My drivers side electric window is not working. Passenger side working fine.. fuse is fine. I took the door panel off and took the drivers switch panel off and toggled the wires, looked for loose wires/connections both at the switch panel and the wires leading to the pwr window motor as best I could.

Drivers side switch is making positive clicking sound but window does not budge. I hooked an "S" hook from a tie down ratchet on the window arm inside the door and depressed the switch while pulling up as hard as I could.. did not move. Window is in the full/down position.

Need to determine if switch or motor is bad.. console is getting power as it will roll down passenger side window and power window controls are still operational.

Don't want to buy a motor if that's not the problem.. what are my next troubleshooting moves? My truck is a '92 .. have had it about 3 months.. don't have any replacement history on the pwr window motors.

 

Check for power at wires going to motor.

Jump motor to get it to operate. If it doesnt, it is bad.

 

Which wire is hot wire.. color I mean..

 

No idea. I do not have a schematic.

 

Either... One way up / other way down.

Take your 12 v source and ground and touch leads. then swap.. If motor moves or makes noise like it's moving probably good and issue elsewhere. if nothing in either way bad motor

 

My 92 did that also. Turned out to be a stuck gearbox. There are some plastic "cylinders" in there that wear, and in mine disintegrated, resulting in a stuck motor/gearbox.

You can get a rebuild kit for cheap. Just three screws on the gearbox cover, Take out the gear and debris that might be in there. Clean it up and put it back together with the new pieces. (It will be obvious what to do once the cover is off) Pack with grease and replace cover. Plug in and test before installing.

I have an extra motor now because the junkyard dog that sold me the replacement gave me these three little pieces of plastic because he heard some slop in the gearbox. So I decided to take apart my original to see if these plastic pieces were my real problem. They were.

 

You can get more complete kits than what I was given

Dorman/Window Lift Motor Gear Kit (74409) | 1996 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders N 5.0L EFI | AutoZone.com

Dorman/Window Lift Motor Gear Kit (74426) | 1996 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders N 5.0L EFI | AutoZone.com

 

I wonder if i can find those gears made of steel... That would be the end of that issue.

 

It's not the gears that are the problem usually, it is the little plastic cylinders that wear and break down.

 

same with the piece that wraps around the lock cylinder. I hate how Ford went cheap on us in the door assembly moving parts (the small parts at least).

 

Well, i have thought of that too Nite, but since i've had very little trouble with the windows i must say they got away with it. Surviving for 15-20 years is a long time for a plastic part in a mechanism, and it probably was very cost effective (extruding plastic gears vs. casting, then tempering, then machining steel gears, and that doesn't even count the cost of plastic vs. steel). That is my reasoning on why they did it, yet i would be more than happy to upgrade.

 

I see the cost effective part about it. Let me know if you do ever find an aftermarket that is steel or at least a solid alloy for that part or anything fragile like that after years of use.

 

Had same problem on my '93. The kit fixed it.

 

I'm having the same problem with my newly acquired '96 F150. The passenger side worked great at first but it now doesn't work at all, just like the driver's side. It looks like power goes to them since the amp meter needle moves when I hit the switch to either window. Is there a relay that could be bad? Or is this the same symptom that you guys experienced and was fixed by the motor gear kit?

Bryant

 

I also had the same issue as weskan . What I did was replace the plastic pucks with 1/4 - 20 nuts. I got this fix from a Ford Tech. and it does work, just clean out the gear case of all old grease and what's left of the plastic pucks and replace with grease and the 1/4'' nuts. On my 92, I had to drill a 1/2" access hole for the screws to remove the motor gearbox assy. from the door frame. There is a drill dimple on the door frame that you use as a guide to drill the access holes that will expose the motor screws. Just make sure there are not any wires in the way before you drill. I hope this helps you. '92