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Old 05-17-2011, 01:53 PM
mullin76 mullin76 is offline
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2003 Ford Ranger 3.0 Liter wont start

I have changed crank sensor, cam sensor. I have fuel to all cylinders, good compression, and spark. It will not run. Any ideas?
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:31 PM
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hvacguy hvacguy is offline
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Do you have a Check Engine Light or any codes?
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:53 PM
homelessrdp homelessrdp is offline
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do you have enough fuel
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:43 AM
tomw tomw is offline
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Squirt some fuel or WD40 into the intake manifold. Crank the engine. If it coughs and tries to fire, you have a fuel problem. If it does nothing, you have a spark problem, or a timing problem. The necessaries are fuel, air and spark. Did you time the cam position sensor using the 'tool' when you replaced it? For that matter, why did you replace it?
Did you have any indications of problems before it failed to start? Are the wires to the crankshaft and camshaft sensors in good shape? Tightly connected? Is the coil pack held in place by all bolts?
tom
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:45 AM
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It is a 2003 model so don't forget to start with the simple things. Have you looked at the fuel pump inertia switch in the passenger floorboard? I have had to replace 3 of them in the 2003 models we have here. Sometime the simplest things cause the most trouble. Good luck.
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:33 AM
03 Maz B23 03 Maz B23 is offline
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Have you tried using your spare key to start it? Maybe your anti theft system isn't reading the chip in your present key.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomw View Post
Squirt some fuel or WD40 into the intake manifold. Crank the engine. If it coughs and tries to fire, you have a fuel problem. If it does nothing, you have a spark problem, or a timing problem. The necessaries are fuel, air and spark. Did you time the cam position sensor using the 'tool' when you replaced it? For that matter, why did you replace it?
Did you have any indications of problems before it failed to start? Are the wires to the crankshaft and camshaft sensors in good shape? Tightly connected? Is the coil pack held in place by all bolts?
tom
Yep he is dead on. You can pick a noid light set cheep. I would suggest getting a cheep set and see if you have injector pulse.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:23 PM
mullin76 mullin76 is offline
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dont have any codes
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:26 PM
mullin76 mullin76 is offline
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I have injector pulse,58psi fuel pressure,
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:36 PM
mullin76 mullin76 is offline
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engine tries to fire, i didnt have cam synchronizer out,should I take it out and check for damage on lower half and reinstll with tool
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:39 PM
mullin76 mullin76 is offline
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fuel pump runs with around 58psi of pressure
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:49 PM
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Quote mullin76:"I have changed crank sensor, cam sensor."

Quote Later:"engine tries to fire, i didnt have cam synchronizer out,should I take it out ".

You must have taken it out to change it. Or you didn't.

I am confused.

If it was removed, and replaced with another, was it correctly set using the tool or other timing mechanism?

If it was not removed, is it functional? I thought the cam position sensor was to get the SEFI system synched to each cylinder so the injector pulsed when the intake valve was preparing to open, or had just opened. If that is the case, the engine would run, but not as well.
If the crank position sensor was removed and re-installed, I would want to be sure that it was installed properly. I don't know if there is a specific clearance between the sensor and the toothed wheel, or it is held properly by the front cover or bracket.

If you squirt fuel or WD40 into the intake manifold, the engine should fire off and rotate before stopping. It should run for a few seconds, at least I would expect that. Not just a pop here and there, but actually fire off.
tom
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:30 PM
mullin76 mullin76 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomw View Post
Quote mullin76:"I have changed crank sensor, cam sensor."

Quote Later:"engine tries to fire, i didnt have cam synchronizer out,should I take it out ".

You must have taken it out to change it. Or you didn't.

I am confused.

If it was removed, and replaced with another, was it correctly set using the tool or other timing mechanism?

If it was not removed, is it functional? I thought the cam position sensor was to get the SEFI system synched to each cylinder so the injector pulsed when the intake valve was preparing to open, or had just opened. If that is the case, the engine would run, but not as well.
If the crank position sensor was removed and re-installed, I would want to be sure that it was installed properly. I don't know if there is a specific clearance between the sensor and the toothed wheel, or it is held properly by the front cover or bracket.

If you squirt fuel or WD40 into the intake manifold, the engine should fire off and rotate before stopping. It should run for a few seconds, at least I would expect that. Not just a pop here and there, but actually fire off.
tom
Tom,
Ok,the Cam sensor is mounted on top of the synchronizer with two mounting screws, that is why I didnt remove the cam syncronizer.I am not able to make engine run by squirting fuel into the engine intake. Looking at the syncronizer it appears to be functional because it is rotating. It is held properly by the bracket. At this point all it wants to do is pop. The problem started with a burnt exhaust valve on #3 cylinder. Removed head and had them reconditioned. Re-installed heads, the engine started with no trouble. I let it run for approximately for 10 minutes, shut it off, topped of antifreeze,went to restart and that is when I incurred no start condition. Thanks, Rick
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:31 AM
tomw tomw is offline
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I don't know the difference between the cam sensor and the cam synchronizer, so will just give my final suggestion from general experience.
Start from scratch. Set the engine at TDC on the #1 compression stroke. Make sure the ignition timing sensor(s) are aligned, be they cam, crank or anything else. Make sure the fuel timing sensor(s) are aligned. I think all this is done static, with the engine stopped. If all are installed, connected and aligned properly, the injectors should inject and the ignition should fire at the right time.
It worked once, and ran, so you are not that far off. Something moved while it was running, or something failed. I am assuming that it was not overheated during the 10 minute run, and you were just making sure the radiator was full and the overflow topped off.
Last, is it possible you are low on fuel, or the fuel filter got plugged or the fuel is old and hard to ignite? I would at least check the pressure and volume of the fuel pump if it didn't run after setting the timed components as above.
tom
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:31 AM
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