OK here's my two cents. I have a 289 with a MII. I put the cab on before I mocked up the engine mounts. I used the stock motor mounts and ended up with the mounts behind the crossmember, not on top of it. This left me plenty of room for pan. Those washers and all look like trouble to me. That type of mount worked just fine as original equipment but Ford doesn't make them like that anymore. IMHO you could fabricate a mount which welds to the frame and meets the stock mount on the engine. That way you can mount the engine as far back and as high as you can avoiding cutting up your pan. Just a suggestion, it worked for me.

 

Hey there Doc! have you gotten anywhere with this?

 

Hey Jeff. Sorry I didn't notice your post. But here's an update. I got these new shims machined last week. And I tried them out tonight. That shim is 3/4 inch thick and has an inside hole diameter the exact same as the hole on the crossmember below it. In other words, it's an elevation of the original mounting surface. I'm gonna weld that shim in place to eliminate any lateral movement and just go with it. I have some pretty decent clearance over the rack now.

EDIT: by the way, I have a longer high grade bolt that I picked up at TSC. I just didn't run it up through the lock nut yet.

 

well dang it! im at work and the picture is restricted! i will have to see it when i get home! stupid work ethics!!!! eh who needs em!! joke

 

I edited the post and uploaded the pic from my hard drive instead of linking shutterfly like I did initially. I wonder if that makes a difference for you to be able to see it?

 

Reviving this thread to see if shims are the only option with the chassis engineering setup, or did someone verify an oil pan exists that will work? I ordered this setup last week and have a 302/AODE setup that I'll be using.

Thanks,
Matt

 

What engine are you going to use? If you get a 302 or 351 (5.8 litre

 

Dang iPhone

(5.8 liter) from a pickup or can it will most likely have a rear sump pan

 

Hey tigerfan79, Doc and I went through this before lol CE told us a bronco oil pan like this one "should" work: 1980 - 1996 Ford Bronco Ford Bronco Oil Pan 5.0L 302 ci at 1AAuto.com

Doc and I had already bought a double sump oil pan kit for a mustang so we had to use shims to compensate.

 

There's a real simple solution: Use a CSB instead of a FSB! (Sorry, I couldn't help myself).

IMHO If you bend or break that 3/8" thick motor mount you must have driven off a very high cliff. We've used 1/4" and thinner mounts in drag racing cars that do 3' wheel stands every run without failures. Torque movement at the pan is going to be minimal. 1/4" clearance is generous. First it's rotational around the crank centerline, not vertical. Second or you REALLY need to avoid those forementioned cliffs!

 

I'll tell you the part that really irritated me about the whole thing. C.E. told both reed1951 and myself that we had no choice but to go with the manual steering rack (because of this clearance issue) if we were using a small block Ford engine. So we did what they said and ordered manual racks, but we still had clearance issues. My oil pan was literally laying right on the rack. Looking back on it, we could have used a power steering rack if we knew we were going to have to shim the engine up anyway. I personally was planning on a manual rack, but I think Frank had his heart set on power steering.

 

Thanks for the responses, I think I'll give the bronco pan a try.

 

Here's a pic of the stock F150 rear sump pan on my 351w....this is over a Fatman crossmember. I used the Fatman tubular engine mounts which I had to cut down to lower the engine into place. The center of pan has an inch of clearance and the front sump is about 3/4 of an inch over the steering rack: