Clutch Pedal Bracket Broke
#1
Clutch Pedal Bracket Broke
I have a 1987 F250 2wd 460 4 speed the last couple times I drove the truck it was getting progressively harder to get from neutral to 2nd or neutral to reverse it would be **** smooth the rest of the time but with the clutch pedal on the floor, now tonight it was really hard and when i got home i felt like the pedal was going through the floor board then there was a pop and I had know clutch control I could not change gear and I had to shut it off so i could put it in reverse then start it so I could back it up but pressing the clutch did nothing. I checked out what the pop was and the aluminum bracket that the clutch and brake pedals are mounted to has a crack. Now my major question is could the bracket have already had a fracture and that was causing my weak clutch issues and how do you get that bracket out to change it.
#6
I have seen this problem twice before, but not with a cracked pedal box! my dads 84 had the infamous cracks around the clutch master cylinder, which has been well documented. my 88 on the other hand has the aluminum pedal box, on it the hole that the shaft ran through was ovaled out and required some jb-weld reshaping. however, when you go to replace/fix yours, the steel and aluminum do not interchange, I tried! but the difference was night and day. and that little bit of dragging clutch can really wear out a tranny.
as for removing it, just disconnect whats in the way, pull and twist it around while listening to soothing music... it bolts to the firewall, a few that are straight up from the floor, the steering column will need to be unbolted (but not removed) and you will need to pull the speedo cable from the speedo. you will have to disconnect the clutch and brake master cylinders, and their switches. (going off memory here)
it not hard, just time consuming. take your time and take pics as you go if need be. if you get stuck, feel free to ask questions.
as for removing it, just disconnect whats in the way, pull and twist it around while listening to soothing music... it bolts to the firewall, a few that are straight up from the floor, the steering column will need to be unbolted (but not removed) and you will need to pull the speedo cable from the speedo. you will have to disconnect the clutch and brake master cylinders, and their switches. (going off memory here)
it not hard, just time consuming. take your time and take pics as you go if need be. if you get stuck, feel free to ask questions.
#7
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#8
#9
Yes, they are the same across models, manual and auto are different though.
I have broken both the pedal support and the firewall.
Replace the plastic bushing holding the master cylinder pushrod while you are under there.
Subscribed now, if you have more questions.
I have broken both the pedal support and the firewall.
Replace the plastic bushing holding the master cylinder pushrod while you are under there.
Subscribed now, if you have more questions.
#10
btw: The pedal bracket cracking may be new to y'all, but not to me. These brackets have been notorious for cracking since day one.
#14
1980 custom f100 clutch pedal bracket crack
i have a 1980 custom f100 ,the clutch pedal bracket cracked in 4 places .
hope someone can help me find another one (aluminum)
i try all the junker but they crunch all the old truck ,i was wondering if that bracket comes in metal instead of aluminum .
1980 ford f-100 6L
hope someone can help me find another one (aluminum)
i try all the junker but they crunch all the old truck ,i was wondering if that bracket comes in metal instead of aluminum .
1980 ford f-100 6L
#15
The clutch bracket in my 1990 Diesel also broke, it's aluminum.
If you plan on keep that truck for another long time, might be worth while, while your down there, to install a fire-wall reinforcement plate.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11358654
If you plan on keep that truck for another long time, might be worth while, while your down there, to install a fire-wall reinforcement plate.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11358654
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