my ? is, is the cv joint style driveshaft stronger than the regular "one peice" driveshaft?

 

I don't know about stronger but they say it is smoother to drive with.

 

definitely smoother, less vibration with hubs locked,

 

Sounds like I need to get the joints replaced in my cardian jointed front shaft. Is there a special yoke needed for the transfer case?

 

well i was wondering about stregnth wise. i tend to use my truck only for 4wheeling purposes. blew out my drive shaft and have a chance to convert to this type. but i've been told that they're smoother, but not as strong for beating on it. just getting peoples 2cents. thanks though for replys guys

 

Well it depends on the amount if lift/ angle on the driveshaft whether or not it's stronger. If you have say a Rear driveshaft of 12 degrees with a 2 u joint shaft should be ok. If you have big lift and have like 20 degrees then it definitely is stronger as the 2 top joints now only run at 10 degrees each and the rear one on the diff side must run at zero to work properly. Ideally you actually point the diff one done 1.5 degrees at rest so when driving it allows it to rotate up that 1.5 degrees to now be inline. So many people don't explain this properly and there is a need for a cv in some cases but not all..

I found a good used 1 ton 1350 cv shaft at a wrecker from the front of a 2000 ish superduty for $100. It had to be cut down to length but the custom cv shaft I got on my truck now ran me $300 alone for the new 1350 cv with joints then there was the other parts..
Put a bubble angle finder on your rear shaft and report back..

 

Read this thread

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ive-shaft.html

I posted links in there but spend an hour reading them and you'll understand!!!
I posted on page 2

 

well i only have a 6inch lift and felt the drive shaft was long enough. not only did it screw my driveshaft up when it fell out going 60, it alost sheared half my yoke off the tcase. so, if i go with this cv shaft, i'll have to get the yoke to use with it(from what i understand). the guy wants 75$ for the shaft, and 55 for a yoke. i'm going to start reading the link you posted for me

 

Don't buy it if it's 1330 small ujoints!!!
Get a 1350 one. Much stronger.
You will have to order a new t case yoke with a mounting flange

 

Heres mine

 

That's nasty!!.....1350. I want one front and rear! How much do those transfer yokes go for each?

 

I think the flange yoke was over $100.

This 1350 cv I got my shop to put together with 2 sealed spicer 1350 joints. Around $300.
Sealed are stronger and the top ones don't need to be flushed with grease as much because it's out of the muck. Grease passages make it weaker. The bottom joint on diff though is a greasable spicer 1350 but as it runs on no angle it's still strong