How to tell the difference betweeb stock altenator and 3G?
#16
#17
Crap, so I took it to Advance Auto and it checked out to be good. Is that tester accurate? Now I'm thinking what else it could be. The battery was pretty much dead when it cut out on me while I was driving. I guess maybe the battery? Will the 93 5.0 run if you disconnect the battery, or does it need a good battery to keep running?
#18
#19
Lol, ...Smallblock (Windsor, 289, 302, 351) as opposed to a Bigblock (Lima, 370, 429, 460)
The biggest problem with the 2G style alternator is the charging plug on the back that always melts down and either shorts out or causes a fire.
The 3G has a lug and stud for output and none of those problems associated with the plug of the earlier internally regulated alternators
The biggest problem with the 2G style alternator is the charging plug on the back that always melts down and either shorts out or causes a fire.
The 3G has a lug and stud for output and none of those problems associated with the plug of the earlier internally regulated alternators
#20
I must say it has been very reliable this 18 years, i've only replaced bearings so far (i think the ¿brushes? were replace once already), even though i saw the ¿brushes? are worn and will need replacing soon. The alternator has seen plenty on dirt, a lot of water (fording) and has given no troubles at all. 130A would be the right number for some of the mods i want, but this little guy has done very well so far. Good news indeed...
#21
What in the harness needs to be replaced in an 89, to use a 3g? I am putting in an electric fan, and a large inverter. I need to make the change because the system in it now won't keep up with the dealer instaled a/c, and the wipers and lights on all at the same time. It's been that way since I bought it new, and I get tired of sitting there running it a while with everything off, so that it will restart.
#22
Charlie, There are many threads with pictures.
Search for "3G swap" in this era forum.
Serpentine brackets may have to be clearanced for the larger housing of the 130A pivot mount version.
Side mounts bolt right up from what I understand, but I haven't done one.
If you have a 2G now, you need to use the existing Green/Red exciter wire and connect it to a 3G pigtail as shown below.
Then make and install a large charging cable *with a fuse or breaker in-line* to either the hot side of the starter solenoid or directly to the + battery terminal.
Toss the rest of the old alternator harness away.
You can buy a harness from RJM if you don't feel like soldering it up yourself.
My dash lights don't dim, nor my headlights. The blower doesn't show a drop on the factory voltmeter.
Search for "3G swap" in this era forum.
Serpentine brackets may have to be clearanced for the larger housing of the 130A pivot mount version.
Side mounts bolt right up from what I understand, but I haven't done one.
If you have a 2G now, you need to use the existing Green/Red exciter wire and connect it to a 3G pigtail as shown below.
Then make and install a large charging cable *with a fuse or breaker in-line* to either the hot side of the starter solenoid or directly to the + battery terminal.
Toss the rest of the old alternator harness away.
You can buy a harness from RJM if you don't feel like soldering it up yourself.
My dash lights don't dim, nor my headlights. The blower doesn't show a drop on the factory voltmeter.
#23
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stangbanger
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
11-16-2008 09:32 AM
pootscratch89
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
02-23-2006 09:35 AM