We bought one from auction 2000 F350 4wd XL reg cab long bed. Automatic.

We found it have tons new parts on engine.

New glow plug relay
cps
alternator
batteries but they wrong 500 CCA
fuel filter

Guy say they got to ford dealer and decided not pay. They say bad fuel pump and glow plugs.

I test by remove fuel filter and turn on key. It work but we see tons bubble.

Gas tank is E so we will refill with 5 or 10 gallons.

Oil is low we will refill.

I read couple threads about not start.
When I crank there tachometer it not ever move.
Engine light is ON.
WTS come on for 10-12 sec but try double cycle NOTHING come on.
Oil pressure gauge is good.

What kind scanner I need to able see engine info? I only have genraic usb scanner but what software that able work?

Dan

 

if you are seeing bubbles in the fuel then chances are you have a connection between the tank and the fuel pump all though it may also be because you are low on fuel.
Put that 5 to 10 gallons in the tank and see if it still gives you bubbles. If it does you may need to pull the tank and mod it.

As for the no start, it sounds like your CPS isn't working. Your tach should be moving a little bit during cranking.

Try also pulling the top bolt on the HPOP and make sure it has oil in it.

 

Forgot to statement. There water get inside cab it fill glovebox and I read someone say about GEM module won't let engine run because water.

Is Hpop's bolt allen

CPS on that is BRAND NEW I can see shine gold bracket.

But it was crank really slow not crank fast.

 

What is your voltage during crank? You need at least 10.5 to get the injectors to fire during crank. You also need almost 200 rpm.

 

NO volt mulit tester with me unforgivably but will bring tomorrow.

I hoping it not expensive to fix.

 

Test that voltage during crank and get back to us.

 

Where can I get new hpop allen bolt they look strip but want to be safety to have new one.


We will recharge batteries with cable unhook to help charge fully better.


Do you think plug heater block will help? We been in 40oF-55oF.

Dan

 

Heating the block will help though at that temp is not needed but it is worth a shot to heat it anyhow just to make it easier to start.
As for the bolt it more than likely is a ford part but I would call Clay at RiffRaff Diesel Performance and see if he has one you can get.
As for charging the batteries, it is a good idea though i would still get a voltmeter and double check your startup voltage.

 

I think it's a #4 o-ring boss fitting on top of the res. I replaced the ones on the oil res and fuel bowl assembly. Now all it takes is a 9/16 wrench. I pocked mine up at a hydraulic line and fitting store! Good luck!

 

I think it's a #4 o-ring boss fitting on top of the res. I replaced the ones on the oil res and fuel bowl assembly. Now all it takes is a 9/16 wrench. I picked mine up at a hydraulic line and fitting store! Good luck!

 

Here is a link for the plug...

Riffraff Diesel: Pressure Port/ HPOP Reservoir Fill Plug

 

sounds like the guys have you on the right track

 

YEAH I was surprised how many helpful here. I thought I maybe not get answer like other threads I did.


I told my Dad about that he not diesel expert on this one but he work 6.7L at Ford lab tech.

He ask me question about color on CPS Grey and black. I can't see what color but I told him the metal bracket is gold and he ask you sure it not silver color.


Which color CPS that was bad design? black ? Where can I get OEM one that is reliable. Keep in mind it be 280 miles up deer camp and don't want broke down there.

 

The grey one has contribution issue but is the most reliable. The black one has the best performance but has a higher failure rate. Most people run the black due to it working the best but keep a grey or another black in the glove box in case of failure so that they aren't left stranded. It is a good idea to keep one in the glove box anyhow just in case no matter the color of the CPS.

 

Is it just me or do you seem to buy a lot of vehicles? Do you fix them and sell them?

Sounds like someone has just been throwing parts at it. Hopefully they used decent parts and you don't have some bad new parts.

You shouldn't test it this way. There is a spring inside the stand pipe in the fuel bowl. Having the filter installed and the lid screwed on opens the stand pipe and increases fuel flow. For a simple test, put the filter in and lid on and open the drain valve (yellow lever behind the fuel bowl takes 1/4 turn clockwise) with the key on. A working fuel pump will give you a pressurized stream as opposed to a trickle from the bowl just draining.

Oil is VERY important in these engines since the fuel injectors fire off of engine oil. I'd suggest you change the oil and filter to start fresh.

Where did your new CPS come from? No movement on the tach might be a sign of a bad CPS (or the wiring).

So if you double cycle the WTS light won't come on the second time? That could be a hint as to your problem.

The GEM is on the driver side behind the fuse panel. If the glove box is full, check to make sure it's not a leaking heater core. If it's a leaking windshield, go ahead and remove the fuse panel under the steering wheel and look for any signs of moisture there as well.

We've seen CPS from the parts stores be bad out of the box. It's better off to use only a Ford or International CPS. And if it's 280 miles to camp, buy a spare and throw it in the glove box. (after you fix the leak)

There is a minimum RPM required to start. Maybe consider getting the starter tested.

It won't hurt. I'd plug it in since it might help.

This is the friendly corner of FTE. We do our best to help out here. I've seen you post before up in the Super Duty section. You're deaf, right? Not that it really matters, just trying to remember who's who for the folks that have been around for a few years.