Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2011, 07:08 PM
kyledallas kyledallas is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 10
kyledallas is new and has a neutral reputation at this point.
Drivers Electric Window not Working

My drivers side electric window is not working. Passenger side working fine.. fuse is fine. I took the door panel off and took the drivers switch panel off and toggled the wires, looked for loose wires/connections both at the switch panel and the wires leading to the pwr window motor as best I could.

Drivers side switch is making positive clicking sound but window does not budge. I hooked an "S" hook from a tie down ratchet on the window arm inside the door and depressed the switch while pulling up as hard as I could.. did not move. Window is in the full/down position.

Need to determine if switch or motor is bad.. console is getting power as it will roll down passenger side window and power window controls are still operational.

Don't want to buy a motor if that's not the problem.. what are my next troubleshooting moves? My truck is a '92 .. have had it about 3 months.. don't have any replacement history on the pwr window motors.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2011, 07:20 PM
Volvo92906's Avatar
Volvo92906 Volvo92906 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 1,069
Volvo92906 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.Volvo92906 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Check for power at wires going to motor.

Jump motor to get it to operate. If it doesnt, it is bad.
__________________
enˇgine noun -a machine for converting thermal energy into mechanical energy or power to produce force and motion.

moˇtor noun -a machine that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy, as an induction motor.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2011, 07:25 PM
kyledallas kyledallas is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 10
kyledallas is new and has a neutral reputation at this point.
Which wire is hot wire.. color I mean..
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2011, 07:28 PM
Volvo92906's Avatar
Volvo92906 Volvo92906 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 1,069
Volvo92906 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.Volvo92906 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
No idea. I do not have a schematic.
__________________
enˇgine noun -a machine for converting thermal energy into mechanical energy or power to produce force and motion.

moˇtor noun -a machine that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy, as an induction motor.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2011, 09:44 PM
CWPottenger CWPottenger is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 397
CWPottenger is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Either... One way up / other way down.

Take your 12 v source and ground and touch leads. then swap.. If motor moves or makes noise like it's moving probably good and issue elsewhere. if nothing in either way bad motor
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2011, 01:37 AM
weskan weskan is online now
Senior User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Garden City
Posts: 128
weskan is starting off with a positive reputation.
My 92 did that also. Turned out to be a stuck gearbox. There are some plastic "cylinders" in there that wear, and in mine disintegrated, resulting in a stuck motor/gearbox.

You can get a rebuild kit for cheap. Just three screws on the gearbox cover, Take out the gear and debris that might be in there. Clean it up and put it back together with the new pieces. (It will be obvious what to do once the cover is off) Pack with grease and replace cover. Plug in and test before installing.

I have an extra motor now because the junkyard dog that sold me the replacement gave me these three little pieces of plastic because he heard some slop in the gearbox. So I decided to take apart my original to see if these plastic pieces were my real problem. They were.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2011, 01:44 AM
weskan weskan is online now
Senior User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Garden City
Posts: 128
weskan is starting off with a positive reputation.
You can get more complete kits than what I was given

Dorman/Window Lift Motor Gear Kit (74409) | 1996 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders N 5.0L EFI | AutoZone.com

Dorman/Window Lift Motor Gear Kit (74426) | 1996 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders N 5.0L EFI | AutoZone.com
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 09:01 PM
Encho's Avatar
Encho Encho is offline
The Brown Mod
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 5,970
Encho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant future
I wonder if i can find those gears made of steel... That would be the end of that issue.
__________________
1993 Special Edition Bronco: 5.0lt V8, E4OD Auto, MM Supreme manual hub lockers and a sweet roof tent, ROTW in 2/9/09
My Write-ups: Ford Steering Box Rebuild / Ford Front End Rebuild and auto hubs replacement / Ford Rear Drum Brakes / Ford E4OD Cooler & Shift Kit mods, drain-refill procedures R.I.P. Steve, you will be deeply missed my friend
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 09:06 PM
weskan weskan is online now
Senior User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Garden City
Posts: 128
weskan is starting off with a positive reputation.
It's not the gears that are the problem usually, it is the little plastic cylinders that wear and break down.
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 09:09 PM
Nitesaber Nitesaber is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 177
Nitesaber is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Encho View Post
I wonder if i can find those gears made of steel... That would be the end of that issue.
same with the piece that wraps around the lock cylinder. I hate how Ford went cheap on us in the door assembly moving parts (the small parts at least).
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 10:54 PM
Encho's Avatar
Encho Encho is offline
The Brown Mod
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 5,970
Encho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant futureEncho has a brilliant future
Well, i have thought of that too Nite, but since i've had very little trouble with the windows i must say they got away with it. Surviving for 15-20 years is a long time for a plastic part in a mechanism, and it probably was very cost effective (extruding plastic gears vs. casting, then tempering, then machining steel gears, and that doesn't even count the cost of plastic vs. steel). That is my reasoning on why they did it, yet i would be more than happy to upgrade.
__________________
1993 Special Edition Bronco: 5.0lt V8, E4OD Auto, MM Supreme manual hub lockers and a sweet roof tent, ROTW in 2/9/09
My Write-ups: Ford Steering Box Rebuild / Ford Front End Rebuild and auto hubs replacement / Ford Rear Drum Brakes / Ford E4OD Cooler & Shift Kit mods, drain-refill procedures R.I.P. Steve, you will be deeply missed my friend
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 11:06 PM
Nitesaber Nitesaber is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 177
Nitesaber is starting off with a positive reputation.
I see the cost effective part about it. Let me know if you do ever find an aftermarket that is steel or at least a solid alloy for that part or anything fragile like that after years of use.
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2011, 03:40 PM
j1shalack's Avatar
j1shalack j1shalack is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 19
j1shalack is starting off with a positive reputation.
Had same problem on my '93. The kit fixed it.
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2012, 11:37 PM
BGBRY BGBRY is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 17
BGBRY is starting off with a positive reputation.
I'm having the same problem with my newly acquired '96 F150. The passenger side worked great at first but it now doesn't work at all, just like the driver's side. It looks like power goes to them since the amp meter needle moves when I hit the switch to either window. Is there a relay that could be bad? Or is this the same symptom that you guys experienced and was fixed by the motor gear kit?

Bryant
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:39 AM
92 Black Nite's Avatar
92 Black Nite 92 Black Nite is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Coatesville ,PA.
Posts: 295
92 Black Nite is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by weskan View Post
My 92 did that also. Turned out to be a stuck gearbox. There are some plastic "cylinders" in there that wear, and in mine disintegrated
I also had the same issue as weskan . What I did was replace the plastic pucks with 1/4 - 20 nuts. I got this fix from a Ford Tech. and it does work, just clean out the gear case of all old grease and what's left of the plastic pucks and replace with grease and the 1/4'' nuts. On my 92, I had to drill a 1/2" access hole for the screws to remove the motor gearbox assy. from the door frame. There is a drill dimple on the door frame that you use as a guide to drill the access holes that will expose the motor screws. Just make sure there are not any wires in the way before you drill. I hope this helps you. '92
Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2012, 09:39 AM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
05, 87, 91, aviator, bronco, driver, f150, f250, passenger, power, stoped, stopped, time, window, windows, working

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup