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Excursion - King of SUVs 2000 - 2005 Ford Excursion

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  #1  
Old 05-12-2011, 04:35 PM
95fordXL 95fordXL is offline
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2002 ford excursion spark plug change

I'm getting ready to do a change on my friends 2002 excursion and it has the V10 in it and I was just wondering if you all had any tips on doing it cause i'm sure the very back to will be a pita
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:14 PM
tdappleman tdappleman is offline
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The rear 2 plugs on the passenger side are awful. Have a good assortment of extensions available - I usually use a 3" on my spark plug socket and put in in the hole. Then have another 2-3" on my rachet and join the two extensions together if that makes sense. It's worse if you have a coarse socket as there isn't a lot of room to swing the rachet to loosen things up. An 80 tooth or higher socket makes things much easier - I actually like this one:

Click the image to open in full size.

Good luck. I find it easier to actually sit in the engine bay but that doesn't work for everyone.
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  #3  
Old 05-12-2011, 05:18 PM
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I did a write up on it.......do a search. You don't have to have a bunch of wobbly stuff that will just hamper your removal of those back 2.
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:29 AM
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These are some good write ups:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ark-plugs.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/45...th-photos.html

A wobble extension is a must. Also when doing number 9 and 10 (the back ones on the passenger side) be sure and tape the spark plug socket to the with one wrap of electrical tape. This ensures that they don't seperate and give you grief. I just did mine about a month ago and all the planets must have been in alignment as everything went really smooth. The info on this site is amazing.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:04 PM
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These are some good write ups:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ark-plugs.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/45...th-photos.html

A wobble extension is a must. Also when doing number 9 and 10 (the back ones on the passenger side) be sure and tape the spark plug socket to the with one wrap of electrical tape. This ensures that they don't seperate and give you grief. I just did mine about a month ago and all the planets must have been in alignment as everything went really smooth. The info on this site is amazing.
The wobbly is not a must, read my post; (the top one above) The wobbly will only make it wishy washy and not a positive feel and lessens the force.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:18 PM
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The only must have tool in this job is an inch pound torque wrench.

This is used for torquing the spark plugs...oh...dont forget the antiseize on the plug threads. Dont follow the above (especially on your 4 thread heads) and you will be asking for a ejected plug.


As for the install?

Personally...I say jack up the fuel rail and lift it high...gives you a lot of room and only takes 2 bolts to do. Plus, you can yank all the injectors and inspect them. Reinstall with some vasoline on each o-ring and it slides back together with a satisfying pop. If you use no lube, you'll wonder if the rail is all the way down.

After all the crap is outta the way, you can sail down the line. Use some dielectic grease on the plug end and harness end of the coil packs (and on the injector connectors)

People make much more of this job then it really is IMO
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Old 05-13-2011, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXv10 View Post
I did a write up on it.......do a search. You don't have to have a bunch of wobbly stuff that will just hamper your removal of those back 2.
I'm not sure I'd call a flex head rachet from Snap On a bunch of 'wobbly stuff' and the extensions are a requirement. I better go read your write up so I learn how to do something I do on a weekly basis.
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:48 PM
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I'm not sure I'd call a flex head rachet from Snap On a bunch of 'wobbly stuff' and the extensions are a requirement. I better go read your write up so I learn how to do something I do on a weekly basis.
A straight 3/8" ratchet wrench is the best to get those last 2 out because it is more direct, won't break your plug, applies more torque, and you get a positve feel of what's going on back there. It's not going to hit anything and you can soon spin the plug out by hand by the extension. Maybe all those years of bending wrenchs all day didn't teach me anything .
Snap On flap on, it's just another brand.
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:52 PM
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Guess not. To each their own.
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:56 PM
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Guess not. To each their own.
I hated snap on ratchets because they were too smooth and slippery and hard to reverse but thanks for your photo and contribution, I'm just fussy about my wrench's.
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Old 05-13-2011, 06:48 PM
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I did mine at 50K. from all the reading and doing them on an F150 of the same year I was expecting them to be a PITA. turns out they were a piece of cake! being built on the F250 platfrom there is plenty of room under the hood. I had mine done 30-40min.! with air tools. the rears are easy. don`t know why everyone says you need special tools? I needed no wobbles or special extensions.

Very easy! very straight forward. no need to remove any fuel rails or get any flexhead ratchets (although if you have one it could be a benefit).
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:34 PM
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I didn't say special extensions - just that they were needed. Oh well - guess it's just controversy night.
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXv10 View Post
I hated snap on ratchets because they were too smooth and slippery and hard to reverse but thanks for your photo and contribution, I'm just fussy about my wrench's.
Are you always this way? Seen some of your other posts but thought it was a fluke. Oh well... glad you liked the picture and hope you figure out what good tools are at some point.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:09 PM
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Are you always this way? Seen some of your other posts but thought it was a fluke. Oh well... glad you liked the picture and hope you figure out what good tools are at some point.
Always what way? Anyone that was a mechanic for years knows what a good wrench is. I hate Snap-on wrenches, they are plenty strong but read what I wrote. I never could figure out why people doubt the word of professionals. That was a rediculous statement you made above. Are you always this way? I think you should stick with changing oil and spinning lug nuts.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 1 Excursion camper View Post
I did mine at 50K. from all the reading and doing them on an F150 of the same year I was expecting them to be a PITA. turns out they were a piece of cake! being built on the F250 platfrom there is plenty of room under the hood. I had mine done 30-40min.! with air tools. the rears are easy. don`t know why everyone says you need special tools? I needed no wobbles or special extensions.

Very easy! very straight forward. no need to remove any fuel rails or get any flexhead ratchets (although if you have one it could be a benefit).
Just my point; you are better off without the flex head here.
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