Hey guys i have a 2001 ford ranger 4.0l 4x4 auto with 108,xxx and it is starting hard. I crank on it for 5 sec and then quit, then cycle the key and some times its starts right up, or i might have to do that cycle once more. It will start if i keep cranking it but it kinda stutters to a start and idles at 400 for a bit then goes into a normal idle. I do have a random misfire code( i forget the number for sure) but there is no cel. I just replace plugs, dpfe, iacv, fuel filter and air filter. Im thinkin its the distrubter box but i have no idea just guessing there. I would like to get this fixed asap( mostly because my chevy friends make fun of me haha) and im thinking about trading it off. Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Lane

 

Did all of the problems exist before all of the parts replacement, or did some of them come about afterward????

Since you've replaced all of those things, & it seems to respond to multiple cycling of the ignition switch, which has the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds to build fuel pressure before a start, you might put the fuel pump on your suspect list.

When it throws one of it's stubborn no start fits, cycle the ignition switch from Off, to Run, (but don't go to Start to crank the engine) say 4-5 times. Pause long enough at Run to hear the fuel pump come on & cycle off (about a 2 second pause at Run), then go to Start & crank the engine. If it'll immediately start & run each time you do this, suspect the fuel pump is beginning to lay down on the job. So do a KOEO, KOER, fuel pressure test at the fuel rail schrader valve, a leak down test & volume over time test & post the results.

 

Thanks for the response. Yes the problem did exist before hand, thats why i did the plugs and the fuel filter(the iacv and the dpfe were other codes that were up so thats why i replaced those. I will have to cycle that many times to see if it helps. What kinda tools will i need to do the pressure test? I have never done a fuel test, but im fairly mechanically enclined so if you could help me out with what to get and how do do it that would be great.

Thanks

Lane

 

Here is a good tutorial on doing a fuel pump diagnosis & fuel pressure check.
DIAGNOSE FUEL PUMP
Lots of other good wrench turning info on his site too.

Some autoparts stores have a gauge set in their "Loan-A-Tool" program, for a refundable deposit. Or if you'd like to own a gauge, Harbor Freight has one for about $20, but it'll need some PTFE ribbon dope on it's hose connection threads, to prevent leaks, but it works ok.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks Pawpa. I have been cycling the key 4 to 5 time and it starts right up everytime. So i will have to go get one of those tools. I just have my hands full right now with minot flooding so i have to put it on the back burner for a couple weeks.

Thanks

Lane

 

Good trouble shooting & feedback, keep us posted on what you find & how it goes.
Seeing as how you live in cold country with lots of salt on the roads then, electrical connections probably belong on your suspect list, so be sure to back probe the fuel pumps B+ feed for a voltage drop.

Been hearing about your excess water problems up there, so stay dry if you can!!!!

 

Ya ill have to look into that.So to check that i would just go to the B+ terminal and to gound and i would get like 12-14v? Or how would you go about it?
Thanks im trying my best to stay dry. The water started going down yesterday so i hope that this is the end of it.

Thanks

Lane

 

Well the ideal spot would be to back probe the fuel pumps on tank electrical connector B+ feed, for voltage drop to ground at KOEO, so your testing the wirings ability to supply full voltage with the pump running.

That spot would check the entire wiring run from the underhood fuel pump power relay, through the in cabin inertia switch & the wiring run to the on tank electrical connector.

If you can't get to that spot easily & the wiring to the tank electrical connector looks ok, back probe the in cabin inertia switch electrical connectors B+ feed to ground, on the pump side of the connector, when the pump runs for two seconds at KOEO. You should have close to the same B+ voltage measured across the battery.