Instrument panel Corrosion
#1
Instrument panel Corrosion
I have a 1976 F250 Ranger XLT and the Instrument panel lights stopped working. After reading up on the problem and figuring out how to remove it (Speedo Cable included) I found out the connections had corroded on the back of the panel and bulb holders. I had read that taking Alcohol to it would do the trick or using brakcleen. I came up with a solution that worked for me, it may work for others.
After rubbing some alcohol over the copper area of the circuit board I took some sand paper and VERY carefully sanded off the corrosion with the folded corner.
Took it right off. I did the same for all of them.
Then I carefully sanded the tips of the connectors on bulb holders and the inside area where the bulb would touch.
I hooked it all back up with the new 194 bulbs and it worked like a charm. I plan to replace a bunch of parts later on but this worked as a temp/perm fix for me.
After rubbing some alcohol over the copper area of the circuit board I took some sand paper and VERY carefully sanded off the corrosion with the folded corner.
Took it right off. I did the same for all of them.
Then I carefully sanded the tips of the connectors on bulb holders and the inside area where the bulb would touch.
I hooked it all back up with the new 194 bulbs and it worked like a charm. I plan to replace a bunch of parts later on but this worked as a temp/perm fix for me.
#2
#4
F4UZ-13B765-A (replaced C8OZ-13711-B) .. Instrument Cluster Bulb Socket / Available from Ford.
MSRP: $1.85 // FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $1.33.
Applications: 1970/89 F100/350 / 1970/91 Econoline / 1968/89 Bronco / Myriad 1968/91 Passenger Cars and etc.
Note inre to applications: My original post...quoted in post #5 differs, because I edited in more applications for this puppy.
MSRP: $1.85 // FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $1.33.
Applications: 1970/89 F100/350 / 1970/91 Econoline / 1968/89 Bronco / Myriad 1968/91 Passenger Cars and etc.
Note inre to applications: My original post...quoted in post #5 differs, because I edited in more applications for this puppy.
#5
Thank you, I was going to go to Dennis Carpenters as well. Do you know where I would get an entirely new instrument panel? Or would I just have to rebuild mine part by part?
#6
#7
In 1981, FoMoCo came out with replacement cluster backs made of plastic.
These were factory installed in 1981/91 Econolines with oil/amp gauges / 1981/86 Econolines with oil/amp warning (idiot) lights.
Some of the earlier vehicles have had these retrofitted, some have not.
E1PZ-10848-A .. Cluster Back-Use with Oil & Amp Gauges.
Applications: 1975/79 F100/350 / 1975/91 Econoline / 1978/79 Bronco.
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E1PZ-10848-B .. Cluster Back-Use with Oil & Amp Warning Lights.
Applications: 1975/79 F100/350 / 1975/86 Econoline / 1978/79 Bronco.
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Note: The printed circuit boards used in 1975 are not the same as 1976 and later, and there are two different types used with warning lights.
D6TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit-Use with Oil & Amp Gauges / Marked: D6TF-10C956-BA
Applications: 1976/79 F100/350 / 1976/91 Econoline / 1978/79 Bronco.
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D6TZ-10K843-C .. Printed Circuit-Use with Oil & Amp Warning Lights / Marked: D6TF-10C956-CA
Applications: 1976/78 F100/350 / 1976/78 Econoline / 1978 Bronco.
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D9TZ-10K843-A .. Printed Circuit-Use with Oil & Amp Warning Lights / Marked: D9TF-10C956-AA
Applications: 1979 F100/350 / 1979/86 Econoline / 1979 Bronco.
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#9
Many Econolines were sold as fleet vehicles. Most fleets that bought these, bought "strippers" without any options. Oil and Amp gauges were optional.
Note: You have to be careful taking cluster backs from 1975/79 F100/350's, 1975/80 E100/350's, 1978/79 Bronco's, because...
These were not available until 1981. Some of the 1975/80 Econolines, 1975/79 F100/350's & 1978/79 Bronco's had them retrofitted (under warranty or 'customer pay'). Some were never replaced.
Note: You have to be careful taking cluster backs from 1975/79 F100/350's, 1975/80 E100/350's, 1978/79 Bronco's, because...
These were not available until 1981. Some of the 1975/80 Econolines, 1975/79 F100/350's & 1978/79 Bronco's had them retrofitted (under warranty or 'customer pay'). Some were never replaced.
#11
circuit board
Glad I found this link. I have a 72 ford f100 p/u and my circuit board has some breaks in the copper wiring. The receptacle has sections of copper wiring that almost look melted? Same as the wiring harness that plugs into circuit board has a couple bad sections. I can wiggle it and watch the alt light stay on, gas gauge and temp gauge go all the way to full. I decide to check this when I could not get my fuel gauge to work after replacing the sending unit. Question? Could I not just order copper wiring and replace the damage sections or should I buy a whole new circuit board and plug? IF I go the replacement route, who would have just the board and plug in stock? Thanks
#12
Note for future reference: this is the 73-79 forum, and the thread is a couple years old. If you have a new question, it's best to start a new thread. Otherwise people will see this thread at the top of the forum and respond based on what the thread was started for - not your question all the way at the bottom.
That being said, trying to repair a damaged printed circuit by hand will prove difficult, but not impossible. You can't do it with wiring alone, you'd need to use solder. If you simply need to repair a cut such that the gap between the two broken traces is not very wide, you can bridge with solder; otherwise you'll need to run a length of wire to jump the gap. To get the solder to flow, you'll need to carefully scrape away the laminate mask while still obtaining the copper pour underneath. You'll need to be very diligent with flux for the solder to flow. It will be very difficult to get the contacts hot enough to take solder without melting the laminate. Once the joint is cooled, you'll need to be very careful not to flex the laminate around the joint.
Unless you are very skilled at soldering, I don't recommend it. I recommend replacing the printed circuit completely if you can find a replacement. Repairing the plug and harness is the same as any other wiring repair - replace the bad sections. Splice in replacement wiring with solder and shrink wrap.
That being said, trying to repair a damaged printed circuit by hand will prove difficult, but not impossible. You can't do it with wiring alone, you'd need to use solder. If you simply need to repair a cut such that the gap between the two broken traces is not very wide, you can bridge with solder; otherwise you'll need to run a length of wire to jump the gap. To get the solder to flow, you'll need to carefully scrape away the laminate mask while still obtaining the copper pour underneath. You'll need to be very diligent with flux for the solder to flow. It will be very difficult to get the contacts hot enough to take solder without melting the laminate. Once the joint is cooled, you'll need to be very careful not to flex the laminate around the joint.
Unless you are very skilled at soldering, I don't recommend it. I recommend replacing the printed circuit completely if you can find a replacement. Repairing the plug and harness is the same as any other wiring repair - replace the bad sections. Splice in replacement wiring with solder and shrink wrap.
#13
Glad I found this link. I have a 72 ford f100 p/u and my circuit board has some breaks in the copper wiring. The receptacle has sections of copper wiring that almost look melted? Same as the wiring harness that plugs into circuit board has a couple bad sections. I can wiggle it and watch the alt light stay on, gas gauge and temp gauge go all the way to full. I decide to check this when I could not get my fuel gauge to work after replacing the sending unit. Question? Could I not just order copper wiring and replace the damage sections or should I buy a whole new circuit board and plug?
IF I go the replacement route, who would have just the board and plug in stock?
IF I go the replacement route, who would have just the board and plug in stock?
D1TZ-10K843-A .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Oil/Amp Gauges / Obsolete
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has TWO = 800-543-4959.
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has TWO = 972-937-2201.
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D1TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Oil/Amp Warning Lamps / Obsolete
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has ONE = 606-787-5293.
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has ONE = 800-476-9653.
CROSSETT FORD-LINCOLN in Crossett AR has ONE = 870-364-2162.
NOS PARTS LTD has FIVE.
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