i know you can get ride of the smog pump and run a shorter belt but what all do you have to do to get rid of it? is it just a matter of unbolting it? do you have to cap anything off? im going to try and do it when i replace my core support and would like to know before hand what parts i need so i can go ahead and get them.
also i read on another thread about the air injection system delete? what gains and losses am i going to see from this? and what all is involved in that as well?
Just leave it alone man....Did that to both of my trucks..Now I wish I hadn't....I;ve heard it said they can cause some MPG loss, but I haven't seen any personally...Then again, neither of my trucks have thrown codes either....
Also, a pet peeve I've noticed, is that after you remove the pump, etc....The fumes kinda start to be a bother...Thats what the system is for...to recirculate the gases into the engine, and make the air cleaner...
just so you are clear you will not pass smog tests if you ever have them in your state... you won't get any HP gain from deleting it either. The system is designed to recirculate combustible gas from your exhaust back up into the engine. some claim it helps or hurts your mpgs; I don't know if it does either but I know it will throw O2 sensor codes if your engine is running a little rich. I have heard from some that advancing your timing to 14* on the 302/351w will give a better burn in the cylinder and then won't set off your o2 sensor... the biggest reason people take them off is b/c there is less "stuff" under the hood to look at... Personally if you are worried about 3 hoses and a pump you shouldn't be under the hood to begin with. If the pump has frozen up you can take the case apart and grease the inside... All the pump consists of is 3 or 4 flappers, a bering, and a pully incased in the housing... Lube it all up and put it back on... You'll be fine for another 5 years at least. That's how long mine has lasted since the last lube.
That being said if you are dead set on deleting it... you need to remove the pump and get a shorter belt or get a replacement "idler" pulley to put in it's place. remove and cap off any air hoses connected to the pump. there are plenty that have done away with the pump but I don't see much sense in it...
If you don't need the air pump you can delete it , it won't hurt anything , remove the pump and tubes that go into the back of the heads , plug the holes , 5/8 bolt with course threads 1in long i think ? , use a shorter belt , or an idler air pump delete pulley made for the mustang if you run your motor in the higher RPMs , you may wan't to leave the EGR , removing that may hurt MPG....Lew
Yeah there are two seperate "smog" systems on these motors, the EGR and the Thermactor(air injection). The EGR is the smaller/tidier system consisting of just 1 valve and a short steel hose between the exhaust manifold(5.8) or the lower intake(5.0), there is also a control solenoid(EVR) over by the coil that is connected to the EGR valve with a vacuum line. This system recirculates a small amount of exhaust gas back into the engine and it cannot be removed without setting a code.
The thermactor system consists of an air pump, two diverter valves, two control solenoids(TAB and TAD) over by the coil, and a mess of steel and rubber hoses that connect the pump to motor and the cats. This system is designed to supply fresh air to the cats to help them burn off excess hydrocarbons, and all this can be removed without affecting engine operation or setting a code but it won't make any difference to power output.
I've done it on a few trucks. Doesnt matter where i live, because we dont have smog check.
Problem is, with trucks this old, they're bound to have exhaust work done on them at some point, and i've never seen an exhaust shop that hooks the air pump back up properly anyways, so half the system is already missing by the time i get my hands on them.
You do get more space out of the engine bay if you take it all out, you'd be surprised how much junk is associated with the air pump in there.
But basically you just take the pump off, get a shorter belt remove all the lines. Ford is kind of a pain because there's two ports on the back of the heads the air lines go into. You have to plug those somehow, they're in a pretty tight spot to get at too. I usually just take the fittings off the head, and fill them with epoxy or something, then put them back on. Kinda half-assed, but it works.
You also have to plug the hole right before the cat that the lines go into. Weld it, or put a cap on it or something.
For emissions, the only thing the air pump does is help burn off unburnt hydrocarbons as far as i know. I've known people who can pass a smog check without it, but they have to play around with their engines some, have it overheated when they check, or mess with the timing, etc...
Sorry guys your right as usuall... Man my brain has been on the fritz lately... to many 14 hr night shifts i guess... Either way I thought that the smog pump being off would trip the O2 sensor>?>?>? But thinking about it now... the 02 sensor is b4 the cat so it wouldn't make a difference to set it off.
As far as the EGR delete that RJM has... Isn't that designed to shut off the engine light by sending the proper signal back to the computer?
mine got stuck, will not turn so I Deleted it and re-routed the belt. 98 " But the belt isn't working well, its hard to tense, and keeps making noise, I am building a pulley using the old pump and new bearings (20 $ ) wil use the original belt 100 " long. See the new rute, the one not working well, on the graphic attached "back an forth we go"