Anyone know where the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model. Thank you for your time in advance.

 

In the manual, it shows the blower motor resistor as being on the plenum.
If you can find the blower motor, the resistor will be mounted on the same panel as the motor.
Removal and Installation
1. Remove the RH A-pillar lower trim panel.
2. Disconnect the blower resistor electrical connector.
3. Remove the 2 screws and the blower motor resistor.
4. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
tom

 

Thanks. Will take a look.

 

Our escape blower went from working fine to not working at all. I checked all of the fuses that I thought could be affecting it per the manual. How do I know if I need to replace the resistor and is that likely the problem?

 

The blower motor resistor block is relevant to the manual climate control only. If you have the automatic climate control, it does not have the blower resistor block, has a blower motor speed controller instead.

If you have the manual climate control, the usual symptom of a blown blower resistor block is that the fan will run on the High-Speed setting, but will not run on one or more lower speed settings. This is because the block's resistors are in series with the blower motor only for the non High-Speed settings.

If it indeed is a blown resistor, do not run the new resistor block without it first being properly installed into the plenum. The resistors on the block are air-cooled, they require airflow to avoid burning up.

 

Did you check the fuse in the power distribution box in the engine compartment?
According to a pdf owner's manual for the 2009 Escape, there's a blower motor fuse there under the hood, position #12 (40A) ....

 

I tried the fuse which was fine. The ford dealership charged me 89$ to tell me I needed a blower motor resistor for an additional 275$ installed. I left shortly after saying no thx and to my shock, the blower works now. Does my escape even have a resistor since I have dual electronic climate control? Any ideas on why it would just start working again?

 

I vote with Torky2. If you have auto climate control, either single or dual, the blower motor speed is regulated by a controller rather than a resistor pack. That allows the blower speed to vary over a larger range.
Most controllers will still allow the blower to work at the highest speed when they fail as they are 'out of the circuit' when you manually select high speed. Of course, you have to disable the auto control to get the blower set to high. On some cars, for example, a Honda Odyssey, the A/C may be disabled if the controller dies as the blower speed is monitored, and damage may occur to the system if it is run with a disabled blower.
tom

 

Our 2008 Ford Escape A/C blower only works on HIGH and we have already replaced the resistor, and still only working on HIGH. Is there anything else it could be? If there is anyone that's willing to answer that would be great! Thanks in advance!

 

It sounds like the switch itself is bad or its wiring.

 

Answered over in the HVAC section, but memory seems to be better back then about the blower controller. It would be an electronic gizmo that has a triac that is turned on and off to 'buzz' power to the blower motor instead of supplying a constant fixed, resistor pack modified, DC voltage. Imagine spinning a fan blade by tapping on one of the blades every now and then. The more times you tap per minute, the quicker the blade will rotate.
Controllers can fail totally, of allow full conduction if the part shorts, but not any intermediate speeds. Honda Odysseys would cook their controllers as they were mounted in the bottom of the plenum where leaves, dirt, etc could accumulate and prevent it from being cooled by the airflow.
tom

 

If the Escape has automatic climate controls, it has the blower speed control module.

If the Escape has the manual controls, it has a resistor assembly.

A faulty resistor/blower module, the control head, or the wiring harness are the only things that can be faulty.

Note: It is too often a mistake to assume that any new part is good. If should be deemed good only when you've proven it to be so. Been there, done that, learned the lesson the hard way.

 

I am trying to replace the blower motor resistor in my 05 Escape, but I cannot for the life of me get both screws out to remove it. I can get the left screw barely out, but not even close on the right screw. Am I missing something?