Who makes a good e4od
#46
Without knowing what went into your build, its hard to say for sure. A shift kit is a good idea (just stay away from electronic line pressure riser kits!). Main thing to watch out for is to make sure the transmission doesn't get too soft at the top end of each gear during the upshift. If it slides too much, it won't last very well.
The internals will simply have to hold up as best they can. Personally I would prefer to have all steel planetaries for the forward and overdrive and strengthened torque converter if running a turbo with over 10PSI (which I'm not, thanks to a weak turbo). If I were to do mine all over again, I would have also added more friction elements to the forward clutch packs (and coast clutch). I went from a 2 element to 3 element stack for 4th gear and it made for a very nice and crisp shift without having to mess with any of the related valve body stuff.
Are you opening up just for a shift kit, or opening up for a rebuild?
The internals will simply have to hold up as best they can. Personally I would prefer to have all steel planetaries for the forward and overdrive and strengthened torque converter if running a turbo with over 10PSI (which I'm not, thanks to a weak turbo). If I were to do mine all over again, I would have also added more friction elements to the forward clutch packs (and coast clutch). I went from a 2 element to 3 element stack for 4th gear and it made for a very nice and crisp shift without having to mess with any of the related valve body stuff.
Are you opening up just for a shift kit, or opening up for a rebuild?
#48
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Campbell River, B.C.
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Ya, It was a brand new 1992 transmission directly from ford, bone stock, no upgrades. I was planning on just having the shop open it up for a shift kit. I'm boosting around 13-14 and I'm adding a intercooler pretty soon so I want my transmission to be strong enough to be able to tow up to 15K trailers. I was planning on a stage 1 shift kit, should I go stage 2? The guy at the transmission shop was telling me that I am tearing up the torque converter with all the new power. Should I upgrade the TC?
I'm afraid you might be asking a bit much for a bone stock factory original 1992 trans. It might have the 4 pinion aluminum planetaries, but it won't have the roller bearing center support or many other updates.
I would agree with him 110% about the torque converter as well. Ideally an IDI like that should have a billet converter behind it.
What you have to bear in mind is the 1992 transmission was intended for a 185Hp diesel engine, while a turbo-intercooled IDI is able to produce 250 at the crank (in theory). I don't have the torque numbers on hand but those get a big boost as well.
I'm not familiar with that shift kit so I can't be sure what to advise. However the instructions should give you an idea based on what the transmission is expected to do. In the case of the Baumann kit I have, (5 independant settings for each shift), its supposed to be capable of slamming hard enough to break traction in each shift, but for best results behind a modified engine thats used for work or daily driving, the middle ground is recommended. The crazy hard shifts are best for competition where drivetrain lifespan isn't as much a concern.
If you decide to run it with nothing more than a shift kit, then I would pay very close attention to the fluid change interval and any metal you find in the pan when changing the filter. Despite what many may think, E4ODs generally don't just explode without prior warning so if you do push the transmission beyond its limits, you will likely have some signs before hand.
#49
Not sure about this, but you mean its factory original from 1992 and not a ford rebuild intended to replace a 1992, correct? - if so:
I'm afraid you might be asking a bit much for a bone stock factory original 1992 trans. It might have the 4 pinion aluminum planetaries, but it won't have the roller bearing center support or many other updates.
I would agree with him 110% about the torque converter as well. Ideally an IDI like that should have a billet converter behind it.
What you have to bear in mind is the 1992 transmission was intended for a 185Hp diesel engine, while a turbo-intercooled IDI is able to produce 250 at the crank (in theory). I don't have the torque numbers on hand but those get a big boost as well.
I'm not familiar with that shift kit so I can't be sure what to advise. However the instructions should give you an idea based on what the transmission is expected to do. In the case of the Baumann kit I have, (5 independant settings for each shift), its supposed to be capable of slamming hard enough to break traction in each shift, but for best results behind a modified engine thats used for work or daily driving, the middle ground is recommended. The crazy hard shifts are best for competition where drivetrain lifespan isn't as much a concern.
If you decide to run it with nothing more than a shift kit, then I would pay very close attention to the fluid change interval and any metal you find in the pan when changing the filter. Despite what many may think, E4ODs generally don't just explode without prior warning so if you do push the transmission beyond its limits, you will likely have some signs before hand.
I'm afraid you might be asking a bit much for a bone stock factory original 1992 trans. It might have the 4 pinion aluminum planetaries, but it won't have the roller bearing center support or many other updates.
I would agree with him 110% about the torque converter as well. Ideally an IDI like that should have a billet converter behind it.
What you have to bear in mind is the 1992 transmission was intended for a 185Hp diesel engine, while a turbo-intercooled IDI is able to produce 250 at the crank (in theory). I don't have the torque numbers on hand but those get a big boost as well.
I'm not familiar with that shift kit so I can't be sure what to advise. However the instructions should give you an idea based on what the transmission is expected to do. In the case of the Baumann kit I have, (5 independant settings for each shift), its supposed to be capable of slamming hard enough to break traction in each shift, but for best results behind a modified engine thats used for work or daily driving, the middle ground is recommended. The crazy hard shifts are best for competition where drivetrain lifespan isn't as much a concern.
If you decide to run it with nothing more than a shift kit, then I would pay very close attention to the fluid change interval and any metal you find in the pan when changing the filter. Despite what many may think, E4ODs generally don't just explode without prior warning so if you do push the transmission beyond its limits, you will likely have some signs before hand.
I'll probably just get a stage one shift kit and a upgraded TC then, any idea where I can get a billet TC?
STAGE 1. HEAVY DUTY
Firm positive shifts without loss of driver comfort for improved performance in all street vehicles. Recommended for regular passenger vehicles.
STAGE 2. STREET/STRIP
Provides positive shifts for high performance street use or for competitive events. This level is for the enthusiast who wants the hardest, quickest possible shift.
Shift Improver Kit - ~From B and M racing.
#50
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Campbell River, B.C.
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AH! ok then, forget most of what I said
If it was built recently by ford, it will have all of the minimum updates (center support, sprags, etc). Not sure about steel planetaries, but it WILL at least have a decent 4 pinion aluminum set for all three.
I would still consider putting a billet converter in now when you have it out though.
Reading ManicMike's account here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-her-legs.html
It seems stage 2 might not be out of line for what you're after.
If it was built recently by ford, it will have all of the minimum updates (center support, sprags, etc). Not sure about steel planetaries, but it WILL at least have a decent 4 pinion aluminum set for all three.
I would still consider putting a billet converter in now when you have it out though.
Reading ManicMike's account here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-her-legs.html
It seems stage 2 might not be out of line for what you're after.
#51
Yippee, thats good to know it has some ugrades. Any idea where i can get a billet torque converter? I checked B and M but they dont have a diesel one.
Ya, I remember mike saying he put a 2 stage on, but he said he didnt really have hills and thats all i have around here. If there is alot of stress on the tranny, will it really slam hard? I dont want to be rebuilding my rear end anytime soon, lol.
Ya, I remember mike saying he put a 2 stage on, but he said he didnt really have hills and thats all i have around here. If there is alot of stress on the tranny, will it really slam hard? I dont want to be rebuilding my rear end anytime soon, lol.
#52
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Location: Campbell River, B.C.
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Bought my TC from Island torque converter in victoria, BC (about a 3.4 hour drive away). It was something like $740 CAD after taxes (back then it would have probably converted to ~$600USD).
I've seen billet converters for as little as $350 on Ebay but I have no way of knowing how good they are.
PATC has them in the $600 range but I have no personal experience with them.
I've seen billet converters for as little as $350 on Ebay but I have no way of knowing how good they are.
PATC has them in the $600 range but I have no personal experience with them.
#53
This looks good, sure is pricey.
3023104 - ATS Diesel
This looks great too.
http://www.gillettdiesel.com/torquec...rd1030225.aspx
3023104 - ATS Diesel
This looks great too.
http://www.gillettdiesel.com/torquec...rd1030225.aspx
#54
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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This looks good, sure is pricey.
3023104 - ATS Diesel
This looks great too.
Torque Converter 1989-1994 E4OD 4-Stud 7.3L IDI-Ford
3023104 - ATS Diesel
This looks great too.
Torque Converter 1989-1994 E4OD 4-Stud 7.3L IDI-Ford
#55
I like this one better- its cheaper JKJK, that one looks great, what about this BD one? It has a great warantee.
Edit: I posted the same TC twice.
Edit: I posted the same TC twice.
#56
Ford E4OD 4R100 4 Studs Heavy Duty Torque Converter | eBay
I have that one in the truck, work's fantastic. Lockup is firm and the price was right too.
I have that one in the truck, work's fantastic. Lockup is firm and the price was right too.
#57
Yippee, thats good to know it has some ugrades. Any idea where i can get a billet torque converter? I checked B and M but they dont have a diesel one.
Ya, I remember mike saying he put a 2 stage on, but he said he didnt really have hills and thats all i have around here. If there is alot of stress on the tranny, will it really slam hard? I dont want to be rebuilding my rear end anytime soon, lol.
Ya, I remember mike saying he put a 2 stage on, but he said he didnt really have hills and thats all i have around here. If there is alot of stress on the tranny, will it really slam hard? I dont want to be rebuilding my rear end anytime soon, lol.
So I say stage 2
#59
20 degree's or 20%? 20 Degree's is around 40%.. which is hell of a hill (40 feet vertical for every 100 feet horizontal). I think that hill was closer to a 10% grade for a good 5 miles. It wasn't hard, luckily I had the trans upside down (pan facing up, instead of down) so when I pulled the valvebody apart none of the check ***** moved.
#60
I guess I meant around 20%, one hill is over 25%, they get pretty steep. I'll probably just end up having the transmission shop do the whole thing, unless labor is too much, then I will figure out how to do it, haha, motivation. Does the transmission have to be removed to install the shift kit? I know I have to drop the transmission for the TC, I just unbolt it from the flywheel, unbolt the bell housing from the engine, drop the transmission, slide the old TC off and the new TC on and put it back up, right?