first carb.

While it was open I cleaned it up some more and wound up using the bottom of the first carb and the top and accelerator pump from the second carb. After putting it all back together it fired up and ran but now won't keep running with out the choke closed. So when I get home I will have to pull the carb again to check the gaskets for breaks and find where the vacuum leak is and re-double check the float levels.

Before it was fired back up when I swapped the carb back on I pulled the plugs and dropped new autolite's into it and blew out the cylinders and intake with compressed air. Every time I blew a cylinder out I could smell nothing with gas. The truck had set over night before pulling the carb and the intake was still wet with gas when I pulled the carb off.

Pulling the dipstick the oil level was about 2 quarts higher than it should of been. So before fire up the oil was drained good. The oil that had less than a hour on it looked like it had 6 thousand miles on it. Guess the inside of the engine is clean now. It is now filled with fresh 20w-50 and a new filter.


So now when I do get back home and tear back into the carb again I hope this ends my fuel problems for a while.

 

Nice build thread, enjoy the pics and detail.