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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old 06-13-2011, 09:00 PM
fordracer08 fordracer08 is offline
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'91 5.0 oil pan removal

Has anyone removed the oil pan on an 87 - 91 F-150 4x4 w/5.0 & 5speed trans without pulling the engine? I have replaced oil pan gaskets by dropping the pan down as far as I could and then fishing everything around the pick-up but I need to replace the oil pan as it has the typical rust problem and is starting to leak. Will the pan clear the bell housing and cross member if the engine is lifted as far as possible? I would like to avoid removing the engine if possible. Thanks.
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:55 PM
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timbersteel timbersteel is offline
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Yes, can be removed, in either 1 or 2 ways. I know that on my '92, 302, I cannot drop the oil pan completely and remove it, unless I drop the Y-pipe, remove the transmission crossmember and drop the exhaust. Others have claimed to have yanked it with the Y-pipe unbolted and crossmember still attatched. Also, you may have to rotate the crankshaft so as the counterweights clear the pan.

No need to remove the plenum as it says in the Haynes or Chilton manual. I just unbolted the fan shroud and let it hang. I also have several different wood blocks laying around to get the height I need in order to rest the engine on. I used a bottle jack to lift the pan with wood block inserted between the pan and the lift point of the jack and a tranny jack so that I can support the weight of the tranny when the engine was lifted.

When lifting, just do it slowly and you should be ok. Hope this helps.

NOTE: When you get the oil pan bolts removed, you will need to unbolt the oil pickup bracket and the oil pump bolts and let fall inside the pan.
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1992 F-150 V8 302 156K 4x4, SuperCab, Auto
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Last edited by timbersteel; 06-13-2011 at 09:58 PM. Reason: More info...
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Old 06-15-2011, 03:27 PM
fordracer08 fordracer08 is offline
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I figured I would probably have to remove or at least unbolt the exhaust and move it out of the way. I knew it was a tight fit between the crossmember, exhaust and bellhousing. I don't know if it would just be better to remove the engine as it would be easier to line things up. If I pull the engine I would also do the rear main seal. Thanks for the input.
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Old 06-15-2011, 03:31 PM
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timbersteel timbersteel is offline
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If you plan on replacing the rear main, I agree with pulling the engine. That $12-20 piece is invaluable to replace now.
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:15 PM
fordracer08 fordracer08 is offline
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I will just have to find the time to do it as my schedule seems to fill up fast. I am sure the clutch is getting close too, with 142k miles. If I pull the engine and the clutch is even close it will get replaced as I don't want to pull either the engine or trans again soon.
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:15 PM
 
 
 
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