Well, I officially have all my parts coming in for my Pedestal O-ring replacement job!

• Turbo Re-Install O-Ring kit from Guzzle. $26.45 (w/compressor gasket)
• Wicked Wheel from XDP. ($77.50)
• Non-EBV Pedestal. ($75 Ebay)
• Turbo Master (Dieselsite $160)
• Fumoto Drain Valve (Dieselsite $27)
• AIH Delete Plug (Dieselsite $8)

Not sure If I want to buy the EBV delete plug for $50 or make one... I found a thread about using a resistor to make your own delete plug and may just try that.... at least see if it actually works using AE. If not.... I'll probably buy the plug then.

Guzzles Price of $20 for the turbo reinstall kit beats the hell out of Ford's price... of $86.

Am I missing anything? Anything else to do while the turbo is out?

It's 2am as I type this and I'm tired.... hopefully I have thought of everything.

Soon as I get the leak stopped and the engine/compartment cleaned up, (LOTS OF DE-GREASER!) I plan to get the tools out and clean up the oil pan, sand it all down and paint it up real nice. Hopefully this will get rid of my oil leak and be the end of unwanted corrosion on my oil pan!

Night Folks!

 

Up pipe gaskets! Do them now while you have room reclaim that lost turbine pressure

 

x2 on the up pipe gaskets or just do the bellowed ones and be done with it! Otherwise good job and looks like good prices on everything!

 

Someday I will do the International Bellowed Pipes... but not today. ($$$ = )

When you say Up-Pipe Gaskets, what exactly are you refering to?

I don't want to remove the up-pipes unless I have to, and I do not have any leaks at the moment. (Over 30psi Boost) When I do replace them, I'm thinking about doing all the piping, manifolds, etc.

Do I need to replace then when I pull the turbo? Where is the best place to get them?

I apreciate the help!

 

Non-EBV Pedistal Came in today!

 

Congrats on the new stuff. Make sure to clean the valley up real good while the turbo is off.

 

I was debating whether to do it while it was apart or not... I don't want to water-wash it, (for the obvious reason) but I think I'm gonna use degreaser and half a dozen rolls of paper towels to spray(degreaser) and wipe it down good.

The front of the valley is dry, and since my CCV I havent noticed any oil on the intercooler tubes/boots. (TONS when I got it) so I'm planning on taking it apart some more and cleaning it up real good...and maybe doing a little paint.

 

Just read your thread are you going to gut the exhaust outlet or have you considered a high flow outlet.

 

If you don't have any leakage or movement at the y casting where the turbine inlet connects then you're golden, if you do there are two (one each side) do not gaskets sandwiched between clamps on that casting,that seal the up pipes, ther are by far easiest to service with the turbo pedestal off or engine out would do them now loss than 40.00 from your local Ford store for the pair you only have to remove the combined flange the up pipes stay on the truck. Also while you're there tighten you're exhaust manifolds too! Be sure to inspect you're passenger side fuel feed line as it goes into the intake manifold clamp as they are notorious for wearing through at this point, replace it if there is any indication of wear also there are some good replacement bushings available from site supporters to stop the "rub through" problem, last thing brake cleaner works great to clean out valley also removes diesel oil spots from concrete driveways! Don't forget to poke out weep hole at far back pass. Side rear for correct drainage subsequent cleanings can then be done with power purple, simple green ect and water on a regular basis to keep it nice and clean! I hope this helps clear up your questions have fun

 

As of right now, I'm thinking I'm just going to plug it, the only thing I'm curious as to is will a tap/plug work, or will it work out with the heat/cold cycles?

Replies/questions in RED.

 

The fuel line that rubs is the line that goes from the fuel bowl to the passenger side head. You can see Guzzle's pics in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...el-leak-2.html

Edit: this thread has some great info about common problems with our trucks: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-thread.html

 

Well, I was thinking about it, and I decided to buy the Plenum Reinforcing Inserts and 4 T-bolt Clamps from Guzzle, too. (Wish i though of it the other day when I ordered)


I checked out Clay at Rifraft and they were a little more expensive, (a couple bucks) and I don't have an account with them yet, So I went with Guzzle. Guzzle has been fast to ship so far and reliable!


So Add another $72 to the list.... But the intake Pleniums wont colapse on me now, and I can lose those crappy worm-drive clamps and have a better sealed system!


Question:


Can't wait to start digging into this thing...BUT: Does anyone else have an opinion on how to gut the exhaust outlet housing? I'm thinking just cut it out and tap a couple plugs in it to seal it.

 

Total for everything, including shipping, is $465 so far:

Wicked Wheel (XDP)
Turbo/Pedestal Gasket+Bolt Kit (Guzzle)
Non-EBV Pedestal (Ebay)
Plenum Reinforcing Inserts (Guzzle)
(4) T-bolt Clamps (Guzzle)
AIH Delete Plug (Dieselsite)
Turbo-Master Boost Controller (Dieselsite)
Fumoto Drain Valve (Dieselsite)

Hopefully this is it for a while, and fixed my oil-drip issues. I already have the paint for my oil pan, and just need some sander-discs for my grinder to clean the oil pan up. Just need to pick up a pack of resistors from Radio Shack.

The only other mods I NEED to do this summer is going to be Hutch/Harpoon, and hopefully next month. Still not looking forward to dropping the tank.

 

Here are the instructions I used: Gutting the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ

I just used a 3/4 inch deep freeze plug from Napa.

 

Whats the difference between a plug and a freeze plug?