Tailgate theft...
#46
cool, sadly im stuck to usind premade things as I don't have the facilities to fab things but I like to do what ever custom work possible and install chit my self, but when it comes to locks I would rather it be professionally done
what do you guys think about that pop lock or what ever it was, does anyone have it or installed one? is it simple to install, does it take the place of the existing latch thing?
what do you guys think about that pop lock or what ever it was, does anyone have it or installed one? is it simple to install, does it take the place of the existing latch thing?
#47
I've tried both the McGard and the Master locks and neither one fits a '12 Superduty. The McGard is just a hose clamp with a plastic housing and isn't wide enough and can't be positioned so it keeps the tailgate from sliding sideways and off. The Master has come in two varieties -- one that is half plastic and one that is all metal -- but both rattle and both have the same security problem that the McGard does.
On one of these forums I saw the best solution around. Just get a couple large stainless fender washers and install them under the torx bolts that secure the two tailgate cables to the sides of the box. There's a keyhole shape there that lets you loosen the cables and push them up and out, which is part of why stealing a tailgate is so easy. The washers block the keyhole. You may have to drill out the washers or fiddle with it, depending on your particular model and year, but it means someone has to disassemble the cable assembly to remove the tailgate. I do this in addition to a hose clamp on the tailgate hinge, plus a locking rear lock on the tailgate itself.
One other thing that may work in my favor is that while I like the step itself, the stripper's pole is a pain in many ways. So I removed the pole, the plate that holds the hinge for it, and the plastic cover for the inside of the tailgate. Then there's a metal plate that replaces it and another tough plastic cover to protect the metal plate. Now I have a standard flat tailgate, which I wanted, and I suspect it makes my tailgate a lot less appealing because it isn't a standard replacement for some poor fool who had his stolen.
I did try a Jimmi Jammer but a body shop showed me how it can be popped in thirty seconds. It may slow people down and if they have to damage the tailgate to bypass it they may not want the tailgate at all, but I'm not sure I want to be left with an expensive finish repair because someone gouged up my tailgate. The repair on a couple cases I've seen was as much as my deductible, at which point the thief should just take the damned tailgate.
For those who think it isn't a problem, it's become huge, especially in the south and above all in Texas. They are stolen right and left. There are some (again, like me) who address the issue also by parking whenever possible with the truck backed into a wall or post (if you can't lower the tailgate, you can't steal it). For parking at night at home, that's definitely the easiest and most secure approach to tailgate theft.
On one of these forums I saw the best solution around. Just get a couple large stainless fender washers and install them under the torx bolts that secure the two tailgate cables to the sides of the box. There's a keyhole shape there that lets you loosen the cables and push them up and out, which is part of why stealing a tailgate is so easy. The washers block the keyhole. You may have to drill out the washers or fiddle with it, depending on your particular model and year, but it means someone has to disassemble the cable assembly to remove the tailgate. I do this in addition to a hose clamp on the tailgate hinge, plus a locking rear lock on the tailgate itself.
One other thing that may work in my favor is that while I like the step itself, the stripper's pole is a pain in many ways. So I removed the pole, the plate that holds the hinge for it, and the plastic cover for the inside of the tailgate. Then there's a metal plate that replaces it and another tough plastic cover to protect the metal plate. Now I have a standard flat tailgate, which I wanted, and I suspect it makes my tailgate a lot less appealing because it isn't a standard replacement for some poor fool who had his stolen.
I did try a Jimmi Jammer but a body shop showed me how it can be popped in thirty seconds. It may slow people down and if they have to damage the tailgate to bypass it they may not want the tailgate at all, but I'm not sure I want to be left with an expensive finish repair because someone gouged up my tailgate. The repair on a couple cases I've seen was as much as my deductible, at which point the thief should just take the damned tailgate.
For those who think it isn't a problem, it's become huge, especially in the south and above all in Texas. They are stolen right and left. There are some (again, like me) who address the issue also by parking whenever possible with the truck backed into a wall or post (if you can't lower the tailgate, you can't steal it). For parking at night at home, that's definitely the easiest and most secure approach to tailgate theft.
#48
Pop and Lock installed
I just installed the pop and lock. It was a very easy installation. The hardest part was finding the right signal wires. There were a couple of similar wires in the harness under the driver's door that slowed me down. The instructions were incorrect on one of the wire identifications. There is a separate thread on this forum that has the correct wire identification for a 2011.
I ran my wires along the driver's side chassis and through a hole located behind the rear driver's side passenger seat to connect to the signal wires under the driver's side door sill.
Some guys opted to use the signal wires under the passenger door sill because their truck was set for two key fob activations to unlock the passenger doors. Thus the tailgate actuator wouldn't get worn out from unlocking the driver's door.
I've noticed the tailgate lock functions manually with a bit more difficulty since putting the pop and lock on. However, it works fine either manually or electric. I like the security of knowing that when I lock the doors, no one can get to the contents of the truck bed.
I think I paid around $85 on Amazon.com but you may want to buy it direct from the manufacturer in case there is a warranty issue. I read that Amazon won't warranty the product.
Pop and Lock
There are a couple different styles of the lock actuator so be certain to buy the model specific for your truck.
There are also several helpful installation videos on Youtube, so be sure to check that resource out as well. Here is one that gives a rough example of the installation you may experience.
I didn't have to remove the lock from the tailgate to install the pop and lock. I only had to remove one nut (on the passenger side) from the lock assembly. Then I dropped the pop and lock over the OEM mounting bolt, and used the supplied nut. I did add a couple additional washers (three total) to add some space to the actuator mechanism to prevent any binding while operating.
I ran my wires along the driver's side chassis and through a hole located behind the rear driver's side passenger seat to connect to the signal wires under the driver's side door sill.
Some guys opted to use the signal wires under the passenger door sill because their truck was set for two key fob activations to unlock the passenger doors. Thus the tailgate actuator wouldn't get worn out from unlocking the driver's door.
I've noticed the tailgate lock functions manually with a bit more difficulty since putting the pop and lock on. However, it works fine either manually or electric. I like the security of knowing that when I lock the doors, no one can get to the contents of the truck bed.
I think I paid around $85 on Amazon.com but you may want to buy it direct from the manufacturer in case there is a warranty issue. I read that Amazon won't warranty the product.
Pop and Lock
There are a couple different styles of the lock actuator so be certain to buy the model specific for your truck.
There are also several helpful installation videos on Youtube, so be sure to check that resource out as well. Here is one that gives a rough example of the installation you may experience.
I didn't have to remove the lock from the tailgate to install the pop and lock. I only had to remove one nut (on the passenger side) from the lock assembly. Then I dropped the pop and lock over the OEM mounting bolt, and used the supplied nut. I did add a couple additional washers (three total) to add some space to the actuator mechanism to prevent any binding while operating.
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alvald83
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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08-30-2010 06:03 AM