Front Sheetmetal Bolt Kits?
#1
Front Sheetmetal Bolt Kits?
Just pulled the front clip off my 65 F250. Just about every J nut/clip on it broke. (Loved dealing with the upper rear fender one that broke, and just spun after about 4 turns) Thats after soaking everything for about 4 days, with repeated soakings daily. My question is: Does anyone know of a good place to buy all the Clips/ Nuts/ Bolts? I'd like to replace all fasteners with Factory types. Do kits exist? Who's the best supplier, even if I have to buy the different types separately? And what do you actually call those J-Nuts/Clips?
#2
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#4
Im in a similar situation. I broke a bunch of nuts and bolts as I took apart my front end. You may want to try McMaster Carr for hardware. Ive found that the local hardware store is going to kill you on price. Not truck related, but I priced 1/4 drive belt for my Ariens snowblower last summer at the local Ace Hardware, they wanted $28. I bought the correct Gates replacement belt from McMaster Carr for $4.
Im not exactly sure of which nut is apprpriate for fenders yet, but Im thinking something like these links:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
I always say if you cant find it at McMaster Carr, you probably dont need it.
Im not exactly sure of which nut is apprpriate for fenders yet, but Im thinking something like these links:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
I always say if you cant find it at McMaster Carr, you probably dont need it.
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#8
Like Garbz I use Stainless
These guys also have lots of good stuff
Auveco Nuts: Tubular, Flat, J, & U Assortment - 148 Pieces [6815] - $43.22 : NutsandBolts.com
Have fun
These guys also have lots of good stuff
Auveco Nuts: Tubular, Flat, J, & U Assortment - 148 Pieces [6815] - $43.22 : NutsandBolts.com
Have fun
#9
Insurance against crappy "J" nuts
G'day mate.
I had similar problems with my old girl as well. Fortunately, not too many.
Anyway, regardless of whether you use stainless of not, might I suggest you coat them when you've completed the rebuild.
I used a product called Penetrol.
http://www.floodaustralia.net/brochu...l-brochure.pdf
I've used this stuff for years and it works a treat. It's even good for coating electrical plugs and switches that have some weather/dirt exposure. The spray can is the most convenient.
It takes about 24 hrs to dry, but during that time, it really penetrates the fittings, panel joints etc., then drys to a tough, clear finish.
I mostly use it when I've finished rebuilding sections and mostly where you can't see areas like under the guards/fenders, behind panel joints, grills, headlights etc.
I hope you fellas can get this stuff over there. I thoroughly recommend it.
Cheers, Ron.
I had similar problems with my old girl as well. Fortunately, not too many.
Anyway, regardless of whether you use stainless of not, might I suggest you coat them when you've completed the rebuild.
I used a product called Penetrol.
http://www.floodaustralia.net/brochu...l-brochure.pdf
I've used this stuff for years and it works a treat. It's even good for coating electrical plugs and switches that have some weather/dirt exposure. The spray can is the most convenient.
It takes about 24 hrs to dry, but during that time, it really penetrates the fittings, panel joints etc., then drys to a tough, clear finish.
I mostly use it when I've finished rebuilding sections and mostly where you can't see areas like under the guards/fenders, behind panel joints, grills, headlights etc.
I hope you fellas can get this stuff over there. I thoroughly recommend it.
Cheers, Ron.
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Scott Stewart
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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06-08-2023 11:39 AM