Fuel shut off solonoid?
#1
06-01-2011, 04:44 PM
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Alpine, Tx
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Fuel shut off solonoid?
My 91 F350 7.3L N.A. engine has a few issues that are just driving me nuts.
I think they are possibly all related, but maybe not.
Sometimes the engine will fire up, then the rpms rev for a second or two, and the engine dies. Like it ran out of fuel. After several minutes of cranking she will fire back up. Usually I have to bleed the air out of the schreider valve on the fuel filter housing. I've even bled a few of the injectors to get it to start back up faster.
My guess is the fuel shutoff solonoid inside the IP is sticking. reason I believe this is sometimes when I turn the key off, the engine stays running until I cycle the key 2 or 3 times. This would indicate a sticking shut off correct?
The other issue may or may not be related...
The key in run position does not let some of the dash/guages operate unless I hold it a tad more to the start position. Like it needs to be adjusted on the top of the steering column.
A few years ago I installed a new ignition switch to try and cure this, but it only seems to be getting worse. I've been living with it since I don't use the truck much, but now I've made up my mind to fix it.
I checked, and the ignition switch doesn't feel loose, but I didn't lower the column to inspect. I just don't feel like the switch is causing the issue with the fuel shut off valve. So maybe 2 seperate problems, I don't know...
I don't have a wiring diagram, but was wondering what powers the fuel shut off? Anyone have a diagram they would be willing to share?
I think they are possibly all related, but maybe not.
Sometimes the engine will fire up, then the rpms rev for a second or two, and the engine dies. Like it ran out of fuel. After several minutes of cranking she will fire back up. Usually I have to bleed the air out of the schreider valve on the fuel filter housing. I've even bled a few of the injectors to get it to start back up faster.
My guess is the fuel shutoff solonoid inside the IP is sticking. reason I believe this is sometimes when I turn the key off, the engine stays running until I cycle the key 2 or 3 times. This would indicate a sticking shut off correct?
The other issue may or may not be related...
The key in run position does not let some of the dash/guages operate unless I hold it a tad more to the start position. Like it needs to be adjusted on the top of the steering column.
A few years ago I installed a new ignition switch to try and cure this, but it only seems to be getting worse. I've been living with it since I don't use the truck much, but now I've made up my mind to fix it.
I checked, and the ignition switch doesn't feel loose, but I didn't lower the column to inspect. I just don't feel like the switch is causing the issue with the fuel shut off valve. So maybe 2 seperate problems, I don't know...
I don't have a wiring diagram, but was wondering what powers the fuel shut off? Anyone have a diagram they would be willing to share?
#2
06-01-2011, 07:34 PM
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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you have a couple problems there.
first is the ignition switch or wiring based on your symptoms.
the reason the engine starts up just fine at first and then stalls,is because there is a little fuel left in the ip that didn't drain back,but the filter is empty along with the line all the way back to the tank.
your experiencing this engines most common problem.often referred to as "air intrusion."
there are many places that can allow air entry.the most common by far is the injector lines.
an "injector install kit" comes with everything required.
other area's of focus should be the filter head such as the water drain,fuel heater,and Schedar vale for examples.
many people including myself opt to remove and block off the old style mechanical pump and install an electric fuel pump.
might i suggest sending a pm to:
GenLightening
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: GenLightening
if interested in one.he'll set you right up with most likely the best diesel rated fuel pumps for these trucks.
then latter on,if this problem arises once you fix the leak now,rather than requiring you to heat up that expensive starter like you've been doing,just to get fuel back up to the engine.you can let battery power handle that task,while saving the starter for starting rather than priming your diesel.
on top of a dry fuel system,with your ignition switch/wiring problem,you also may not be getting power to the glow plugs.making starting the engine even harder.
you can test if the FSS is operating correctly,by simply unplugging the wire clip to it.you should hear it click each time you apply and remove power.
if it does (which i think it will) this means the ignition switch/wiring is faulty.
on a side note;
while your waiting to fix your fuel issue;remember to crank for 15 seconds at a time MAX. followed by a MIN of 2 minutes cool down time.
otherwise your starter won't last very long.
with diesel starters being around 3-$400 a pop,you sure don't want to burn one up.
good luck!
first is the ignition switch or wiring based on your symptoms.
the reason the engine starts up just fine at first and then stalls,is because there is a little fuel left in the ip that didn't drain back,but the filter is empty along with the line all the way back to the tank.
your experiencing this engines most common problem.often referred to as "air intrusion."
there are many places that can allow air entry.the most common by far is the injector lines.
an "injector install kit" comes with everything required.
other area's of focus should be the filter head such as the water drain,fuel heater,and Schedar vale for examples.
many people including myself opt to remove and block off the old style mechanical pump and install an electric fuel pump.
might i suggest sending a pm to:
GenLightening
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: GenLightening
if interested in one.he'll set you right up with most likely the best diesel rated fuel pumps for these trucks.
then latter on,if this problem arises once you fix the leak now,rather than requiring you to heat up that expensive starter like you've been doing,just to get fuel back up to the engine.you can let battery power handle that task,while saving the starter for starting rather than priming your diesel.
on top of a dry fuel system,with your ignition switch/wiring problem,you also may not be getting power to the glow plugs.making starting the engine even harder.
you can test if the FSS is operating correctly,by simply unplugging the wire clip to it.you should hear it click each time you apply and remove power.
if it does (which i think it will) this means the ignition switch/wiring is faulty.
on a side note;
while your waiting to fix your fuel issue;remember to crank for 15 seconds at a time MAX. followed by a MIN of 2 minutes cool down time.
otherwise your starter won't last very long.
with diesel starters being around 3-$400 a pop,you sure don't want to burn one up.
good luck!
