That sludge gunk that you are finding is exactly what will go through the engine if you introduce high detergent oil or something like seafoam to the lubrication system. If you clean the valve lifter chambers while the pan is off the majority of the sludge should drop out of the engine.
I believe you have access to the bottom of the clutch when the oil pan is off the engine.

 

I got a few minutes so I pulled the manifolds and took a peek behind the side covers. There was a little bit of dried flaky grease in the two front most covers, with a thin layer of grease on the bottom. The rearmost cover had less flaky grease but quite a bit more goopy grease on the bottom. It doesn't look like any type of vacuum is going to help too much. How clean does everything need to be? The springs and other such pieces seem to only have a very thin layer of dried gunk. I am thinking of getting some old rags and soaking them is mineral spirits (or other like cleaner) and just wiping out everything I can see.

 

That will do it! Let it air out before you button it up. Might as well check valve clearances and record them, useful later.

 

I have started taking the oil pan off. It looks like I may have to take off the stater and maybe take a couple bolts off of the bell-housing? Is this right? How hard should it be to get off?

 

I don't know why you'd need to undo any bellhousing bolts, but there should be two or three bolts on a brace that goes from the rear of the sump to the flywheel cover. If your truck still has the original "dust shield" at the very back of the pan, the bolts holding that on are actually two of the oil pan bolts, straddling the rear main area. Yes, you will likely need to remove the starter, at least the brace from the front of it to the oil pan, but if you can get the bolts hidden by the starter with it in place, you will save some grief. It is also necessary on an F-1 to jack the truck up a little by the frame to get the pan clear of the axle, may not be on a big truck.

 

Good news is the pan is off (the frame did need to be jacked up) and headed to the hot tank along with the manifolds, side covers, and air cleaner (thought I might as well). The bad news is that there appears to be shredded chunks of the clutch disk in the starter hole, so I am thinking that the reason why the clutch felt like it was non-existent is because it was.I thought about getting a can of carb cleaner and blasting off the crankcase while it was exposed but I'm assuming this falls under the heading of not wanting to push gunk deeper into the block. Also, would rebuilding the oil pump be a bad idea? I know joblotauto can do it. What do you guys think?

 

Can you post a pic of the crankcase? I'm surprised stuff would build up on the rotating stuff. Anything you can wipe is good.

On the pump, it's worth soaking the inlet strainer and tube. It might be worth taking the pump out and cleaning and disassembling, see what shape it's in. Have you pulled a rod cap or main cap? Worth checking the bearings with plastigage and seeing what shape they're in. It will never be easier!

 

The crankcase looks good so I am not going to worry about it. I am having trouble finding the front and rear seals that fit between the crank and the oil pan. I have found all the other gaskets so where should I get these?

 

Those rope seals should come in an oil pan gasket set, or can be bought separately.

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50028+2028079

 

An error message appears when I click on your link. I checked the NAPA site and I could not fine a pan gasket kit for that engine or the rope seals individually, is there another source or does NAPA have them and I'm just an idiot?

 

Sorry, it was apparently because I was logged in to my profile on NAPA. Here ya go, see if this works or else you can search on www.napaonline.com for Felpro BS106422 or OS2996C1

Rope seal only:
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50028+2028079

oil pan gasket set
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50028+2028079

 

I scoured the site and called the store to no avail... It seems you know NAPA's stock better then their own employees! Any chance they have a carb kit as well?

 

I give up on NAPA's website, try Red's Headers, Red's Headers and Speed Equipment or any shop that handles FelPro. FelPro calls it a "rear main seal kit"

I would buy your carb rebuild kit from Vintage Speed, Vintage Speed

 

No, you misunderstood me. Your new links worked perfectly and I was able to get the gaskets I needed! I was just wondering if you happened to know if NAPA also had a carb kit available. It would also be nice to know where to find the torque specs for everything, any ideas on that?

 

Oh, glad it worked out. The torque specs are in the workshop manual, reprints are only $25. They are also here:

Flathead Torque Specifications for 1949-53 V8
Cylinder Head Torque Specifications

No, NAPA doesn't appear to carry a carb rebuild kit, and I wouldn't buy it if they did. The ones from Vintage Speed have the correct type of power valves.