Truck has been fine until 2 days ago. Battery is new as of 01/11. Went out to go to work and key fob didn't work. Figured it was one of those "hiccups" so used the key to get in.

My trailer brake controller (Tekonsha Prodigy) was blinking "n.c." and I heard a ticking from behind the gauge cluster similar to how a turn signal flasher would sound when a bulb is out, only much quieter.

I charged the battery and took it to the shop to get the charging system checked. On two different machines everything checked out. Got back to work and parked it. Came back out about 30 mins later and as I walked up to it, I noticed the dome lights and the stereo were on. (Keys were in my hand!) Definitely a WTF moment. As soon as I opened the door, the stereo went off. Dome lights went off when I closed the door. I ran a few errands for work and had no other "symptoms" the rest of the day.

I checked the truck last night before I went to bed to make sure everything was off and when I came out this morning, the battery was dead again.

I've been searching FTE and a few other sites all morning for any similar issues and the only thing I've found is that the GEM might not be going to "sleep" properly - MAYBE.

Anyone had anything similar or have any ideas how the hell to even begin to troubleshoot this?

 

Maybe the Accessory Delay relay? I have had an electrical problem in the past and no one could find it minus the Ford dealer. They have equipment that can trace every circuit on the truck.

 

It's "on the scope" as I type. Ran a charge on it all day today at work, then drove to the shop where they hooked it up to some gizmo to see what's up. I didn't feel like messing with it. I hope to have an answer sometime tomorrow. I'll probably do the work myself tho. No sense in paying $65/hour labor when I work for beer.

 

The best trick I know is to unhook the negative battery cable(s) and use a test light between the negative post on the battery and the cable you just disconnected from it. Any current flowing from the battery draining it will light the test light, you then can remove fuses or disconnect electrical componets until the light goes out narrowing down the problem. Be aware that with the door open during testing the dome light will need to be disconnected, and the radio and computer memory will be enough to keep the test light dimly lit. 10 to 50 miliamps would be considered normal.

 

My 07 dually diesel was dying if I let it set for a few days without starting. I took it to Advance Auto first and they determined the driver's side battery was bad. I next took it to the local Ford dealership and they confirmed plus found it had a crack in it. The other battery was fine. Even though it's recommended to change both batteries at same time I only replaced the one since the other checked good. The dealership even concurred I only needed to change the one. Seems to have fixed my problem. By the way, both Advance and Ford dealership checked my charging circuit (battery) for free. Good luck, Roy

 

I don't know exactly what they check on the charging system, but I had a bad alternator that was draining my battery on an older f150. It would charge fine, so I didn't suspect it - until it caught fire (just as I pulled into my house, fortunately).

I've also had a windshield leak that dripped on to the GEM, and would make the blower run.

Hope you find it.
Todd

 

I checked for leaks before I hauled it off to the shop. Everything under the dash, down by the sill plates etc is bone dry. No discoloration in the fuse panel.

I'm still leaning towards the GEM since the stereo came on by itself and my trailer brake controller was blinking like a trailer was hooked up and there was a short in the brake wiring.

Playing phone tag with the shop this morning....

 

Shop *thinks* it's the "instrument cluster microprocessor" and has a call in to Ford to verify (and I guess to see if they can even get the part). Looking online I see a new cluster is pretty pricey. I've found refurbs for everything up to 2001, but nothing for a 2002...

 

Still no clue as to exactly what's wrong. I've got the truck back. Shop replaced the battery under warranty. Doing some more digging and looking at a high-level wiring diagram, looks like it could possibly be the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) which would be an infinitely easier fix since it can be accessed by popping the radio out...

I hate to just shotgun parts in and out without knowing for sure.

New instrument cluster is going to run me a tick over $500 once it's all said and done (with me doing the work) if that's what the problem is. Man I hate electrical problems....

 

Ok, now I'm really confused. Checked the draw from the battery with everything shut down. *MAYBE* 10ma.. Checked with both a digital and analog gauge. For giggles, I left the battery connected overnight (roughly 13 hours) and just went outside to see if it'd start. Started right up.

Possible the 4 month old battery gave out? Interesting in that it just happened all of a sudden. Ideas/Thoughts?

 

ok, back to being confused. Truck has had no problems at all since last Friday when I picked it up at the shop. Been starting right up each time I try. No "odd" behavior - until this morning.

Started right up, drove kids to school stopped for gas, drove to work. Shut the truck down, pulled the key, hit the door lock button like I always do.. Door locked and then unlocked 2 seconds later. WTF? Tried again. Same deal. Used the key FOB, doors stayed locked. Unlocked 'em and tried the button again. 2 secs later, doors unlock.

Thought maybe it's the door switch so I locked the doors with the remote, closed the door, unlocked with the remote and tried again. Same 2 second lock/unlock cycle. Dome lights *did* go out when I closed the door....

Now I'm wondering if it's the VSM behind the stereo.... Man I hate electrical problems...