Torque Converter/Flexplate Problem
#1
Torque Converter/Flexplate Problem
I originally posted this in the bronco section, but I'm not getting any responses. Anyone have any ideas?
I just installed my engine/trans/transfer case, & I'm having a problem. The 6 o'clock converter stud doesn't penetrate the flexplate so I can get a nut on it. The others I can see have at least 2 threads. To make matters worse, I can't turn the engine when it's mated to the trans (both turn when they're apart). I've pulled it apart & reseated it about 10 times now, & no luck. The engine is a 5.0l, trans is a C4. The flexplate is the recommended one from the vendor and it's not hitting the converter drain plug. Getting pretty aggravated on this one, since this setup (with stock flexplate) was bolted to a 302. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I just installed my engine/trans/transfer case, & I'm having a problem. The 6 o'clock converter stud doesn't penetrate the flexplate so I can get a nut on it. The others I can see have at least 2 threads. To make matters worse, I can't turn the engine when it's mated to the trans (both turn when they're apart). I've pulled it apart & reseated it about 10 times now, & no luck. The engine is a 5.0l, trans is a C4. The flexplate is the recommended one from the vendor and it's not hitting the converter drain plug. Getting pretty aggravated on this one, since this setup (with stock flexplate) was bolted to a 302. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
#2
I originally posted this in the bronco section, but I'm not getting any responses. Anyone have any ideas?
I just installed my engine/trans/transfer case, & I'm having a problem. The 6 o'clock converter stud doesn't penetrate the flexplate so I can get a nut on it. The others I can see have at least 2 threads. To make matters worse, I can't turn the engine when it's mated to the trans (both turn when they're apart). I've pulled it apart & reseated it about 10 times now, & no luck. The engine is a 5.0l, trans is a C4. The flexplate is the recommended one from the vendor and it's not hitting the converter drain plug. Getting pretty aggravated on this one, since this setup (with stock flexplate) was bolted to a 302. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I just installed my engine/trans/transfer case, & I'm having a problem. The 6 o'clock converter stud doesn't penetrate the flexplate so I can get a nut on it. The others I can see have at least 2 threads. To make matters worse, I can't turn the engine when it's mated to the trans (both turn when they're apart). I've pulled it apart & reseated it about 10 times now, & no luck. The engine is a 5.0l, trans is a C4. The flexplate is the recommended one from the vendor and it's not hitting the converter drain plug. Getting pretty aggravated on this one, since this setup (with stock flexplate) was bolted to a 302. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
#3
Yes, fully seated, & the trans is fully bolted to the block, yet the studs barely penetrate the flexplate (& don't at 6 o'clock). At first I was thinking someone broke part of the stud off, but it's still stamped with a "c" on the end, & if I pull it apart & rotate the converter, 6 o'clock is still bad. Not sure how anything more can be wrong since the trans is fully seated. I imagine converters get pulled out just a little as the nuts are torqued, but there should be a few threads through the flexplate to start with.
#5
#6
Are you saying the bolt will not screw in?
Could be the wrong converter. The end of the crank may not fit inside the opening in the converter, thus not allowing the bolts to tighten up. I ran into this some yrs ago. Wrong converter for the crank end. The only thing I would say is remove the converter and measure both the crank end and the inside of the converter.
Course I'm old and most likely have no idea what I'm talking about. I'm most likely thinking about a VW. HAAAAaaaaaaaaaaa.
Could be the wrong converter. The end of the crank may not fit inside the opening in the converter, thus not allowing the bolts to tighten up. I ran into this some yrs ago. Wrong converter for the crank end. The only thing I would say is remove the converter and measure both the crank end and the inside of the converter.
Course I'm old and most likely have no idea what I'm talking about. I'm most likely thinking about a VW. HAAAAaaaaaaaaaaa.
#7
2) Is there a Ford ID number stamped on the flexplate, like C8OP-C?
3) How many teeth on the flexplate, 157 or 164?
If 1 and/or 2 are unknown, ask the "recommender" what applications the flexplate applies to.
Fritz: There are studs on the converter, all are the same length. Lock nuts retain it to the flexplate (converter lock nuts should not be used more than once).
'Course I'm old (older than you), but...you and I usually know what the he!! we are speaking about. IMO, it's either the wrong converter or the flexplate.
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#10
[QUOTE=The Masked Rider;10400029]Are you saying the bolt will not screw in?
Could be the wrong converter. The end of the crank may not fit inside the opening in the converter, thus not allowing the bolts to tighten up. I ran into this some yrs ago. Wrong converter for the crank end. The only thing I would say is remove the converter and measure both the crank end and the inside of the converter.
Course I'm old and most likely have no idea what I'm talking about. I'm most likely thinking about a VW. HAAAAaaaaaaaaaaa.[/QUOTE
X2, more than likely he has the wrong TC.
Could be the wrong converter. The end of the crank may not fit inside the opening in the converter, thus not allowing the bolts to tighten up. I ran into this some yrs ago. Wrong converter for the crank end. The only thing I would say is remove the converter and measure both the crank end and the inside of the converter.
Course I'm old and most likely have no idea what I'm talking about. I'm most likely thinking about a VW. HAAAAaaaaaaaaaaa.[/QUOTE
X2, more than likely he has the wrong TC.
#11
Well, live & learn...I've done a lot of that. It wouldn't be a problem pulling it apatrt except for the transfer case. It really makes things harder, & I don't want to seperate it again. Like I posted earlier, the same C4/TC combo was bolted to a 1976 302, that's what's making this a pain. The flexplate is the standard 5.0 swap plate (164 tooth, 50oz). I've never heard of anyone having a problem with the end of the TC being too big for the crank, in this application, but there's like a billion different TCs out there. That may explain why I can't turn the engine over manually too, if the TC is crammed into the C4. If that's the case & it broke the tranny (heard horror stories about that when guys didn't line up the drain plug), I think I'll burn the whole thing down...
#13
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