Well, it kinda is. Just two holes and half a "V" short.

 

Ok so I checked the gas tank and it was very clean, so I removed the gas line from the carb and turn on the new fuel pump. Some nasty rusted looking gas came out for about a second and then clean fuel followed. I put the line back on the carb and let the pump fill the bowl. I can work the linkage and make gas squirt out of the jet but I can't get the truck to start, even with starting fluid. The guy I bought it from made it run for me before I bought it by putting something (I'm assuming gas) down the carb and hitting the start. Could he have been putting something else down? What should I try? I want to make sure the engine runs reliably before I go tearing it apart to clean it.

 

check for spark ,,don't pour gas down the carb if it back fires you could lose the truck...just pop the distributor cap and check the points gap and cap first..we'r waiting to hear it run...

 

I replaced the plug wires, no spark. So I replaced the ignition coil, still no spark. I am starting to think that some of the wiring (which is already very frayed and not working in some parts) may have rattled loose while the guy was delivering it. I am going to look into a new wiring harness and just rewire the whole thing. It doesnt look like it should be that bad.

 

run a jumper wire to the + side of the coil..with the coil wire just off the manifold tap the power to the coil connector..if you get spark ..then you can try cranking it up with the jumper Umm points ..do you have them? or electronic...have you checked the gap .. and spark at the points ??

 

Remember guys, if this thing is stock it will be six volt positive ground I do believe. I think they were still positive ground. And is that thing front mount distributor? I don't remember when they went to side mount on the flathead sixes. Nahh, just checked and it should be side mount distributor starting in '48

 

crap I for got the positive ground thing ..shouda asked first right..

 

Snake oils are NOT bad when used on a regular basis and used in a fairly sludge free engine, basically used for what they were intended for. The sooner people learn that it is not a mechanic in a bottle but a cleaning agent the better. Knowitall parts store counter morons sell it as a cure all, and they are not. They are simply a cleaner/lube that wont fix anything.

I run a bottle in the crank case for 8 minutes, then drain and finish oil change. I do not DRIVE with anything but oil in my engines ever, and I only do this twice a year. It does not drop any huge sludge chunks out, it just cleans things up a little. Am I killing my engines? I doubt it since I have done it to everything I have owned and I am yet to kill a vehicle.

 

It is a positive ground, and it is a side mount ditributer. So where exactly do I run what jumper to test spark? I have not checked the points gap yet but the points did look very good. I did not check the gap because I was not getting spark at the plugs or from the coil to the distributer, so I thought getting spark to the cap would come first.

 

Well, I figured it out. My ignorance of vintage vehicle electrical systems sent me on a wild goose chase for a non-existent problem. I thought that the keyed ignition had been bypassed because everything else on the truck would work without the key in. I didn't know that the key just fed power to the ignition coil, thereby allowing it to start. Once I thought of this, I jumped in and pumped the gas a couple times and she fired right up! The problem of a seemingly non-existent clutch is still a problem however. Does anyone if there is an access cover to the clutch for adjustment?

 

Yeah, these old systems were basic, no interlocks. What you want is what you get....Start in gear, lights on till the battery runs down, no warning, no abs, no warning lights. Just basic honest trucks.
Non existant clutch? I am going to take a SWAG and say your clutch disk is rusted to the pressure plate and flywheel, not uncommon for a vehicle that has set for a long time. Easiest fix, usually works is to block the clutch down in gear and rock the truck back and forth. Or, if you have a large area such as a parking lot, field available where you can drive it around without fear of someone getting in your way try driving it around while holding the clutch down and it may break free. On the gas, off the gas and repeat. And use the brakes. Yes, you can start it in gear, second should work.
It has been a long time but I really don't remember a removable cover for the clutch, just remove the tranny if it comes to that. Crawl under it and look. There should be an adjustment in the clutch linkage. Keep us posted on the old beast.
FWIW, I had an F4 stake truck of that vintage years ago.

 

There is an inspection cover at the top of the bellhousing, if you take out the trans cover plate in the cab it will be obvious. I think, couldn't swear, that you could get a screwdriver down to the clutch disc thru there, and try to pry it loose. At the least you could see how things are working. If the pressure plate isn't moving enough, it needs adjustment, which is done by taking the swivel end on the linkage off the peg it connects to, and screwing it in/out. You want there to be no pressure on the release bearing when your foot is off the pedal, but you also want it to release completely when you put your foot in it.

 

I get the same effect by just changing the oil regularly.....I use the money I would've spent on "snake oils".........to buy gas........

Works good! And lasts a long time!!


Rick

 

I pulled the inspection plate on the oil pan and there was some very thick gray sludge build up but not really anything in the screen. I am going to pull the entire pan as well as the cover plates hopefully tomorrow. Is there any tips for cleaning out all the junk hiding behind the covers? I'm assuming I don't want to force any gunk deeper into the block right? I will also try and look at the clutch to see whats going on there. Does anyone know of a good place for individual gaskets or should I just buy an entire kit and use the ones that I need? Thanks!

 

You are correct, you want to scoop out any gunk, not just knock it down elsewhere. I've heard of using a shop vac to suck it out, but I can't imagine what that does to the shop vac hose. Keep in mind much of the sludge is highly concentrated lead compounds that can be absorbed thru the skin!!