anyone have info for cab removal?
#1
#2
This is from what I can remember doing to get the cab up and off..
Remove grill and hood, followed by the front clip. The front clip is the black plastic bar that holds the headlights. This hinders access to the fender bolts to the radiator support. Once you remove the clip, unbolt the fenders from the radiator support.
Unbolt the inner fender wells from the fenders. Unbolt the fenders from the cab cowl area, the lower fender bolt near the doors.
Unbolt your IDM from the fender, along with the battery support plates, and electrical components on the passenger side (starter relay, etc.).
Remove your fenders.
Once you have the driver fender removed, you can access the harness to the cab very easily. Unbolt both harnesses (ECU and Chassis Connectors).
Unbolt the brake lines from the master cylinder.
From inside the cab, under the dash, you can remove the steering bar bolt from the knuckle, and drop the steering bar out of the cab.
Now, instead of disconnecting the heater hoses and AC lines, or compressor from the brackets, unbolt your heater box from the cab. It will slide out, then you can unplug it from the cab.
Depending on if you have an Automatic or a Manual, you will need to address that. For Automatic, you can disconnect the bracket and cable from the transmission. This will go with the cab when its removed. If its a manual, you will need to disconnect the clutch hose from the cab, and the shifter.
For 4wd models, you can remove the shifter from the cab.
The bolts for the cab to chassis (I want to say there are 4 of them) can be unbolted.
Jack the cab up off the chassis, and roll the chassis out from under your cab.
Double check everything before you roll out, just to make sure you didn't miss anything.
Remove grill and hood, followed by the front clip. The front clip is the black plastic bar that holds the headlights. This hinders access to the fender bolts to the radiator support. Once you remove the clip, unbolt the fenders from the radiator support.
Unbolt the inner fender wells from the fenders. Unbolt the fenders from the cab cowl area, the lower fender bolt near the doors.
Unbolt your IDM from the fender, along with the battery support plates, and electrical components on the passenger side (starter relay, etc.).
Remove your fenders.
Once you have the driver fender removed, you can access the harness to the cab very easily. Unbolt both harnesses (ECU and Chassis Connectors).
Unbolt the brake lines from the master cylinder.
From inside the cab, under the dash, you can remove the steering bar bolt from the knuckle, and drop the steering bar out of the cab.
Now, instead of disconnecting the heater hoses and AC lines, or compressor from the brackets, unbolt your heater box from the cab. It will slide out, then you can unplug it from the cab.
Depending on if you have an Automatic or a Manual, you will need to address that. For Automatic, you can disconnect the bracket and cable from the transmission. This will go with the cab when its removed. If its a manual, you will need to disconnect the clutch hose from the cab, and the shifter.
For 4wd models, you can remove the shifter from the cab.
The bolts for the cab to chassis (I want to say there are 4 of them) can be unbolted.
Jack the cab up off the chassis, and roll the chassis out from under your cab.
Double check everything before you roll out, just to make sure you didn't miss anything.
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#8
Done a few of these,even pulled a wrecked diesel extended cab off and left the front clip on and installed a gas cab converted to the psd.One advantage is for downpiipe clearance prep it is much easier to do with the cab off.There are 4 main bolts that are a 3/4 nut on the bottom side.Two in front on the outside of the frame rails that when pull carpeting ,there is a oblong rubber plug to pull to access the bolts.The rear are towards the back edge of the cab and are easily visible when pulled carpet back.
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ford1341
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
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03-20-2014 06:41 AM