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Currently looking to pick up a cheap diesel truck off local Craigslist for about $1000. Came across two trucks that I was trying to decide on, wanted to get some expert input on such matters.
Came across a 1990 F250 w/ 7.3l IDI (pretty sure it's IDI..), and a 1984 Chevy with 6.2l (i know a Chebby, hear me out.)
Currently in that whole 'college student trying to save money in the summer' thing. I've been reading up on diesel/biodiesel/WVO stuff for a few years now, and just never pulled the trigger. I'm leaning towards the Ford. But didn't know how accurate my thoughts were:
7.3l- Stronger pump, will handle the viscosity of the VO much better and not snap in half, have heard not nearly as good of mileage.
6.2l- Read that it gets better mileage, but pump is weaker (converse of the Ford), they want like $1500 for it.
This wasn't going to be a big fancy overhaul. Was going run Tank one on Dino, then tank two on VO. Figured I would install a tank heater on tank 2, and a heat exchanger under the hood to keep the viscosity down.
Would i need anything crazier than that? Thinking like Max 1500-1750 into the project.
Looking for thoughts and criticisms.
"That thing is an anti-fouler, one of the cruelest jokes ever played on owners of dying vehicles." -Ford_Six
In your climate you are asking for headaches with your planned 'VO conversion'. The 6.2 is a disposable turd - the only good thing is they are simple and cheap to replace.
Get the 7.3 and read my last post in this section - your conversion is very similar to what I described there. If you'll spend $500-1000, depending on how resourceful you are - you will have a true VO 'conversion' that will allow you to run 100% VO (after warm-up) in ANY climate. Factor in ya won't be on the side of the hwy dicking with your horribly 'improvised' modifications and you'll be waaaaay ahead of the game. Do the math - diesel is right at $4/gal right now, you only have to save 250 gallons of diesel to justify 'doing it right'!!!! How long will that take you??
I have a friend here in Tulsa where I'm working who just finished a DIY conversion on a 7.3 IDI. I haven't seen it yet, but it sounds really, really nice/well done. I'll ask how much he spent as soon as I talk to him again and may post some pics here when I get over to see it!
I always say, 'Please choose wisely - or post pics of the carnage!'.
Reasons NOT to use 2nd tank for WVO
- if the tank is steel, the VO will polymerize in the tank leaving nasty 'chicken-skin' deposits that will contaminate your whole fuel system
- the stock Pollak switching valve tends to have a short life in VO service
- by using the stock (Pollak) 6way tank switching valve, you will gradually add more and more VO to the diesel tank - every time you switch back to diesel
- sending VO that is not HOT (160*+) to the injectors will lead to carbon build-up/coking in the combustion chamber and downstream of the exhaust valves
- your factory filter does NOT LIKE WVO and will be a constant source of problems
- by putting VO and diesel thru the same filter, you insure the VO is NEVER fully flushed from the IP and injectors. The VO will polymerize and kill the IP eventually
- the VO in the diesel tank has a tendency to separate from the diesel and ends up in the bottom of the tank, right where the fuel pick-up is. You'll be starting your cold engine on cold VO (well, since ya never got all the VO out of filter - you'll be doing this anyway
I gotta go - but there are more reasons not to make this mistake!!
__________________ 2000 Excursion, Limited, 4x4, Frybrid/V3 VO system, BTS trans, Gearhead tunes, Mahle pistons, 910 springs, chromo pushrods, headstuds, AC codes, T4/S366, carpet delete and other stuff. Also, 2001 F350 CC flatbed - currently w/no engine...
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
There are none so blind as they who WILL not see, nor so deaf as they that WILL not hear. Pop-Psalm 4:44
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