oil pan gasket on a 97
#1
#3
That is true, ford made a jig that you can lift the motor but I doubt a local shop has one, the pans on these things are no joke, pull the motor and do some paint while it's out
The cross member is what really messes with these trucks, it's too close to the pan to drop it down. You can cut the cross member out and reweled it but I'd personally rather pull the motor.
The cross member is what really messes with these trucks, it's too close to the pan to drop it down. You can cut the cross member out and reweled it but I'd personally rather pull the motor.
#6
It can be done w/o removing the engine. I cut the cross member out instead. I have 5 oil pan replacements under my belt now & can do it in less than 5 hours. The first one took 8-9 hours.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...il-pan-qs.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...il-pan-qs.html
#7
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#9
Not true, unbolt motor jack up as high as possible keeping an eye on turbo/firewall drop pan and unbolt oil pick up and jocky around pan it will come out,,,,,big pain in **** local shop did this job for me,,,,,,,,previously I pulled the motor all the way out and that too is a pia its a no win situation
#11
On a replacement pan, would you recommend an original Ford pan, or aftermarket Kragen/Autozone? Prices I am getting on a used Ford pan are $125, while a new aftermarket is $99. But also have read that they fit different. Budget is tight, so is repairing (pounding out and weld/braze) the pan reasonable?
Any things I should be watching for that might turn easy into crazy difficult? It is a 2WD, if that makes a difference.
#12
The aftermarket pans I've installed are holding up but it's only been a year or so on the oldest one. The pan doesn't have a gasket, RTV only, so straightening the old one may not work. I guess it depends on your skills and if the old pan is rusting through in other areas.
Getting the block clean is the hardest part since the special sealant is like gorilla glue and should be used on the new pan. Use Motorcraft TA-31 or F5TZ-19G204-AB, it comes in 5oz caulking gun tubes. It's expensive but worth it IMO. Dig out the old sealant from the corners of the block where it meets with the front cover and rear main bearing areas. Use extra in these areas when installing the new pan but so much that it can chunk off inside the pan. If this happens the engine may be starved for oil.
The dipstick fitting is another source for a leak. You might need a new one, the o'ring is definitely needed, use the sealant there too.
Getting the block clean is the hardest part since the special sealant is like gorilla glue and should be used on the new pan. Use Motorcraft TA-31 or F5TZ-19G204-AB, it comes in 5oz caulking gun tubes. It's expensive but worth it IMO. Dig out the old sealant from the corners of the block where it meets with the front cover and rear main bearing areas. Use extra in these areas when installing the new pan but so much that it can chunk off inside the pan. If this happens the engine may be starved for oil.
The dipstick fitting is another source for a leak. You might need a new one, the o'ring is definitely needed, use the sealant there too.
#13
The aftermarket pans I've installed are holding up but it's only been a year or so on the oldest one. The pan doesn't have a gasket, RTV only, so straightening the old one may not work. I guess it depends on your skills and if the old pan is rusting through in other areas.
Getting the block clean is the hardest part since the special sealant is like gorilla glue and should be used on the new pan. Use Motorcraft TA-31 or F5TZ-19G204-AB, it comes in 5oz caulking gun tubes. It's expensive but worth it IMO. Dig out the old sealant from the corners of the block where it meets with the front cover and rear main bearing areas. Use extra in these areas when installing the new pan but so much that it can chunk off inside the pan. If this happens the engine may be starved for oil.
The dipstick fitting is another source for a leak. You might need a new one, the o'ring is definitely needed, use the sealant there too.
Getting the block clean is the hardest part since the special sealant is like gorilla glue and should be used on the new pan. Use Motorcraft TA-31 or F5TZ-19G204-AB, it comes in 5oz caulking gun tubes. It's expensive but worth it IMO. Dig out the old sealant from the corners of the block where it meets with the front cover and rear main bearing areas. Use extra in these areas when installing the new pan but so much that it can chunk off inside the pan. If this happens the engine may be starved for oil.
The dipstick fitting is another source for a leak. You might need a new one, the o'ring is definitely needed, use the sealant there too.
#14
The excessive RTV breaks off then drops inside the pan. This can completely block the oil to the pick-p tube...... if there is enough of it.
Even a small amount will reduce oil flow.
Oh, I forgot to add above. RTV will cause the engine oil to foam-up. We all know what foaming oil does to our HEUI injectors....not good.
An additive should be used in the oil after the replacing the pan. It's not needed for any oil changes afterwards the installation.
I use this stuff: Navistar P/N CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888
Even a small amount will reduce oil flow.
Oh, I forgot to add above. RTV will cause the engine oil to foam-up. We all know what foaming oil does to our HEUI injectors....not good.
An additive should be used in the oil after the replacing the pan. It's not needed for any oil changes afterwards the installation.
I use this stuff: Navistar P/N CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888
#15
The excessive RTV breaks off then drops inside the pan. This can completely block the oil to the pick-p tube...... if there is enough of it.
Even a small amount will reduce oil flow.
Oh, I forgot to add above. RTV will cause the engine oil to foam-up. We all know what foaming oil does to our HEUI injectors....not good.
An additive should be used in the oil after the replacing the pan. It's not needed for any oil changes afterwards the installation.
I use this stuff: Navistar P/N CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888
Even a small amount will reduce oil flow.
Oh, I forgot to add above. RTV will cause the engine oil to foam-up. We all know what foaming oil does to our HEUI injectors....not good.
An additive should be used in the oil after the replacing the pan. It's not needed for any oil changes afterwards the installation.
I use this stuff: Navistar P/N CH1824392 or Lubrizol 888
I tried to rep you but Im in jail
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