I went and did it
#106
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Posts: 1,423
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Glad you had a safe trip! You can't get that new truck feeling any other way It's hard to keep from pushing that small pedal after a few miles.... but it sounds as thought you did good! Your truck and mine could have been painted on the same day, I didn't realize they were the same color. Both '74 F100 4x4's. I wonder if they came out of the same plant?
Be looking forward to your up coming posts!
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Be looking forward to your up coming posts!
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#107
#109
#110
Pilot bushing extraction
Some of you guys may know this one but I'm sure many don't.
As nice as they are (I have one) an expensive puller is not needed to extract a pilot bushing. You can rely on shade tree mechanics and old fashion horse sense.
Since I was away from my tool box and my bro doesn't have a bearing puller, we used an old trick.
As the bushing sits in place on the back of the crank, there is a small space behind it.
The pilot bushings inside diameter is almost exactly the same size as a 7/16 socket.
Stuff string cheese into the hole of the bushing and fill up all the space you can behind the bearing. String cheese hangs together real well.
Insert a bolt of sufficient length to make a flat surface, backwards into the socket (see pic).
Insert the socket into the center of the bushing and give it a whack with a hammer (should take three hits).
The cheese will hydraulic out the bushing easy as pie.
Then clean and keep your bushing with FOMOCO on it for a paper weight for your desk 'cause they ain't makin' no mo'.
As nice as they are (I have one) an expensive puller is not needed to extract a pilot bushing. You can rely on shade tree mechanics and old fashion horse sense.
Since I was away from my tool box and my bro doesn't have a bearing puller, we used an old trick.
As the bushing sits in place on the back of the crank, there is a small space behind it.
The pilot bushings inside diameter is almost exactly the same size as a 7/16 socket.
Stuff string cheese into the hole of the bushing and fill up all the space you can behind the bearing. String cheese hangs together real well.
Insert a bolt of sufficient length to make a flat surface, backwards into the socket (see pic).
Insert the socket into the center of the bushing and give it a whack with a hammer (should take three hits).
The cheese will hydraulic out the bushing easy as pie.
Then clean and keep your bushing with FOMOCO on it for a paper weight for your desk 'cause they ain't makin' no mo'.
#113
The reason
Some of you may remember that the reason I was looking for this particular model of truck is that I had one as a kid that I loved.
Well my brother (God love 'im) was searching my moms picture box and came up with the only picture of it that I know of.
Here it is.
Check out those side pipes baby.
White letters out.
I broke those spoke wheels around every weld jumping that thing.
YeeeeeeeHawww
Well my brother (God love 'im) was searching my moms picture box and came up with the only picture of it that I know of.
Here it is.
Check out those side pipes baby.
White letters out.
I broke those spoke wheels around every weld jumping that thing.
YeeeeeeeHawww
#115
Remove shocks, springs, perches, c clips, and rear bushings.
Advise penetrating oil of some sort the day before.
Be careful of your brake line to the center t. If you let the axle down to far you bust it.
When reassembling we started with the rear arm bushings so that we could draw the axle back into the rear clip by using a come along chained to the rear axle. This really helped deal with the weight and general hugeness of the axle. You must pull from the center so that the axle doesn't role forward or back. And keep it level side to side or the bolt holes won't line up.
Recommend impact gun. You'll where yourself out doing it by hand.
After you get the c clips back tight it's an easy finish.
Hope that helps.
#116
Actively for about 5 or 6 years. I had missed a few that I didn't bid enough for or didn't find in time. There was one in Tahoe I was close on but the guy sold it when someone showed up with cash. Rats. It's Ok though I finally got it. I'm actually glad because this one has lots o' trim. And we all need trim.
#117
It's a three hour job for two guys.
Remove shocks, springs, perches, c clips, and rear bushings.
Advise penetrating oil of some sort the day before.
Be careful of your brake line to the center t. If you let the axle down to far you bust it.
When reassembling we started with the rear arm bushings so that we could draw the axle back into the rear clip by using a come along chained to the rear axle. This really helped deal with the weight and general hugeness of the axle. You must pull from the center so that the axle doesn't role forward or back. And keep it level side to side or the bolt holes won't line up.
Recommend impact gun. You'll where yourself out doing it by hand.
After you get the c clips back tight it's an easy finish.
Hope that helps.
Remove shocks, springs, perches, c clips, and rear bushings.
Advise penetrating oil of some sort the day before.
Be careful of your brake line to the center t. If you let the axle down to far you bust it.
When reassembling we started with the rear arm bushings so that we could draw the axle back into the rear clip by using a come along chained to the rear axle. This really helped deal with the weight and general hugeness of the axle. You must pull from the center so that the axle doesn't role forward or back. And keep it level side to side or the bolt holes won't line up.
Recommend impact gun. You'll where yourself out doing it by hand.
After you get the c clips back tight it's an easy finish.
Hope that helps.
That is amazing you found that truck, like said, its a twin to your first, thanks for the info too.
#118
Other wise yes, jacks.
Yeah 5 or 6 inches gets it and you can do it one side at a time so that you're not actually moving the whole axle at one time.
No you do not have to disconnect any steering.