How much should a brake job cost?
#16
First off, Advance Auto brakes SUCK!
Second, I agree with Volvo on this one...DIY....The calipers use 2-13mm bolts, undo them, and the caliper swings way....The pads literally clip into/out of place...
The bearings, they are EASY....Just do as Volvo said, clean everything, and get a gob of grease in your palm, and pull/push the bearing through it till the grease is sqeezing around all the roller pins....
Also, clean the spindle off, and apply new grease...And CLEAN THAT hub assembly, and as before, add new grease.....Just make sure the wheel seal goes on even....
And there ya have it...a 2 beer/1-1/2 hr job...
Second, I agree with Volvo on this one...DIY....The calipers use 2-13mm bolts, undo them, and the caliper swings way....The pads literally clip into/out of place...
The bearings, they are EASY....Just do as Volvo said, clean everything, and get a gob of grease in your palm, and pull/push the bearing through it till the grease is sqeezing around all the roller pins....
Also, clean the spindle off, and apply new grease...And CLEAN THAT hub assembly, and as before, add new grease.....Just make sure the wheel seal goes on even....
And there ya have it...a 2 beer/1-1/2 hr job...
#17
#18
Other people tell me that those Duralast pads are not desirable because they make too much brake dust... What's your experience with that? I have the chrome wheels and I like to keep my truck pretty clean.
#19
Brakes are gonna be dusty....Period...Out of a set of Duralasts, and a set of Advance brand, I like the DL's better....The dust doesn't seem to be a big deal...Nothing i would consider "Excessive"....Then again, I wash the truck each week....
Btw-Some chrome polish helps...Keeps the dust/dirt etc from sticking directly to the wheel...
Btw-Some chrome polish helps...Keeps the dust/dirt etc from sticking directly to the wheel...
#20
Success!
OK, I did it. replaced the pads and rotors & packed the bearings. Here is the cost of parts and supplies for a brake job:
Brake Best Select ceramic pads $51.99
2 rotors (mine were shot) $67.98
Bearing grease $3.49
Cotter pins $2.49
Brake grease $5.69 (about)
Brake cleaner $3.19
total $134.83 plus tax
= $145.62
plus about $7 worth of gas (2 trips to O'Reilly)
Grand total about $153.00 for parts and supplies.
I must say that the mechanics earn their pay on this job. Granted, I do not have the lifts, impact wrenches and all the tools they have so their job is easier. However, it was a pretty arduous labor. I started about noon and by the time I cleaned the garage and took the truck out it was 7:30
Of course, that includes moving cars out of the garage and parking them on the street, moving the truck into the garage, researching how to do everything on line and with my (useless) Haynes Manual, driving back and forth to O'Reilley (11 miles each way in Atlanta traffic ) and cleaning up after the job. I also took pictures of the steps I took doing the job so I can post a "how to" later.
Still, I would guess that even if I had everything I needed right there, it would have probably taken me at least 1.5 ~ 2 hours to just do the job.
If money were not an issue, I would have very seriously considered having it done. However, in addition to saving some pretty good cash, I have the satisfaction of having done it and the knowledge that I did it as well as I could and used good quality parts and did not take shortcuts or did a half-assed job,
Before
----------------------------------
After
Brake Best Select ceramic pads $51.99
2 rotors (mine were shot) $67.98
Bearing grease $3.49
Cotter pins $2.49
Brake grease $5.69 (about)
Brake cleaner $3.19
total $134.83 plus tax
= $145.62
plus about $7 worth of gas (2 trips to O'Reilly)
Grand total about $153.00 for parts and supplies.
I must say that the mechanics earn their pay on this job. Granted, I do not have the lifts, impact wrenches and all the tools they have so their job is easier. However, it was a pretty arduous labor. I started about noon and by the time I cleaned the garage and took the truck out it was 7:30
Of course, that includes moving cars out of the garage and parking them on the street, moving the truck into the garage, researching how to do everything on line and with my (useless) Haynes Manual, driving back and forth to O'Reilley (11 miles each way in Atlanta traffic ) and cleaning up after the job. I also took pictures of the steps I took doing the job so I can post a "how to" later.
Still, I would guess that even if I had everything I needed right there, it would have probably taken me at least 1.5 ~ 2 hours to just do the job.
If money were not an issue, I would have very seriously considered having it done. However, in addition to saving some pretty good cash, I have the satisfaction of having done it and the knowledge that I did it as well as I could and used good quality parts and did not take shortcuts or did a half-assed job,
Before
----------------------------------
After
#21
Congratulations!
And now you are smiling knowing you did it. I like how you said you took pictures for the how to. I think I am going to do that for the front axle U-joints on my truck. Its in depth enough to show people suspension work. It helps a lot.
And I also agree with your comment on the Haynes manual. It is pretty useless for these trucks.
And now you are smiling knowing you did it. I like how you said you took pictures for the how to. I think I am going to do that for the front axle U-joints on my truck. Its in depth enough to show people suspension work. It helps a lot.
And I also agree with your comment on the Haynes manual. It is pretty useless for these trucks.
#22
Congratulations!
And now you are smiling knowing you did it. I like how you said you took pictures for the how to. I think I am going to do that for the front axle U-joints on my truck. Its in depth enough to show people suspension work. It helps a lot.
And I also agree with your comment on the Haynes manual. It is pretty useless for these trucks.
And now you are smiling knowing you did it. I like how you said you took pictures for the how to. I think I am going to do that for the front axle U-joints on my truck. Its in depth enough to show people suspension work. It helps a lot.
And I also agree with your comment on the Haynes manual. It is pretty useless for these trucks.
#23
#24
The one arm might be possible, but the cigarette part I just can't do . Yeah, it was a tougher job than replacing the clock spring or any of the other things I've done so far.
#25
Oh yeah....I forgot that I can do it in a wheel chair....WITH MY BARE HANDS.......No wrenches....
#26
#27
Maybe THIS is why I am in the Big BSer club....
#28
No my friend, you are no BSer. Just playing with words and with silly ideas. Thanks for keeping things humorous
#29
Congratulations!
And now you are smiling knowing you did it. I like how you said you took pictures for the how to. I think I am going to do that for the front axle U-joints on my truck. Its in depth enough to show people suspension work. It helps a lot.
And I also agree with your comment on the Haynes manual. It is pretty useless for these trucks.
And now you are smiling knowing you did it. I like how you said you took pictures for the how to. I think I am going to do that for the front axle U-joints on my truck. Its in depth enough to show people suspension work. It helps a lot.
And I also agree with your comment on the Haynes manual. It is pretty useless for these trucks.
How to Change Front Brakes in a 1994 Ford F150 Truck - wikiHow