1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

oil pan gasket on a 97

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Old 05-15-2011, 08:50 PM
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oil pan gasket on a 97

hey guys i have a 97 f250 4x4 automatic my local shop that i trust tells me the only way to drop the pan is to pull the motor wondering if its true or can i drop it without pulln the motor
 
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:11 PM
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That is true, ford made a jig that you can lift the motor but I doubt a local shop has one, the pans on thesethongs are no joke, pull the motor and do some paint while it's out
 
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:14 PM
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That is true, ford made a jig that you can lift the motor but I doubt a local shop has one, the pans on these things are no joke, pull the motor and do some paint while it's out
The cross member is what really messes with these trucks, it's too close to the pan to drop it down. You can cut the cross member out and reweled it but I'd personally rather pull the motor.
 
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:18 PM
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dam iPhone LOL disregard first comment
 
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:18 PM
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thanks shop wants 600 just to pull it and 200 to replace oil pan and gasket
dad case of beer father and son time priceless lol
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:16 AM
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It can be done w/o removing the engine. I cut the cross member out instead. I have 5 oil pan replacements under my belt now & can do it in less than 5 hours. The first one took 8-9 hours.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...il-pan-qs.html
 
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Old 05-18-2011, 01:57 AM
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Will cutting the cross member, and welding it back, pretty also much work for a 1999 E350?

Hit something to punch a hole in the pan, so not sure if pan will be salvageable.

Is stock Ford or after market (Kragen, Autozone) the way to go?
 
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:57 AM
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I have not done a van but I can't see why it wouldn't work if I'm remembering the van x-memeber location & function correctly.....
 
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:32 AM
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Not true, unbolt motor jack up as high as possible keeping an eye on turbo/firewall drop pan and unbolt oil pick up and jocky around pan it will come out,,,,,big pain in **** local shop did this job for me,,,,,,,,previously I pulled the motor all the way out and that too is a pia its a no win situation
 
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:25 PM
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I thought It was hard to get the pan sealed with
The engine in the truck
 
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Old 05-18-2011, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
I have not done a van but I can't see why it wouldn't work if I'm remembering the van x-memeber location & function correctly.....
Thanks Cuda. Thinking will have to do this on Memorial Day weekend.

On a replacement pan, would you recommend an original Ford pan, or aftermarket Kragen/Autozone? Prices I am getting on a used Ford pan are $125, while a new aftermarket is $99. But also have read that they fit different. Budget is tight, so is repairing (pounding out and weld/braze) the pan reasonable?

Any things I should be watching for that might turn easy into crazy difficult? It is a 2WD, if that makes a difference.
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:25 AM
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The aftermarket pans I've installed are holding up but it's only been a year or so on the oldest one. The pan doesn't have a gasket, RTV only, so straightening the old one may not work. I guess it depends on your skills and if the old pan is rusting through in other areas.

Getting the block clean is the hardest part since the special sealant is like gorilla glue and should be used on the new pan. Use Motorcraft TA-31 or F5TZ-19G204-AB, it comes in 5oz caulking gun tubes. It's expensive but worth it IMO. Dig out the old sealant from the corners of the block where it meets with the front cover and rear main bearing areas. Use extra in these areas when installing the new pan but so much that it can chunk off inside the pan. If this happens the engine may be starved for oil.

The dipstick fitting is another source for a leak. You might need a new one, the o'ring is definitely needed, use the sealant there too.
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:25 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
The aftermarket pans I've installed are holding up but it's only been a year or so on the oldest one. The pan doesn't have a gasket, RTV only, so straightening the old one may not work. I guess it depends on your skills and if the old pan is rusting through in other areas.

Getting the block clean is the hardest part since the special sealant is like gorilla glue and should be used on the new pan. Use Motorcraft TA-31 or F5TZ-19G204-AB, it comes in 5oz caulking gun tubes. It's expensive but worth it IMO. Dig out the old sealant from the corners of the block where it meets with the front cover and rear main bearing areas. Use extra in these areas when installing the new pan but so much that it can chunk off inside the pan. If this happens the engine may be starved for oil.

The dipstick fitting is another source for a leak. You might need a new one, the o'ring is definitely needed, use the sealant there too.
Sorry to hijack this, but Jim, can you explain why the engine may be starved for oil? (I have read this before but I don understand why)
 
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:14 PM
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The excessive RTV breaks off then drops inside the pan. This can completely block the oil to the pick-p tube...... if there is enough of it.
Even a small amount will reduce oil flow.

Oh, I forgot to add above. RTV will cause the engine oil to foam-up. We all know what foaming oil does to our HEUI injectors....not good.
An additive should be used in the oil after the replacing the pan. It's not needed for any oil changes afterwards the installation.
I use this stuff: Navistar P/N CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888
 
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:01 AM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
The excessive RTV breaks off then drops inside the pan. This can completely block the oil to the pick-p tube...... if there is enough of it.
Even a small amount will reduce oil flow.

Oh, I forgot to add above. RTV will cause the engine oil to foam-up. We all know what foaming oil does to our HEUI injectors....not good.
An additive should be used in the oil after the replacing the pan. It's not needed for any oil changes afterwards the installation.
I use this stuff: Navistar P/N CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888
Every day you learn something new. Thanks Jim, now I undersand that, and I have never hear something about the necessity to add the additive, even so that I have heard about the foam-up.

I tried to rep you but Im in jail
 
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