cab floor repair, 56..
#16
not the little section where the seats actually bolt.. checked them first.
they sell the support UNDER the floor surface, but not the floor surface itself
and I can buy all three sections (2 front, 1 rear) and cut out the edges of each, tossing the rest.. but it seems a waste if I can't get the actual center piece.. (plus $200 + shipping seems a tad high...!)
Sam
they sell the support UNDER the floor surface, but not the floor surface itself
and I can buy all three sections (2 front, 1 rear) and cut out the edges of each, tossing the rest.. but it seems a waste if I can't get the actual center piece.. (plus $200 + shipping seems a tad high...!)
Sam
#17
Sam,
I read this thread a few days ago, so forgive me if this has been mentioned. But you might want to call Candi at Classic Haulers and ask her to talk to her sister who runs Mid-Fifty. The reason is Candi got a fabricator to make that middle/back section for the F1's when they made those toe boards we all talked about here. And her sister might have followed suit with the later model trucks.
Otherwise, I can't believe you're having that hard of a time locating what you need.
Shane
I read this thread a few days ago, so forgive me if this has been mentioned. But you might want to call Candi at Classic Haulers and ask her to talk to her sister who runs Mid-Fifty. The reason is Candi got a fabricator to make that middle/back section for the F1's when they made those toe boards we all talked about here. And her sister might have followed suit with the later model trucks.
Otherwise, I can't believe you're having that hard of a time locating what you need.
Shane
#18
here is a perfect example.. except for the distance!
1956 Ford PIckup Cab
(altho it sounds too good to cut up!)
sam
1956 Ford PIckup Cab
(altho it sounds too good to cut up!)
sam
#19
#20
Sam, I had to do this in order to move the trnsmission tunnel and get clearance for the driveshaft. I made a "repair" section for the support from 1x2x.125 tubing welded it above the floor and used triangular gussets from the same tube to tie them together. The rest of the center hump is just 18ga sheet metal with a couple of breaks for rigidity.
#21
Sam, I had to do this in order to move the trnsmission tunnel and get clearance for the driveshaft. I made a "repair" section for the support from 1x2x.125 tubing welded it above the floor and used triangular gussets from the same tube to tie them together. The rest of the center hump is just 18ga sheet metal with a couple of breaks for rigidity.
so, I'm looking for useful parts that can come to me!.. a little more money (maybe) and a little less 'fabrication'
I'd kill for a good brake, and some decent flat material.. (I asked my son in the door factory if he can get some sheets.. checking).. not many good small (~36in) 14ga brakes around tho..
Sam
#22
sent you a note, but more like this pic (but all the way across the cab floor) 7 inches in front of the hump and 7 inches behind the hump
#23
#25
#26
well, summer has been (still is) hot, but I'm gonna start on the repair this weekend..
make a cardboard template,
mark the existing floor
cut
I am planning on using panel adhesive, overlapping the sections an inch,
flange one side with my air flanger, glue, clamp with clecos, and then seam seal the joint.
as I am not cutting the entire floor out, I don't need additional bracing..
the rest of the floor is in good shape overall. one little hack to repair on the body at the top of the tranny cover
Sam
make a cardboard template,
mark the existing floor
cut
I am planning on using panel adhesive, overlapping the sections an inch,
flange one side with my air flanger, glue, clamp with clecos, and then seam seal the joint.
as I am not cutting the entire floor out, I don't need additional bracing..
the rest of the floor is in good shape overall. one little hack to repair on the body at the top of the tranny cover
Sam
#27
Sam, i bought a bottom of a cab that was cut off at the back wall and firewall. The cab was hit by a tree so i was told. I only paid 200.00 for the thing. It was nice to use because it was factory not aftermarket. Good luck!
#28
one other little patch piece to look for (gosh I wish I hadn't just thrown out the parts I cut out on the green truck when I did the new front floor section..)
the body side at the very top of the tranny hump where it connects at the firewall..
I need the top 2 inches from side to side.. from the left to right cover mount holes. circled below
Sam
the body side at the very top of the tranny hump where it connects at the firewall..
I need the top 2 inches from side to side.. from the left to right cover mount holes. circled below
Sam
#30