Hello new here need some help with 1950 F3
#47
#48
I'd get the engine running first before worrying about the transmission and rear axle.
Just change the oil and filter and flush out the cooling system. Pull the spark plugs and see how they look. If they look decent clean and gap them and re-install. That's what I'd do first. If you can get it cranking over and starting, or at least popping, then change out the spark plugs and ignition wires and go from there.
I wouldn't go too nuts at first just in case there's a major problem with the engine. I'd just get her started to see if it would run. Again, that's what I'd do.
Just change the oil and filter and flush out the cooling system. Pull the spark plugs and see how they look. If they look decent clean and gap them and re-install. That's what I'd do first. If you can get it cranking over and starting, or at least popping, then change out the spark plugs and ignition wires and go from there.
I wouldn't go too nuts at first just in case there's a major problem with the engine. I'd just get her started to see if it would run. Again, that's what I'd do.
#49
You can get all of the tune-up stuff to get it running at a local Napa Auto store (plugs, points, spark plug wires, dist cap & rotor). Coolant is the usual green coolant, or maybe run it with some clean water to check things out before you pour in a bunch of anti-freeze only to find a leaky hose.
Pay attention to the motor oil that you buy for these flat-tappet engines. At the request of the EPA, the oil companies took the zinc di-thio phosphate our of the oil to save catalytic converters.....most of the new stuff has roller lifters, so it works there, but not on the oldies. Royal Purple, Brad Penn, or the new Valvoline racing oils all have enough zinc for flat tappets...you can also simply add ZDDP additive to your favorite brand.
Transmissions and read ends use pretty standard gear oil. Any of the 75w90 gear oils should be fine.
Napa is also a good source for brake parts....you need brakes, but you may hold off until you figure out what to do with the rear axle/wheel combination.
Welcome to the site!
Dan
Pay attention to the motor oil that you buy for these flat-tappet engines. At the request of the EPA, the oil companies took the zinc di-thio phosphate our of the oil to save catalytic converters.....most of the new stuff has roller lifters, so it works there, but not on the oldies. Royal Purple, Brad Penn, or the new Valvoline racing oils all have enough zinc for flat tappets...you can also simply add ZDDP additive to your favorite brand.
Transmissions and read ends use pretty standard gear oil. Any of the 75w90 gear oils should be fine.
Napa is also a good source for brake parts....you need brakes, but you may hold off until you figure out what to do with the rear axle/wheel combination.
Welcome to the site!
Dan
#50
thanks yeah i am going to get it running before doing the rear end trany, brakes etc.
but yeah i wanted to know what type of oil i should use and coolant and i can get everything at Napa which sounds nice, thanks guys I appreciate it!
oh what should the oil weight that i should be using??
but yeah i wanted to know what type of oil i should use and coolant and i can get everything at Napa which sounds nice, thanks guys I appreciate it!
oh what should the oil weight that i should be using??
#54
#55
Well i have started working on her a little bit. I need a new fuel line where is the best place to get one etc? and best way to drain fuel tank it is super clean inside truck so no rust so its probably just all the old gas inside etc.
Also best air cleaner and anything else i should look into to get this baby running after sitting awhile?
How easy or the points to install and adjust any how tos? thanks guys
Also best air cleaner and anything else i should look into to get this baby running after sitting awhile?
How easy or the points to install and adjust any how tos? thanks guys
#56
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