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Old 11-24-2014, 05:46 PM
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How To: Power Steering Pump Replacement

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  #46  
Old 08-20-2014, 09:44 AM
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Well it looks like i need to start shopping for a pump & a gearbox ��
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  #47  
Old 08-20-2014, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nstueve View Post
To anyone reading this in the future... The reason for different fluids being used is due to the addition of friction modifiers and weight of oil. The steering box will be affected less by the lubricant that you put in it less than the pump. That being said, use the fluid recommended by the pump manufacturer that you are running on your truck. If you run the AGR pump then use the fluid that they recommend.
I just checked with A1 Cardone (reman OE pumps) and they call for using whatever OE calls for. So, this would be ATF Type F. Does this mean that any ATF Type F is acceptable (ex. Valvoline, Mobil1, Castro, etc)?
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  #48  
Old 08-21-2014, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SoCalAngler View Post
I just checked with A1 Cardone (reman OE pumps) and they call for using whatever OE calls for. So, this would be ATF Type F. Does this mean that any ATF Type F is acceptable (ex. Valvoline, Mobil1, Castro, etc)?
Yes, any type-F will be fine.
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  #49  
Old 08-21-2014, 01:15 AM
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Thanks for that great how-to… good to review even if you are an experienced wrench.
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  #50  
Old 08-21-2014, 02:04 PM
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Pump with Filter??

what are thoughts on the A1 Cardone pumps? Also, one of the C2 pumps offered for the OBS trucks is this one....
It has a built in magnetic filter (Magna-Pure Filtration). Costs about $20 more with this filter. Is it worth it? Does the filter actually work?


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  #51  
Old 08-21-2014, 02:15 PM
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My experience with Cardone C2 replacement pumps has nnot been good.
As in return directly to store because of noise and shaft wobble.
I think if you need a magnet to pick the metal filings out of your return line you have a MUCH bigger problem to address.
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  #52  
Old 08-21-2014, 02:20 PM
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I got the cardone one 3 weeks ago or so from auto zone and and running there brand power steering. (This was a very helpful thread when doing the replacement) the pump doesn't whine at all and works very well. Havent had any issues with it yet. And have driven it up hwy 17 (windy road to santa cruz) a few times and have been driving it as much as possible
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  #53  
Old 08-21-2014, 02:26 PM
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Maybe you could do the world famous Saginaw conversion?
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  #54  
Old 08-21-2014, 02:39 PM
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I'm going to stick with the C2 pump for now. There aren't many reman choices out there. Motorcraft does have a reman one for $150 which is double the price of the Cardone!

I can get all the reman ones sold by Autozone, Oreilys and the like from Rock Auto for a lot less cost. However, if a return is needed, it would be at my cost and time to get a return and a return would be 1-2 weeks. With autozone or Oreilys return is same day.
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:01 PM
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So.......

What is the best remanufactured replacement? Motorcraft has a one year warranty, Cardone and most others have lifetime.

Cardone, Motorcraft, NAPA brand (reman by BBB industries), or ????

Thanks!
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  #56  
Old 08-21-2014, 04:42 PM
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I can't say which is 'best'
I really think its just a roll of the dice.
Pretty sure Motorcraft doesn't do any of their own remans.
They are just reboxed.
I do have a Motorcraft reman alternator from Mexico and it's been great so far.
Try the Cardone from your LAP.
At least it will be easy to warranty if you need to.
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  #57  
Old 08-25-2014, 08:08 AM
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AM remans (including OEM) are 98% of the time done in Mexico some other south american country. Parts warehouses ship the cores down for rebuild b/c labor is really cheap (obviously).

I wouldn't trust a reman anything anymore. I have replaced the alternator 3 times on my 88 F250 I6 (reman from autozone). I replaced it once from an in-town auto electric comp. that rebuilds alternators and starters for about $40-$60 (unless you have something exotic like BMW). Anyhow they buy high quality rebuild parts and do it right. 75% of the time the really cheap rebuild parts are the problem, the other 25% is the cheap labor. The only reason the OEM refurbs last longer is b/c they purchase higher quality rebuild parts for the cheap labor.

If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself!

EDELMANN Part # 8896


As for the inline filter... Meh... you have a sealed hydraulic system which is pretty much bullet proof till it leaks. the only thing the filter would help is protecting other components from metal in case of catastrophic failure. Haven't heard of any major problems so I probably wouldn't mess with it, but it's an extra level of insurance so to each his own.
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  #58  
Old 08-25-2014, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
Try the Cardone from your LAP.
At least it will be easy to warranty if you need to.
Yea that's the risk... How many times you might have to replace it and how much time you'll have to invest in the future.

Keep in mind most part houses (napa, oreillys, autozone, etc) know that people on keep their cars for a couple years before trading anymore so they know their "life time" warranty's will not be used 80% of the time. So to throw a lifetime warranty on something and not have to replace it... DO you think they care about quality or bottom line profits?

O'Reillys has eaten a good share of their profits from me... Just this weekend I walked in to warranty a end link for my Rav4 and the new kid starts typing and replies "Holy Cr*$ you must be a really good customer..." when he sees the gigantic list of warranty parts he has to look through to...
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  #59  
Old 07-21-2015, 06:41 PM
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Someone tell me if this isn't the right place, I couldn't find a more appropriate section or thread for my 1989 Ford Ranger, and I'm new here...

Long story short, acquired this truck about 2 years ago, in "mostly drive-able" condition. It had been sitting for a few years before that... first thing I did was take it 2 blocks down the street for an oil change at Jiffy Lube, then drive it about an hour home. There it has sat, with periodic driving to keep things lubed and an additional oil change just for good measure probably 8 months ago or so.

A little over a year ago, my novice shade tree mechanic friend helped me replace the power steering pump (I'm no mechanic, by any standard, but I can turn a wrench)... immediately upon installing the new (Reman probably, from O'Reilly's) power steering pump, the exact same noise that it had previously was still there.

Shade tree mechanic attributed this to a "bad rack", and the truck went back to sitting with just the occasional drive of a few miles again.

I'm back at it today, realizing what an idiot the guy was, and wondering a few things here...

1. Does the 89 Ranger also need ATF Type F as was indicated in this thread? If he (and the previous owner) had used regular PS fluid, would this cause the grinding noise?
2. Is it possible the reman was bad out of the box, and that would create the exact same noise?
3. If answer to 1 and 2 is no, could this noise simply be that the system wasn't properly primed / bled, and if so, how do I do that CORRECTLY?

Here's a quick video I took, after girlfriend starts turning the wheel you can hear the "grinding" gets louder and more noticeable, but as this was taken from my tablet I wouldn't call the noises "on key" compared to what I hear in real life...

Thanks in advance!
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  #60  
Old 07-21-2015, 09:43 PM
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It possible that you could get two bad PS pumps in a row, but I think you just have air trapped in the system. Same noise my 66 with a 79 front axle was making before we FINALLY burbed all the air out of the system. I found a thread here somewhere that used a simple 20 step process - maybe someone can point you to it. Basically you fill the reservoir, lift the front wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel lock to lock 5-10 times with the motor off - fill the reservoir periodically and repeat this step a couple of times. Then you crank the truck - with the coil wire unhooked - to move the position of the pump - and then repeat the 5-10 turns again with the motor not running - again repeat a few times. Then fire the motor and run lock to lock - with wheels still off the ground. Then drop the front and turn the wheels some more. I can tell you this works and you will see lots of air purging out of the system at each step. In fact, you are likely to burb PS fluid out the top of the reservoir a few times as it releases the air. Just be patient

As for what kind of fluid in an 89 I can't be sure, but that pump looks exactly like mine and the one Ford used for many, many years. It takes Type F ATF.
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