how do i remove window motor passeger side 1993 f-150? motor runs but window does not move. thanks

 

You can remove it without taking out the window regulator. There are 3 10mm bolts that attach the motor to the regulator. 2 of those are obscured by the door frame, but there are dimples in the door frame where the bolts are. You drill those out with a 1/2"drill and then you can get a socket on all 3 bolts. Have the window rolled up when you do this, then remove the 3 bolts and reach in on the backside of the regulator and remove the motor.

 

Once removed. Take the c-clip off the gear, remove the two screws and lift out the gear and outer covering plate. Once you lift out...yellow pellets will fall all over the table. Clean everything out good, and go buy six 7/16" "wrench size" nuts. You will notice the metal gear has three flat sides and the plastic piece inside the motor is shaped like a triangle. Stack two of the 7/16" nuts on top of each other in each corner of the triangle as you lower the metal gear back into the assembly. All three of the flat sides of the metal gear will face each corner of the triangle where you have the nuts installed and will engage the nuts with triangle. It should slide in nice and snug, if not...one of your nuts has moved slightly. Just keep working with it...it's super easy. Once you get the nuts and the metal gear inserted flush, reinstall the metal plate, the two screws and c clip and you are good to go until the motor fails. You will never have the problem again. Something like a 10 cent fix.

P.S. I have pics of the entire process and was going to do a write up but I've been busy. Let me know if run into an issue and I can post the pics.

 

Also of note...when you roll up window.....tape it at the top to keep it from falling down once you remove the motor. You can work the motor out of the opening, but you may want to remove the door speaker to make it a little easier to reach in there, and you can just bring through the speaker opening.

 

Sorry to steal post, but 73FOMO could you post pics cause I have the same problem. Thanks.

 

FYI, you can get replacement torque pins at Autozone, Oreillys, etc for around $4. They actually serve two purposes. One to shear if needed is something binds up, and Two, to cushion the motor/gear assembly when the window goes all the way up or down, rather than putting all the load on the gears. Also, I prefer to pull the whole regulator assembly out and clean and regrease it if I have to change the pins on one. You will find that it works much better when the whole assembly is cleaned and new grease on the moving parts. Its not hard to do either. Tape the window up (if you can, if its stuck down, just take caution not to let it drop when you drill the last rivet out!) Take a punch and knock out the center of the rivets that hold the regulator assembly to the door panel, then take a 1/2" drill and slowly drill the rivet head until it pops off. You will have to also remove one of the rivets on the armrest support. Once you have it out, clean it good with brake cleaner, make sure all the gears have new grease on them, also check the pivot to make sure its free and moving. Work some grease onto it, and lay some white lithium grease in the window track at the bottom of the glass. Putting it back together is just the reverse of taking it apart, but instead of rivets, use short 1/4" (7/16 head) bolts 1/2" long with IIRC with some nuts and lockwashers. You will have to play with the window position up and down a bit to get them all in, but once done its worth it. If you ever need to service again you dont have to drill rivets, and with the cleaned parts and new grease you will find the window goes up and down like it did when the factory built it.

 

thanks for info. removed motor it good. must be regulator?

 

did you take the motor apart as described in post #3 and check to see if the cushions are broken?

 

once I learned to drill out the rivets the fix was a breeze... and the hex nuts and bolts worked perfectly... was a nice thing to again have working windows!

 

I've ran across a few where the brushes in the motor were wore slam out. Also, the hex nuts in the drive didn't work at all for me, window jerked and wouldn't seal off right, just get the pins and do it right.

 

i just did this last weekend. guilty of using 1/4"-20 nuts in place of the nylon disks. if i'd known you can get the nylon ones pretty much anywhere i'd have gone that route...

 

Sometimes they work fine, mine didnt. this weekend I replaced my dads then found the center pin broken out of the gear housing, swapped the guts into another housing.