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Old 05-23-2011, 11:42 AM
desertrat55 desertrat55 is offline
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302 distributor install

I have a 1973 bronco 302 with stroker kit. just installed a new Edelbrock Air Gap intake and Edelbrock 600 cfm carb. Changed out from a 600 Holley. Problem is the distributor re install. Prior to removal I marked the cap and body at the number 1 wire and also marked the distrib shaft to the block for refereence on re install. Only error I made was not pulling the cap to reference the rotor alignment. I believe it may be 180 degrees off because it will not fire and backfires out the carb. Also, looking at a variety of on line diagrams, most indicate that the number one position on the cap is at 1 o'clock. Mine is at 5 o'clock but correct based on the position of the hold down clamps. If I am out of time by 180 degrees, can I remove the distrib. and still bump the motor, using a remote starter to bring it into alignment without any issues.

Any input would be appricated.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:04 PM
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gfw1985 gfw1985 is offline
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I have never seen a cap you could put on with the #1 marking on cap at five o-clock. Five 0-clock should be close to where the vacuum canister is pointing. The number really means nothing, just a ref. Best thing to do is bring #1 to TDC on compression stroke and reinstall distributor so rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire, then follow your timing order counterclockwise around the cap with the plug wires. Orientate the vacuum can where you have room to move it without hitting anything.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:19 PM
desertrat55 desertrat55 is offline
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Correct, the vac port is at roughly 5 o'clock and my cap marking for number one spark wire, prior to pulling the distrib out, is one terminal "clockwise", of vac port. Then going counter clockwise through the sequence 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. So I guess it really does not matter how I put the cap back on and in what position as long as the rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal.
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Old 05-24-2011, 08:27 PM
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Do you have a simple compression gauge? Try to track one down.... I would remove all the plugs. Install the compression gauge on the #1 plug hole..... and use the big 2' ratchet on the balancer bolt and spin the engine around until you see the timing marks lining up with the pointer and the compression gauge showing compression....
If you dont have the gauge you can have a friend use a finger in the plug hole to feel for compression....the set the timing about 10 before TDC and drop in the distributor pointing at the #1 lug...then the engine should fire over no problem.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:26 PM
benshere benshere is offline
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installing dizzy

You can do all sorts of things to make sure that the #1 piston is actually up on the compression stroke and not 180 deg out. It can be pointing to # 1 on the intake stroke and would not fire or would backfire.

There numerous ways to verify that it is on the compression stroke, finger over plug hole etc. which are all good ways to check.

I have done so many dist pulls on fords (will pull the dizzy to replace/adjust springs and weights etc.) that I have found a simpler way--for me anyway!

When you put in the dizzy at first, with the pointer on the TDC--or slightly advanced, and the rotor on #1, dont worry about which stroke its on. If it is getting fuel and spark, then it should fire up and run. If it dosnt and sounds funny, you know you are 180 deg out. Dont worry about trying to get back to the TDC. Pull the cap and which ever cylinder the rotor is pointing to, pick the one directly across the cap from it and mark something on the manifold or close to orient the dizzy then turn the rotor and shaft until it lines up with the opposite wire and set the dizzy back down. You will have to learn where to start because of the gear bevels on the dist gear to make it wind up correct when seated. It will not just drop straight down and in. It will,more than likely, not line up with the oil pump shaft, but just tap the starter lightly until it drops all the way down.

If it dosnt start there either, you have some other problem. After it starts, you can do the timing thing. It is much easier for me than trying to pull plugs or valve covers. Remember you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right on the first try. If not right, its not nearly as much trouble! Sorry if this is long-winded
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:29 PM
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That is an awesome trick.... I know a lot.... But never would have figured that out on my own.... Thanks
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:27 AM
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So... after u have found TDC and pointer is facing #1 cylinder (on compression stroke) and distributor is fully seated, u can put cap on and it doesnt matter where the plug wire goes on cap, as long as it goes to #1 cylinder? I found TDC, put cap on, turned engine over until I got oil pressure, and now I dont know where the #1 plug wire goes on the cap. Can someone help please?
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Old 03-17-2012, 03:11 PM
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Nevermind👌
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:28 PM
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Nevermind��

bronco success?
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'70 LUEB 1/2 cab, '77 frame ie: D44, PS, trapezoidal BB 9"; w/411; "T" D20/PTO; 250cid mid-swap; 2"SL; 4 discs; 3.03/3 sp Hurst. Seeking: 240/300 1v low rise Carb. or Carter RBS, hydraulic Gear Motor for koenig &/or zf ptos, '2 wd' zf E-Brake, 3'X10" Auger.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:05 PM
texasft texasft is offline
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Yes, purring like a lion until I get the mufflers put on👍👍
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:53 PM
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excellent! any pic?
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Chad
'70 LUEB 1/2 cab, '77 frame ie: D44, PS, trapezoidal BB 9"; w/411; "T" D20/PTO; 250cid mid-swap; 2"SL; 4 discs; 3.03/3 sp Hurst. Seeking: 240/300 1v low rise Carb. or Carter RBS, hydraulic Gear Motor for koenig &/or zf ptos, '2 wd' zf E-Brake, 3'X10" Auger.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:53 PM
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