Bought the truck with a bad 4.2. Cheapest I could do to repair or replace the motor was $900. Too much for a little v6 that didn't get better mileage than the modular v8s and has many problems. Had a decently built 302 in my garage that I took over 1 1/2 years collecting cheap parts for slowly. I took my time with it. So, why not. Cost me the same amount to make it fit and work than to put it back to stock with the 4.2. In the end, I could have a truck that'll be pretty quick.









I utilized the stock mounts on the frame and made a couple of nice, strong mounts with poly spring bushings.

The 5.0 is built up a bit. With what I've done, I should be around 350+ hp. I'm running a '93 Cobra computer. I'm going to try and use the stock ECM to control the 4R70W trans and keep the speedo working that came in the truck. I'm fairly confident I can do it. I'm going to dummy out a bunch of sensors for it and tie in the few key ones that are used to control the transmission. These trucks use the same sensor values for oil, coolant temp, tps, air charge, ect. Most of it will be switch and splice.

The exhaust, I'm running shorty headers down to a homemade Y-pipe to 1 or 2 3.5" straight through mufflers(depends on whether 1 will be enough). Intake will be a standard 5.0 truck ducting and a large K&N cone filter I had lying here. Stock radiator and an electric fan will do for cooling. I'm going to see if the factory FPMS will still work or not before I just jump it out to the Mustang ECM. Transmission will get a shift kit and a stronger torque converter. Stock 8.8 axle in the back temporarily(I don't think it will hold up to well). Larger brakes up front. Older Ford Saginaw power steering pump and bracket(factory A/C will still bolt in place). And I'm going to put in a 130amp alternator to help push a system I'm putting in.

Oh, and for appearance, I got my hands on a Roush Racing body kit. Its a silver metallic color, but we'll see how it looks. I might just do a 2 tone appearance with it.

In order to have running I need to get:
-higher stall, stronger torque converter(Hughes performance)
-stand alone harness for 5.0(Ford Racing)
-shift/correction kit for 4R70W(TCI)
-replace front brakes(going with slightly larger)
-run brake lines throughout whole truck

And since I just sold my old Bronco, I now have the funds to finish this.

 

Got the harness, and installed. Torque converter just came. Have the replacement brake line. Waiting for the shift kit. And need to pick up brake parts yet. Its going, just slower than I'd like. Looks like in order for the trans to run in normal mode I will have to fab up a way to put the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor on the motor. Crankshaft shouldn't bee too hard, but I'm still trying to figure out a way for the camshaft sensor to be put in and only spin exactly 1/2 of engine speed.

 

Sounds like a good project, keep the pictures coming!

Subscribing.

 

Accessories are on. I had to modify the 5.0 A/C bracket a lot to fit the stock pump from this truck. But I think its worth it to have it. Shift kit arrived. TCI makes a really nice kit. I got called in to work the rest of the week so I won't be working on it till probably later next week again.

Left to do:
wire in factory harness
rig up camshaft sensor
install torque converter and shift kit
build exhaust
run new brake lines through whole truck
rebuild front brakes
then turn the key to start

Heres some specs on the motor build:
302 EFI
*early 70s D2OE heads
~ported
~1.95 intake, 1.52 exhaust
~stainless valves
~Comp cams dual valve springs
~Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers
~Comp Cams push rods

*flat top, .030 over pistons w/moly rings
*unknown roller cam(more lift than stock, ran strong before)
*Comp Cams Magnum double roller timing chain
*Summit Racing blueprinted oil pump
*stock ported 5.0 truck lower intake
*port matched 5.8 upper
*ARP head bolts and main studs
*Summit bi-metal bearings
*Procomp fluid damper
*Edelbrock water pump
*24lb injectors
*A9P computer
*76mm MAF meter
*Heddmen shorty headers
*Summit 3" muffler
*MSD Pro Billet distributor
*MSD 6AL ignition module(maybe)
*Jacobs Electronics ceramic boot 8.5mm wires

 

Did some chopping and fit the stock fan shroud back in. I attached a set of dual fans to it very securely. The fan I was originally going to use is too thick to fit. This has almost no room. Any sort of front end collision I'm not going anywhere. I should have looked before I started cutting into the shroud as I had no idea it was full of fiberglass. Its itchy.



I had to grind, trim, drill, and tap the 5.0 A/C bracket to fit the one from the truck. Only 1 hole lined up correctly. The front two were 3/8" off. But, its in now, and I'll have A/C.



After relocating plugs and the radio antenna wire, the 5.0 computer fits nicely behind the passenger kick panel below the stock one.





It just fits. The coolest thing about the fans is that they only draw 5 amps when both are running. They seem to flow quite a bit. If I had to guess I'd say atleast 2,000cfm.

And yes, I can still change the belt. The one thats on it is a mock-up one. Its missing a rib or two. I also had to put a hose clamp through the bottom of the shroud to hold the lower radiator hose away from the power steering pulley. I'm going to have to get a different hose later. Or, find a way to shift the radiator forward more.

I think I'm going to tackle the transmission here next. Then brake lines and exhaust. And finally finish up the wiring and hook the intake up. I think its about a day for each one. So thats 4-5 more solid days of working on it. Plus another one for replacing the front brakes, tie rods, and other misc. details to work out. I also have to pop the seats out to clean the interior out. The rear window has been leaking for a while and theres a couple spots of mold showing.

 

I approve, just so you know!

nice job though! do i smell a power add in the future? cause that thing would be sick with a blower!

 

Probably not a blower. If I did anything it would be a turbo or two. Not for a long while though. I need this right now for a dd, too.

I'd take some input on figuring a way to put the camshaft position sensor on here so it reads correct rpm. Its a key component to the transmission working correctly.

 

well, you could always go edis and use a cam sensor out of an explorer.

 

I've looked for a decent write-up before and couldn't find anything short of swapping everything from an Explorer over. I already have the Ford Racing harness and X3Z computer. If I wanted to run Explorer stuff, that'd be too easy, lol. I had everything but the harness here before to run the set-up I have. The Cobra computer has a nice aggressive fuel and spark curve.

I got rained out yesterday as I was going to pull the transmission then. But, I figured out my intake, and did a bit of cleaning in the garage so I had a place to work on the transmission.

Figured out the camshaft sensor. I'm going to make a holder and put the sensor where the smog pump would have been. Since my cranskhaft pulley is 5". I can use a 2.5" alternator pulley welded onto the camshaft sensor to get the correct speed. I will have it just barely touching the belt so it gets minimal side load put on it(like if it was installed in the block).

And, found out my idea of upgrading the internals of the transmission isn't going to work. I found out the stock one-way clutch for reverse and the lock ring won't handle the rpm I'm going to put through them. At 5,000 rpm they would probably go "POOF!" and could easily destroy the trans. The intermediate shaft won't handle the power I'll put through it either. Found the updated, newer, one for dirt cheap on eBay.

 

So, not much has been done. I moved the A/C condenser over to the passenger side an inch. And started to move the radiator forward and over a bit. Its just too close. I'm going to have issues with the lower radiator hose hitting the power steering pulley. And its just too tight to work on. If I get it forward another inch or so, it will be much better.

Bought a couple factory FORD tie rod ends, pitman arms, and a reverse drum with mechanical diode from a '99 with low miles. I'm hitting up RockAuto.com for the other 2 tie rod ends and all the brakes. The auto shop I've worked at off and on here can't get as good a deal as they offer. And, just need the intermediate shaft for the trans and I have it all here.

I'm trying, but when work comes my way, I'm gone.

And forget my stupidity here. That would make the sensor spin twice as fast, not half speed. I think I figured out a way to mount the sensor and use a steel ring inside the crank pulley. I think if I leave the opening 1/4 way around(close signal for sensor), it should read well enough for operation.

 

Hi, Dan. I like what you've accomplished so far.

Looks like I'm picking up a 97 F-150 with a blown 4.2 for the price of scrap. I was pretty disappointed to find next to no information about swapping these trucks to a V8, but then here you are. It's nice to see it can be done without getting myself into a can of worms.

My truck's a 5 speed. I figure I'm going to have to get everything in one place and measure/compare before I'll know what I need.

I've got a 302 Explorer engine lined up, it has the 36-1 crank wheel and CMP required to make an OBD2 ECU happy, as well as the tuning gear if I ever want to play around like you are. If there's anything I can help you with in that regard, LMK. Although I will say I'd at the very least convert everything to run an OBD2 V8 auto ECU, anything else seems like a lot of work.

 

Cool, someone else putting an EFI 302 in. I've only seen people try carb'd ones so far, that got them running. I was trying to work with more of what I had. And I'll probably end up with a Baummanator to control the trans by this winter.

 

I am surprised that this swap doesn't happen every day somewhere in America!

My limited experience with 4.2's has always been blown up ,about to blow up or replacement 4.2 is about to or has blown up .

I haven't done any obd2 swaps yet , let alone Ford, is this mission impossible or just very difficult?

Could an 89 5.0 be updated ,intake ,sensor and connector wise to be used in a 97 e150 ?
Thanks and Regards,Ed

 

Well, nothing has happened yet. Tax returns and selling off some parts here soon should give it a kick in the *** towards being completed. And if I don't have too many projects already, theres 2 more trucks. I gotta get a turbo on my '96 F150 with a 4.9, and get some sort of suspension and the trans rebuilt for my '96 Bronco.

I'm glad I did more research. I may have the wrong flexplate on my engine. It may be a 28oz. With no name or numbers on it, Its hard to tell. All I know is the center is cut out into 6 spokes, and theres a shim plate that goes behind it. Without the shim plate, the starter hits. I think I'm better off going with an aftermarket replacement.

 

Well, this is turning into more and more(like any good project). First off, I'm switching this to a 2000 F150 4x4 frame. Besides it needing a new front CV shaft, its in excellent shape. The motor was blown and the body is shot. I can use parts from its 4r70w(5.4 version) to make mine a stronger version and 4x4. So, gotta lift and swap the cabs. Hell, the brake lines on the 2000 look brand new yet.

And, good thing its been taking me forever. The new Baumann TCU looks really sweet. I'm really impressed with what it offers and for the price its offered.

The weather is getting nicer, so I'm trying to get my hands on something to make lifting the cabs off easier. I've just been scraping by all winter and having to put money into the old worn out '96 F150 I'm driving took all the extra cash I had.